Before I left for work this morning, I make my usual round through my model room in the basement. There sitting in the morning sun are two completed Thunderbolts and all the 1:48 WWII birds and a new F14 I completed in 1:72. Sitting there on the bench, assembled and waiting for airbrushing are a 1:48 Tamiya birdcage Corsair, a 1:48 Messerschmidt, a 1:72 F18 and now an almost assembled Academy B24. Oh the B24. As I ponder the color possibilities from easy on the corsair to a challenge on the Messerschmidt back to easy on the B24, I try to ignore those canopies. Oh, the masking on that birdcage, the curves on that F18, the messerschmidt, did I mention that canopy? Finally, that B24 with all that clear plastic. Somebody help!!! I hate masking canopies. I have tried the liquid mask and can’t figure it out. Somebody please expolain this liquid mask to me. When to do apply it and so forth. Please let me finish these so I can move on to my 1:700 waterline Hornet.
The only mask that works for me is scotch magic tape - the green one.
I de- tack it on my forehead or the palm of my hand then cut about 3mm of
straight strips to line the canopy frame, then just fill in the rest with the uneven
bits.
Burnish the tape with your fingernail and spray away.
The small strips go around curves nicely and if you fold over a little bit of tape on the overlaps removal is sooooooo much easier .
Another trick a friend of mine uses also uses the tape strips ,but the remaining area is covered with liquid mask.
A lot faster but doesnt always work.
You might want to try sticking on some pre-painted, thin strips of masking tape (or a similar tape) onto the framework. Saves painting them all and all that aggravation…! I personally only use paitbrushes for this work (and my trusty cocktail sticks to scrape off excess, dried-up, paint… But the tape system works wonder.
I’ve used Cutting Edge masks with success on 1/48 scale stuff.
Do a search on the forums for “bare metal foil”. There’s lots of talk about using it for canopy masking — lots of success stories.
I use the the bare metal foil masking technique most of the time when painting canopies. It is far thinner than regular masking tape and allows you to see the full detail of the canopy frame for easy trimming. When properly burnished and trimmed, there is very little risk of paint bleed and the frames come out crisp and accurate (well at least as accurate as the molded frames on the canopy).
I have used the liquid mask before and I just use about a 3/0 paintbrush to apply it. It works really well but you do have to have a steady hand to apply it. Or you can slop it on and go back and trim with a sharp knife which of course you have to have a real steady hand or you slice your canopy. I generally try to be real careful applying with the paint brush.
I will get a heavy load on the brush and, gently at first because it’s a big drop on the end, slowly “paint” it along the frames. The raised frames on most canopies will keep it from getting on the frame itself and you can “push” it into the corners with the fine brush after most of the mask is layed on. It’s actually pretty easy with just a liitle practice. If you mess up too bad, most are water soluable so rise it off before it cures and start over. It peels right off after it’s cured, but if you lay it on too thin it can be hard to remove. I get mine thin right next to the frame but after I get one section outlined I’ll load up the center pretty good and get it heavy close to the frame. That makes removing it easier. I will pull up the center, work to one frame and then try to pull along the frame to get a better seperation. You can wait quite a while and still get a clean break if your paint isn’t too thick so it gives you a couple days or so for weathering before you have to worry about removing it.
I hope this helps if you decide to keep using it!
Eric
Do a little bit at a time. I’m not sure about you, but I don’t often get extended time to sit at the bench. 10 or 15 minutes would be a good session for me. (Every couple of weeks or so I find an afternoon to sit down.) I too have things that I struggle with (canopies, decals, detail painting, etc) and I’ve found that the best thing to do is very small bits at a time. I’ll sit down and set a goal to mask off ONE section of a canopy. I take my time and after it’s done I set it aside. Next day, I do the same thing. Eventually the whole thing is done and I can paint. I do a MUCH better job this way and I don’t tend to ‘rush’ through the important prep. stuff.
Works for me! (although I don’t really have any evidence to show for it…)
Murray
I’ve used MicroMask for years, applying it just like Eric. I like it a lot better than trying to trim tape or something to fir inside the frames.
I also use liquid mask. Only real difficulty I’ve seen is if the model canopy has an uneven surface, or texture to it. Almost a grain, really. Some of the “cheaper” manufacturers produce clear parts that aren’t exactly “smooth.” Watch out for them… Other than that, I’ve had no problems using the same application techniques as above.
demono69
The most consistently reliable method for me has been:
1- Dip or paint the canopy with Future Acrylic Floor Polish after trimming and polishing edges.
2- Mask with the Blue 3M low tack painter’s tape, using smaller pieces to cover everything. Always use a freshly cut edge. The edges on the roll can get banged up or bent, so use a straight-edge and a sharp knife to cut pieces.
3- After masking, but before spraying the color, spray Future on the masked canopy. This will seal the edges, and any leakage will be Future, same as the canopy. After the edges are sealed, let the Future dry overnight (or at least a good while) and your paint can’t run under loose edges. Works for hard edges on camoflage (never can spell that word, too lazy to look up) also, keeping paint from running under mask.
4- After decaling, sealing, weathering, and final clear coat of your choice, the mask comes off easily.
I have never had much luck with liquid masks, feeling a lack of control for the sharp edges. I used to hate masking, but a lot of that was that I worked so hard, then had to clean up the plastic after painting. Now, it comes off clean, and the shiny canopy makes it all worth while. The blue tape can also stay on longer than some other kinds without leaving residue, so modeling when I can find the time doesn’t leave such a sticky mess.
PS:This is my first post, so I thought I would add an image of a favorite kit from my collection.
I have never been good at complex canopy frames and used to mask and paint only one or two frames, then remask and paint another few frames until done. More recently, I used Elmers glue brushed onto the rear cockpit windows of my 1/72 F-6F5 Hellcat. It pulled up easily after painting. I will try this on framed canopies next.
You have a real beauty there! I have always wanted to add one of those to my collection. Are you a collector?
Hi Woody,
I enjoy everything about plastic, especially planes, but also cars, monsters, ships, dinosaurs, etc. I have built a few hundred kits and have collected a couple of thousand.
Here’s my last built model, an Accurate Miniatures B-25 gunship:
Here are my favorite collectibles:
Here’s some of my unbuilt kits:
I had looked for a Rapier for about 10 years before finally finding this one, which is really mint in the box. Since I had never actually seen one before this one, I expected to settle for a less than perfect one, but got really lucky at a great price. I guess perseverance pays off, sometimes even on eBay!
**Thanks to RonUSMC for hosting these pictures!
http://rongeorge.com/modules/Gallery/workshops
Gerald
You are living in model heaven! I have an insane amount of kits also but they are not displayed as nicely as yours. Still drooling over that Rapier and the Vertijet! You should spend some time over at http://www.scalehobby.com/forum/index.php They are just starting out but allow trading. My main interest is in experimental fighters so you can see why your post is so exciting to me. You don’t happen to be a KCCer do you?
I hate masking too!! When I don’t use Eduard masks here’s what i do: I build the mask with paper, so i can try it many times and adjust it after each try. When it fits well i attack it on a bi-adesive paper and cut around it, then use the bi-adesive as mask. It works very well
Just my 2 cents
Giulio
Nice B-25! Hey! All those unbuilt kits looks familiar! I wonder if someone would come out with “wallpaper” that looked like model kits stacked from floor to ceiling if it would sell! Slip in all those rare old kits to drool over!
There is only one thing I have to say about Canopies and masking.
Parafilm M
I have absolutely no fear of masking any canopy any time because I use Parafilm. Its amazing.
This is a 1.48 Little Bird… it is VERY small, but the canopy comes out like a champ because of Parafilm.
Hey have you tried bare metal foil woork like a charm. By the way thats one hell of a model line up you got there NSclcctl. Hey gbarnes you have to many models howabout sharing some.
The Parafilm M I’ve got…And I have the same tape for 2 years! I dont like it. The reason why? If it screwed up… Then you have do it ALL OVER! I had that before…More than once! [B)] Especially that damned Luftwaffe! 
pardon my stupidity. Put parafilm on the canopy, stretch, then cut around the parts to be painted? What stops the parafilm from pulling up as you are cutting with an exacto? I am confused. Same thing with liquid mask. Glob it on the whole canopy then peel off only the area to be painted, the ribs of the canopy. People keep saying things but a etailed explanation would help. Thanks guys. Still irritated with canopies. What are the Eduoard canopy molds?