I am just starting into painting models, and i have a couple of question about acrylic paints. I was wondering about weathering with them, i have read about weathering with enamel paints and using sludge wash. Is there any info on weather and sludge washing with acrylic paints. I thank you all for your help ahead of time.[sigh]
It is generally best to weather with the paint you don’t use for the base coat, the exception being dry brushing, which can be done regardless of paint system.
That being said, I think it is easier to use acrylics for washes over acrylics than it is to use enamels over enamels, or oils over enamels. This is because most acrylic washes can be made with water as the solvent, and water is not as aggressive as organic solvents.
If you want to use same over same, a barrier coat of the “opposite” paint system is a good idea. That is, put an enamel or lacquer clear coat over acylics before weathering with acrylics, or an acrylic clear coat over enamels before weathering with enamels or oils.
I have done acrylic washes over acrylic paint, but I used a Future coat as a barrier. Future is relatively insoluble in plain water, but nevertheless, the technique is difficult for a beginner.
Hope this helps. Try it different ways and see what works best for you.
I agree with Ross in that it is BEST to use a different type of paint for the wash, however with that said I never do. What I always do is a complete no-no for acrylics.
The vast bulk of my painting is with acrylics (probably 90%). I then spray a clear coat of Future over that (acrylic over acrylic) and use artist’s acrylics for my washes (acrylic over acrylic over acrylic). To clean up the wash that spreads out of where I want it to go I use Q-Tips moistened with Windex.
Most people will say that you absolutely cannot use Windex on acrylic base paint. Regardless, I do it on every one I build. As long as it is done carefully I have never had any problems.
I have found enamel paint and mineral spirits work well for me mixed at about 85 to 90% spirits. The mineral spirits don’t touch Future. Put as much or as little on as you want. Let it dry and remove the excess with a cotton swab dipped in mineral spirits or wipe it immediatly. I found paint thinners and the like would bite into the Future after 10 seconds. Don’t know why mineral spirits don’t. I do all my painting with acrylics.
double post
thanks for your info and help
Scott, you have officially been proclaimed “Mr. Micrometer Fingers.” I’ve used your technique. Are you perchance an opthalmalic surgeon in your other life? [:D]
Max, Some “paint thinners” contain blends of various solvents. The idea being that something in the mix will dissolve whatever they encounter. In the case of acrylics, probably ethyl or methyl alcohol, or naptha. Mineral spirits is relatively mild, miscible with most other organic solvents, and completely immiscible with aqueous systems. There is no molecular affinity with most acrylic resins, so it just runs off.
Naptha, sometimes called “white gas” or “white spirits” (Don’t you just love the technical relics of the 18th century?) is another matter, and will attack acrylics. The term “white spirits” is used for another, chemically different solvent that will also attack acrylics.
Been around the modeling block a time or ten and my first success at a paint wash was in 1983. A sludge wash is an excellent way to ruin a paint job and your decals, too. At best, despite what others say, it’s risky with whatever paints you use. You are applying a coat of paint ot your entire model and taking the leap of faith that you can get the excess off at the ideal curing time that will allow the paintto stay where you want it and not fully discolor the base.
I’ve found the much better way is to apply your wash where you want it with a fine tipped brush. Dab, do not drag, the brush at the intersectio of panel lines and at the base of raised surfaces. Capillary action willpull the paint along and increase detail. If you do miss the edge of the panel line, a quick dab with an absorbant cloth will clean up the excess.
Uisng theis method, I’ve used enamel over enamel with never a problem as long as the base is cured.
Hee, hee … Nope just a designer for an engineering company. I did say that what I do with washes is a complete no-no for acrylics, but it works for me and I like it 