Newbie modeler. I’ve already applied a future coat but decided the canope looks like crap. I have the open cockpit canope still since this model came with both sets. I can pop the other canope off with no problem, but I was wondering if it would look bad if I tried to remask, put it back on and try and paint it again. Should I just live with what I got, put the new one on and mask it and paint it, or should I mask and paint the canope seperate and then put it on?
Another question, should I have put the future on while the canope is still masked or after pealing off the mask.
For some background on this question, I tried the bare metal foil method of masking the canope. I was severely handicaped while doing so and it looked like crap. It worked really well but when you have a combination of lots of beer, low light conditions and black bare metal foil, you can’t expect much. The only thing I did have right was a brand new no. 11 blade to work with. It made some damn nice cuts across the windows, I’ll tell ya what. Anyway, I went out and bought one of those magnifying glass lamp light things so I want to make a more sober try this time.
If I had a nickle for every model I’ve had to just chalk up to experience, I’d be a wealthy man right now! [B)]
There are two combinations you mentioned in your post that spell trouble: Beer & No. 11 Blade. Believe me, Arterial Red makes canopies look like crap too! (not to mention your fingers!)
As far as the Future goes, I’m not sure you can remove that from a clear piece without glazing it beyond use. If it were me, I would let the canopy dry really really good, and vacuform a new one, using the bad one as the mold. It’s not a hard thing to do as long as you do it before too many beers.
Here’s what you’ll need:
(1) One piece of clear plastic approx. 4" x 4" (top of a greeting card box)
(2) A Candle
(3) Little ball of molding clay
(4) Wooden kitchen match stick (one of those 2" long matches)
(5) Piece of #0000 Steel Wool
(6) Fine point Sharpie Permanent Marker
Then you…
(a) Use the steel wool to completely smooth out any lumps or dried dust fibers on the canopy you messed up.
(b) Put a ball of clay on your desk and stick one of the matches in the center of it, sticking straight up.
(c) Put the other ball of clay inside the canopy, and place it on the end of the match stick that’s sticking out of the clayball on your work desk.
(d) Set your candle on your desk about halfway between you and the old canopy, and light it.
(e) Now take the 4"x4" piece of plastic and hold it on each side.
(f) Now hold it about 3" over the flame, moving the piece around in a circular fashion, until the center of the plastic begins to sag.
(g) IMMEDIATELY lay the sagged clear plastic on top of the old canopy until a perfect duplicate is made. DON’T press it down too hard, or the upper surface will be too thin to work with
(h) Before removing the plastic from the mold, use your Sharpie to trace the CUTTING line, using the old canopy as your guide.
(i) Remove your new canopy from the old canopy mold, and carefully trim along the cutting line…
Walla… new canopy!! [;)]
Hope this helps… Oh yeah… I never ran Future through my airbrush, so I can’t help you with that. I’ve always dipped my clear pieces in a paper cup full of Future, then let them dry under an upside down glass to prevent dust settling on it while it’s wet.
A mixture of 2 parts distilled water, 1 part Windex and 1 part Simple Green works great. If you don’t have all of these then you can use just windex, or rubbing alcohol, or even mineral spirits or lacquer thinner if you want, it’s up to you.
You can remove Future from clear canopies–with toothpaste as a polish. Buff it with a cotton ball, q-tip or piece of old tee-shirt. It is not an easy task, though.