Hello All,
I have a car kit that said to put the decals onto the rear window,but the film still shows,so I was wondering wether or not I can use one of Testors Lacquer clearcoats,such as glosscote,for clear parts such as windows?
I’d recommend something else such as Future as opposed to a rattle can gloss coat. One other suggestion is to trim the decal carrier film as close as possible to the markings before dipping it into the water.
Instant and permanent look of a sand blasted window if you use GlossCote or DullCote.
Agree with Stikpusher, use Future.
Yes I have heard of Future,but the problem is I don’t have an airbrush…
Future levels out very well on its own. A brush is fine if you don’t have an airbrush, just use it straight and in light coats.
Holding the part by a corner thats not clear, like the frame; touch the other corner to a piece of paper towel to wick off excess, and avoid bubbles. I much prefer that to airbrushing Future, something I don’t like to do.
Also not sure if that will solve your problem. If the decal is “silvered”, it’s a bigger issue.
Bill
Future is best applied to clear parts by dipping or by brush. Airbrushing it usually doesn’t go well for clear parts, so no need for an airbrush to apply it. Like Straycat said, definitely don’t use either Testors clear coat on clear plastic. They’re both lacquers and they will permanently craze the clear plastic.
I’ve dipped & hand brushed Future on clear parts. I also airbrushed Future through my airbrush with zero issues as well. Check out this kit I recently finished. Yes, I airbrushed it with Future…
True with Dullcoat, not true with Glosscoat. I have often coated transparencies with Spray Glosscoat.
Just to be…clear, too, the product is now called “Johnson’s Pledge with FUTURE Shine”, in case you have to go looking for it. But we all still call it Future, since that’s what it was for years.
I use it for transparancies, like windshields or airplane canopies by dipping. For gloss-coating before decaling, I usually brush it on, which works just fine. I have used the airbrush to apply it, though, too. I have brushed it unthinned, and also thinned 50/50 with water, just to see. In the end, it’s easier to clean a brush after applying it.
If you get drips that cure, you can just take a little dilute ammonia solution (like Windex) and apply it to the drip with a brush or a cotton swab (mindful of not getting fibers in the finish). That will dissolve it, and you can wipe away excess as necessary, and just let it dry and cure again.