Can anything ELSE substitute the rubber ring between airbrush body and head??

i’m asking this because i use enamels/lacquers a lot, and wear out 3-5 rings a year and they are costly to replace at around $12 a piece!

Anyone know of alternatives that can do the same job? I tried once going without the ring and paint just won’t spray…

Airbrush brand?

I have a couple Badgers which do not feature an o-ring at the spray head, although I have seen brushes which do

perhaps some Teflon plumbing seal tape (a hardware store item) could be useful. I use it on the threaded connections between the compressor and brush inlet

Teflon is definitely your best bet spraying enamels and lacquers.

If all you spray are acrylics…for my old O-ring airbrush, I used to punch discs out of one of those rubber mats stores used to give away as ‘grippers’ to open jars and such. A lifetime supply…until I switched airbrush models.

All my Badgers have a Teflon O-ring that is relatively stable in even lacquer thinner. Mine last about three years or so. Has Badger started using rubber for that?

You could always get an external mix airbrush like a Paasche H. None of the rubber seals on those come into direct contact with paint, and aren’t critical to their operation. The needle cones have a teflon packing inside them, and I haven’t had any of those go bad, even though I clean my airbrush parts in MEK in an ultrasonic cleaner between every painting session. The chrome on those parts gives up before anything else does, and a whole new needle/cone assembly costs about 6 bucks. I get about 5 or 6 years out of them.

I’ve heard of people using beeswax for this, but I’ve never tried it myself. I’d imagine even a small block of wax would last a long time although, obviously, it would need to bee (sorry![:)]) replaced each time the tool was cleaned.

As mentioned, bees wax. You just pack some in around the threads and mating surface and screw it together. Also as mentioned It will go away on tear down and cleaning. I’ve actually used fly tying dubbing compound which is a blend of bees wax and some other soft waxes, works fine.

Depends on the make & model of airbrush…

Also the rubber ‘o’ ring is essential for spacing, over-tighten & you risk the threads, tip and headset.

You may get some milage in buying a box of mixed sizes of ‘o’ rings from plumbers’ supplies.

This would give you the sizes, (after all, they must exist for the mfrs to use), but these tend to be rare in the sizes we want.

I have used PTFE tape, untill I was advised against it by the Iawata service technician, but I do use Berts Bees* lip salve, minty fresh!

*Other vendors are available, look for a high beeswax content.

Hi;

Rare place to find “O”" rings for modelers. A Medical Supply store. Talk to the person waiting on you and ask to speak to a service technician. They will understand what you want and can help you, IF that location does re-furbishing and repairs on Oxygen and C-Pap equipment!

Just remember Mil Spec MS28775. You should be able to find any o-ring size you need using that as your base part number. I have primarily used MS28775-005 and MS28775-006 on altimeter baro shaft seals. Airbrush orifices and fittings should be pretty close to those sizes. [H]

There is no requirement for mfgs of civil products to use mil specs, and close may not be close enough. It is not hard to get mfgs replacement rings. I got my last badger teflon o-rings from Amazon.

I didn’t say there was a requirement. Not sure where you got that from. Just trying to help the OP with readily-available alternatives (which is what he asked for)…and MS28775 o-rings are MUCH CHEAPER than $12.00 a piece like the o-rings the OP mentioned.

Hello!
I’ve sucessefully replaced the teflon seal on my Badger’s heads (old 100 and 150) with rubber stock. From normal water seal rubber orings.
Drill a hole for the head threads and cut the new oring out to size with a blade.
I’ve since created the habit of storing said airbrushes with heads slightly unscrewed to relief pressure on the rubber.
Also, once tried teflon tape on the head threads and that was a nightmare to cleanup from such fine a thread. It was a mess!