I keep reading that you should apply a final flat or dull overcoat to seal in weathering and decals. But I never see anyone recommend any particular brand.
I’ve used testors dullcote in the past and have had mediocre results at best when sprayed over future. I even had an instance when the dullcote ate through the future and the paint underneath.
There are 2 that I use (learned about both of 'em here). Future cut with Tamiya Flat Base at about a 2:1 ratio works very well for me, and the beauty is that you can adjust the ratio to acheive different lustres, so it’s a very versitile formula. Polyscale flat finish also works well. Some modelers get great results spraying it right out of the bottle, but I always cut mine with a little distilled water. Hope this helps.
I’m a big fan of PolyScale acrylic flat finish. It goes on smooth (with brush or airbrush), dries almost instantly, and always seems to dry nice and flat. I’ve had problems with other, solvent-based brands either refusing to dry or drying with varying gloss when applied to different surfaces. But I’ve never had any problems with PolyScale. Even when applied (carefully) with a brush, it dries in a minute or two to virtual invisibility.
I’ll see if I can find the PolyScale anywhere. LHSs are far few between in my part of the universe. Closest we have is a Michael’s. We have a tiny, itty bitty R/C shop that occassionaly dabbles in modeling equipment, but he’s a heck of a drive and really doesn’t carry much in the way of non-R/C supplies.
For the Future/flat base, is it 2:1 future:flat or flat:future?
I’ve used both PollyScale and Model Master Acryl clear flats to good effect over Future with no problems. PollyScale can be hard to find but MM Acryl is usually more widely available.
Gigatron - It might have something to do with the way your applying it, also; I had problems with MM Dullcote until I learned how to apply it properly. You’re not supposed to put it on to the point where your model actually looks “wet”, you’re suppposed to apply just enough to “dust it”, not soak it. Just a real quick, even “dust” coat is all you need; any more and it won’t dry flat, it’ll dry more of a semi-gloss. This might also solve your problem of it eating through the Future, it should dry before it does that. Good luck!
I generally use anywhere from a 4 to 1 up to a 8 to 1 ratio of Future mixed with Tamiya Flat Base depending on how flat I want the finish to be, with excellent results every time. [:)]
Although I have heard nothing but praise for Pollyscale’s flat, my local hobby shop doesn’t carry it so I use the Future/Tamiya Flat Base mixture and have been quite happy with it. I mix it in a ratio of 4 parts Future to 1 part Flat Base. I would be hesitant to use a 2:1 mixture for fear of getting the dreaded “white frost” effect.
Use the Future cut with Tamiya Flat, and crank your air pressure up.
When I want it DEAD flat I shoot HIGH pressure (above 60PSI). It comes out DEAD flat but you have to be careful of areas like wingroots that can cause severe turbulence and bounce the stuff back and settle later.
What you want is enough air pressure to get the particles that make the flat paint “flat” to stand up and reflect less light, just as sandpaper grit is attached at angles to the carrier sheet. Being slightly thinned at higher pressure does just this. Dont do this over pastels tho, it just kills theeffect of pastels.