So im a little ( really - a lot) out of practice… I primed with Stynlrez and a hour or so later, taped off. I was thinking you could tape soon INSTEAD of just sprayig… EDIT: Got the 2 mixed up. I know this primer can be sprayed over a short time after applying and got that procedure mixed up with taping and spraying. This time after applying, I forgot, and taped an hour or so before spraying the bottom.
See result. So - Question - woudl you re-prime the grey area or just waiti for it to dry up some more and just shoot the black? FWIW, probably no diffeence - its OLD plastic.
I’m with Keavdog…strip it and start over. You’ll actually save time in the end by doing that. I don’t have any experience with stripping Stynylrez, but I use isopropyl alcohol to strip everything else I have painted or primed with. It works quickly and doesn’t hurt the plastic/resin underneath.
I think its pretty obvious as well that it needs stripping and doing over. But I’m curious about a couple things concerning prep, that you don’t repeat whats happened already.
Could you describe your surface prep before priming ? Have you washed the hull, any scuffing of that old plastic ?
And did you mix the Stynylrez by hand stirring or power mixing before use ? Just shaking is often not enough with this primer, so the good stuff of the primer is left sitting on the bottom.
Once you get the old primer stripped remove any residues or oils with a good wipe down of alcohol. Then prime it. I usually let all paints and primers set overnight just to be safe they are dry. Another good rule of thumb is to make sure the tape you are using is low tack. Tamiya tape and blue painters tape works good, just stick them to your arm or hand before applying them to remove some of the sticky so they are less likely to pull paint up when removed. When pulling the tape, go slow and pull back against the direction of the tape 180 deg. If you pull 90 deg you are far more likely to pull paint up. Take your time and work slow and you should get great results.
I’ve found that Stynlrez Gray is one of the hardest paints/primers to remove once it sets. It laughs at alcohol and “purple industrial cleaners.” I usually have to go to EZ Off oven cleaner to remove it.
I have a love/hate relationship with Stynlrez, but mostly I hate it. I’ve got to throw-in with MJY65. Shed yourself of Stynlrez and go to something like Mr. Surfacer. Much easier to apply and you’ll be a happier modeler.
shoot with Stynylrez that was mixed and shaken by hand and stirrer over a number of days as it hasn’t been used in a long time. Not thinned and applied by directions on bottle.
let sit a few hours then taped and primed. Here’s the mistake as mentioned above - got my taping drying time mixed with just spraying over time…
BUT - this may have contributed too as I remember this happening before. I used Tamiya yellow tape. I did dull the sticky of the tape before applying by pressing it to my pants after I had cut my taping edge with exacto.
i seem to remember having an issue with this tape before with peeling. Like it’s too sticky. I’m sure my lack of cure time is the most like contributor here though. But , I’ve now put the tamiya in a baggie marked “do Not use for painting” and have gone back to purple and blue painters tape.
After stripping I’d scuff the entire hull with micro mesh or 000 steel wool personally, only because you’ve already had bond issues, not because Stynylrez generally needs it. And I’d power mix that bottle of separated Stynylrez, that stuff is about impossible to get all/fully/100% back together again by hand. But a power mixing will do it in about two minutes. I’d also change from the alcohol wipe down to mineral spirits, some of us here have seen some inconsistencies in the finish of Stynylrez when doing an alcohol wipe down… Don’t know why but we have seen a kind of motor oil on water look to the finish when usin alcohol wipe. It doesn’t matter if it makes no sense, it’s just there and isn’t when using mineral spirits. Could be our particular environments, who knows but it doesn’t matter.
Just for the record and I’m not endorsing it’s use but I’ve used detacked blue painters tape with stynylrez and not had it lift at all, never mind as yours did. I normally use low tack modeler tape.
Will do. Tks! Have been traveling since I posted this - so the primer is probably cement now and the bottom paint is I’m sure cured! Tempted to tape and do 2 coats of black to cover up the peeled primer or just re-spray primer over the pulled spots then black. Not sure I’m up for tangling with the strip and re-do.
Stynylrez does sand well if you want to try and feather sand the edges of those spots, then spot prime it back in. The question we don’t know the answer to yet is is there a better bond now with some curing time ? I mean one has to wonder how good the bond is under that entire paint job. You’ll need to tape the red off, is that going to lift is another question ? Course its easy enough to answer, just tape and peel. Remember you need to build on that surface and the kit itself yet.
I remember the first time I stripped something. It sounds like such a fuss and I kept putting it off, but there is really nothing to it and the whole process is a lot easier than trying to fix the problem and paint over it.
Just my [2cnts] in case you ever run into something like this again.
Since I make lots of bonehead mistakes, I strip paint quite a bit. [proplr]
That is a REVELL ship, is it not? Strip, Sand and start over. I have found thet the styrene used by Revell is semiglossy harder finished plastic!. Scuf completey with 600 grit Wet Sandpaper after stripping. Try not to not miss a spot!
now I’m curious. In general you mean why the bond my not be good ( as in not a good primer? ) ? Or based on how I prepped and applied ? I’ve always read that stynylerz can be painted over in short time…
