Building USMC M1A1 with Plow Predicament - Advice Please

Modeling Subjects Armor
1

Hi all

I have both USMC decal sheets from Echelon for the M1A1, 3x unbuilt Tamiya M1A2 kit and USMC specific parts left over from my first Tamiya M1A2 (built A2 version).

The Tamiya kits have MCD,correct smoke grenade launcher so all that is needed is the USMC BRE - suppose Eduard is the best option?

As for the plow, only options are:
Tamiya M1A1 w/Plow
Trumpeter M1A1 w/Plow
Trumpeter M1 Panther (comes with roller and plow)
Order Sprue E of Tamiya kit (if possible still)

Which of the above has the best fitting/looking plow parts?

My other problem is what to do with the rest of the kit once I steal the plow?
With the AIM and SEP from Dragon now available and my existing M1A2s, would I actually build the older M1A1s? Can’t really salvage the parts either since newer options are around.

As of for the M1 Panther - Dragons is far better from all the reviews I’ve seen, so doubt I would build it.

If I go with the sprue E option, then I would need the vinyl tubing and chains from somwhere else, any ideas?

Ideally I want to build 2x USMC Plow tanks, “Hard Lighter” and “Nightmares Witness” meaning I would need 2 Plows

Does the AIM, SEP or even M1 Panther II have “spare” chains and vinyl tubing at all once completed?

Just looking for advice on the most cost effective approach

Thx

2

The Tamiya plow is still the best. Dragon’s is a close second to it. Dragon used to have a separate plow kit under their Quartermaster series, I believe it is OOP though. You may still be able to find it on eBay. Chain can be found in the model railroad section or in the jewelry making section of your local craft store. Tubing can be found at the craft store in the jewelry section as well.

My theory is that you can never have too many M1s. The older kits can still be built into nice M1s, with a little more work. Plus, $10-$15 (going rate for an older Dragon M1 on trade boards) is a pretty fair price for the plow and tank.

Good luck.

3

lol, my wife might beg to differ. Tried to explain that there is a difference between A1 and A2 and all the different paint schemes etc. Just got one of those “sure” looks.

Thanks for the info Gino.

Am I correct that adding the Eduard BRE should cover most of the obvious requirements for USMC M1A1?

Thanks again

4

My wife says the same when she looks at the stack(s) of unbuilt models I have too.

For a USMC M1A1HC, here are the additions or changes to make to a standard (Army) M1A1.

Change out the smoke launchers to the USMC 8-shot, double-stacked type.

APU Power Junction box. New electrical conduit is the angle-iron piece running along the left side of the blow-out panel.

EPLRS antenna mount, minus antenna, capped post to the side of regular antenna. Also shows new, thinner steel antennas for radios too.

Power connection box next to the man-hole cover. There are two screw caps to connect to located on the front of the connector, toward the front of the tank.

PLGR antenna is mounted somewhere on the turret roof. Below it is in front of the crosswind sensor. I have also seen it to the front right of the TC’s cupola as well. The location for it varies.

Tank/Infantry Phone on right rear of hull (and rear Slave Cable Receptacle shown on M1A1 AIMs below, not present on most USMC tanks).

Deep fording kit exhaust flange.

Forward MCB (Mine Clearing Blade) power/control box connector box next to driver’s hatch. (only on later USMC M1A1 AIMs)

The box in front of the loader’s hatch is an MCD (Missile Countermeasure Device). It is used to defeat optically and laser guided anti-tank missiles.

Some USMC M1A1HCs are using the old sprocket guards as well. The older T-156 Chevron Block track had an issue with jumping off the sprockets. The newer T-158 Bigfoot track solved the problem. Originally developed for the M1IP the USMC started putting teh rings back on M1A1s that were stationed stateside in the early-mid nineties. It was an easy fix to counter the track losing tension during operation. The USMC tanks that came off of the Maritime Preposition Ships (MPS) in Kuwait for OIF I /II do not have the sprocket rings. The USMC tanks that you see in IRAQ with Retaining Rings are from stateside (1st or 2nd Tank Bn). They are part of the different ocean-going Marine Expeditionary Units (MEU) that have gone to Iraq and participated in the festivities over the past two years. So, specific USMC tanks could be seen with the rings applied. The below pic is a USMC M1A1HC in ops in Iraq.

For the USMC BRE used in OIF.

Eduard makes one, set # 35598. There is also one in the new Academy M1A1 Iraq 2003 kit. It is one of the few good pieces off the new J sprue. It also has a T/I Phone box on the new sprue. The rest of the kit sucks though.

You can take a look at my M1 Variants Article as well for more info and pics.

You can also take a look at my USMC M1A1HC that I did a while ago.

“Angry American”, USMC M1A1HC

Good luck on it.

5

Gino, thanks again for the mountain of info and images to go along with descriptions.

Didn’t realise just how much is missing from the Tamiya kit.

Would it not be easier (my scratchbuilding is non-existent) to use the Dragon AIM kit, add the grenade launchers and mcd from Tamiya kit, and then swap the Eduard BRE for the AIM BRE?

Then build Army M1A1s from the Tamiya kit? The tanks on the 4th US Army Sheet from Echelon don’t have BRE, heck some of them don’t even have APUs.

Just a thought that occurred to me

Thx

6

The Dragon AIM kit is more accurate and more detailed. It would be great as a USMC M1A1HC.

To make the Tamiya into an accurate Army M1A1, you still would need to add basically all the same stuff, minus the smoke launchers and MCD. Tamiya’s is also lacking the anti-slip coating on the turret and hull too. Either way, Tamiya’s takes some work to get really accurate, it can be done though. I used an Academy (Tamiya copy) hull and DML turret for my USMC M1A1 HC.

Which Echelon sheet are you talking about? Only 2nd BDE, 3ID (1-64 AR and 4-64 AR) had the locally made Army BREs (the one in the AIM kit) in OIF. They came on the PrePo draw tanks out of APS-5 in Kuwait.

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I’m refering to Echelon T35016 “Spearhead of the 3-7 Cav…”

Has markings for tanks from 1-37,2-69,2-70 and some markings for a M1 Panther II.
All of the tanks pictured on the sheet don’t have the army bre and some of them don’t have an apu in the bustle rack either.

Either way turning the Tamiya kit into an accurate version of anything is going to take work.

The AIM is the best option for a M1A1 at the moment but is the assembly thereof easier than the work required to “fix” the Tamiya kit?

8

Makes sense. Only 2 BDE, 3ID armor Bns (1-64 and 4-64) had the BREs. Not all tanks had or kept the APUs. If they were damaged or broke down, they were often taken out to allow more storage for other stuff.

DML’s AIM is nice. I haven’t heard any real issues with assembly on it.

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Hey Gino, some awesome pics there! Cool! Thanks for posting 'em!

Why are the wheels on the desert Abrams so different in color on the pic in the desert? I realize they probably changed/replaced them, but if I wanted to model this, how would I defend it?

You’re the man, you would know!?

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It looks like the first 3 and the last one have been replaced and are green. Replacement road wheels (all parts for that matter) can be ordered in green or sand. They either ordered the wrong color or were sent whatever they had in stock. I usually include at least one green roadwheel on my sand vehicles to show a replaced one and add some variety. I have never had to defend it, but the above reason is the explanation.

11

I’ve logged a request with LuckyModels to see if they can organise the Tamiya plow sprue and even asked for the plastic bags with the chains/vinyl. Will wait and see what they come back with.

I’ve looked at all my options etc and I’ve decided to build the 3x Tamiya kits as they are. Will build them as army and usmc versions but with no add-ons. Simply to practice building M1A1s and practice desert weathering because…

I plucked up the courage and just ordered the AIM and SEP kit online, should arrive here in about 2 weeks time. (My wife is going to kill me, rephrase I’m going to kill me). These kits scare the living daylights out of me.

I’ve only built one M1A2(my first ever armour model) and would rather spend time/effort/money on the Dragon kits since they are newer and more accurate to start off with.

Still have the usmc parts from my first M1A2 which will endup on the AIM kit along with the Eduard BRE.
Will get the Eduard rear engine slat armour and the new RWS(correct term?) from AFV for the SEP kit. (unless included in the kit?)

While I wait to here from Lucky and for my AIM/SEP, I’ll be practicing on my Tamiyas. (imho the kit is a real joy to build)
Got more than enough decals available so got to put them on something.

Maybe Dragon will make my life easier and release a usmc version, time will tell.

Gino, thanks again for all your time and effort you’ve given to me. I really appreciate it and I’ve learn’t alot from your posts about the abrams.

Thx

12

The M1A2 SEP doesn’t have an RWS (Remote Weapons Station) or slat armor on it. The RWS and rear slat armor are part of the TUSK (Tank Urban Survival Kit) upgrade package that is still in testing and hasn’t been fielded. A standard M1A2 SEP doesn’t have these features. The Dragon kit includes all the parts to build a standard M1A2 SEP with either the UUAPU (Under Armor APU), or the Hawker Storage Battery System. There are a few parts of the TUSK that have been fielded, such as the slat armor (for a short time, then it was discontinued due to weight and problems with performing maintenance with it in place), the T-I Phone, and loader’s gun shields.

Dragon’s M1A2 SEP review.

Full TUSK upgrade.

If Lucky Model can’t get you the parts, contact Tamiya America directly. You can order sprues and parts from them as well. Each sprue goes for about $5 plus hipping. They are really reasonable.

Good luck on all the Abrams.

13

I’ll be following along with this as I have both the Tamiya M1A1 kit and the Dragon M1A1 with the Mine Plow option. My knowledge of armor is extremely limited though in terms of upgrades and variants as I was assigned to keeping aircraft in the sky via the USAF. However, I still appreciate the armor of today’s modern warfare and I do look forward to gaining more knowledge of these awesome machines as time goes on. I’ve had these Abrams kits for quite some time now but have held off building them until I can gain more knowledge and experience…

14

Nothing to be afraid of with the Dragon Abrams kits! They go together quite easily, and are fantastic in detail. I’m converting my third on into a USMC right now, and just recieved the Eduard BRE. Looks sufficient enough! It’s a great kit man, and trust me, you’ll be happy you got them!

I’m sure you’ll do fine on it, and I can’t wait to see your progress!!

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Thanks for the encouragement CDN. Out of curiosity, where in New York are ya from? I’m near Lake George myself…

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Hey, I live in Glens Falls, just off of Quaker Road… right on the cusp of Queensbury!

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Glens Falls here as well. Right off West Notre Dame Street by GF High School.

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If I recall Tamiya only sells “extra” sprues to buyers in the States, I’m all the way in South Africa. I will give them a try anyway if Lucky fall through. Thanks for the tip.

If I’m understanding correctly the RWS hasn’t been fielded in Iraq, so you could only use it on an A2 without unit markings then?

CDN, thanks for the photos. I’m sure that once I’ve gotten through my Tamiya stash the Dragon kits won’t seem as daunting. Just take the build slowly one step at a time

Personally its the PE that bothers me, had success with PE grills etc but I struggled with Tamiya PE on my LeClerc for the fuel drums. I’ve read that most parts in the AIM kit comes in plastic or PE so might not be that bad.

It also appears that the SEP kit is easier to assemble than the AIM based on the instructions of the two kits on HobbySearch?

19

Sorry, forgot where you are located. I hope you can get the parts.

The RWS has not been fielded on any M1A1 or M1A2. It is still in the test phase. A test tank without markings would be right I guess.

20

Bri, I think we’ve talked before on a few other sites… Does Bad Scale Racing sound Familiar to you?