Hi all. My first time on this forum, nice place you’ve got.
I was curious what is the best way to brush paint a model?
Thanks very much.
Hello lol
Personally, I believe brush painting takes more skill to master than does airbrushing. I only brush paint Model Master acrylics on smaller models, and here’s what I do: I coat the entire model with Testors flat light aircraft gray enamel from a rattle can. This helps the acrylics to adhere to the model better and also helps me find blemishes. I then brush paint the acrylics over the enamel using the widest brush possible. I usually need a few coats to get good coverage. Model Master acrylics have been a godsend for me. They are so easy to use and because they are water-based and generally thin, they coat very well without nasty brushstrokes. They are also excellent if they need to be touched up. If I try to touch up enamel paints, even when it’s dry the “repair” sticks out like a sore thumb. The only thing I’m still working on is using acrylics when masking is necessary. Acrylics bleed (badly!!) right through the edges of whatever masking tape I’m using (even Tamiya).
I’ve used this technique on a few 1/72 scale KoPro Mig’s and I’ve been seriously amazed at the results! Excellent camouflage patterns without even having to mask!! I’ll post 'em on here someday…
Just remembered…I also used (sort of) the above technique with my 1/48 Revell A-10. I wanted to paint the Euro I scheme, so I spray painted the whole model with the lightest color (Medium Green) in the pattern using a rattlecan. I then attempted to mask the areas I wanted to stay this color (so that I could eventually spray the other colors) and gave up! I just couldn’t mask the areas I needed to properly, especially that tricky engine area! So, in a fit of what at the time seemed to be insanity, I just started brush painting the Dark Gray and Dark Green using Model Master acrylics and no masks whatsoever. After about two coats of the acrylic, I was absolutely floored by the result!!! It even looked better after I applied the final dullcote.
What seemed to be, at first, a very challenging wraparound scheme turned out to be very simple indeed!
Please try it sometime…
First off, [#welcome] to the forums!!
Secondly, to brush paint well it takes practice, practice, practice! I’ve been a brush-painter ever since I started modeling a few years ago and it takes alot of trial and error. You have to find a series of paints that fit your needs. I pretty much only paint with ModelMaster Acrylics, since they flow well, no brush strokes, and they have a great color selection.(Never, ever use Tamiya acrylics for brush-painting, their only good for airbrushes.)
Then after you find the paints you like, it’s a matter of picking of QUALITY brushes. By quality I don’t mean those cheap dollar store brushes. I mean the good stuff that costs around $5.00 a brush. You can usually find them at your local art store, such as Hobby Lobby. (It’s smart to buy them when their on sale.) My personal preference for brushes is Golden Taklon, but of course its only my preference and you will probably find a brush that fits your needs.
After the brush and paint, it’s a matter of trying and practicing inorder to get what you looking for. After a while you will start to turn out amazing builds equal to any airbrushed model. If you don’t believe me check out these two builds of mine, entirely hand-painted…
/forums/1153923/ShowPost.aspx
/forums/7/1076568/ShowPost.aspx#1076568
Thanks to both for the responses! Appreciate it!
It helps a lot, I will be going to the hobby shop soon so I will pick up a few items.
Hi Everyone [:)]
I’ve got a site about painting, you might find some of the tutorials and help on it useful. There is information about different techniques and a gallery for people to submit pictures of their own miniatures and models.
The address is: http://www.paintminiatures.co.uk/
Thanks
Andy-the-painter
If you can get Vallejo’s Model Color or Panzer Aces line,they are great for handbrushing.
1 Like
Welcome.
I have 3 or 4 airbrushes but I still brush paint all the time.
I don’t bother with the extra effort involved with paint mixing and airbrush cleaning for smaller parts in a build. I just take care of all that with a brush. It is so much easier. I build cars and I only use my airbrushes for the body and parts that require an absolutely smooth finish.
As for brushing technique. I am sure I am not following best practices. HAHA. I open the jar, dip my dry brush in, and paint away. I do that with my Tamiya X and XF paints. It works just fine. Now Vallejo, AK, Green Stuff World, Monument Hobbies, and all those other concentrated water based paints, you do need to follow a certain technique. Put a little in a pallet, prep and load your brush, things like that. I am probably still not doing those paints right either, but I can make it work.
Hope this helps.
I’ve never been able to stand Model Master, so I don’t miss it now that it’s gone. My preference was always PollyScale (also gone), but now I use a lot of Vallejo and MiG or even Games Workshop (all acrylics). The key for my PollyScale use, which I am now starting to apply to all acrylics is to add a couple drops of dishwashing soap to the bottle when I get it. This breaks the surface tension and helps the paint flow better.
Wider, softer brushes also help. I don’t tend towards really good brushes, nor do I treat them as well as I should, though both of those ought to help in the long run.
Practice, practice, practice. Don’t force yourself to get full coverage on the first pass. Going back too heavily over paint that’s starting to dry is the best way to get bad streaking. Take your time, and each model will be better than the one before.
2 Likes
It’s important to thin the paint, just as it is with airbrushing. Also, it helps to deal with brush strokes to apply 2 coats if necessary, one brushing in one direction, and then the second brushing perpendicular to the first.
It takes a little practice, but then, everything in our hobby takes practice. You don’t improve without it.
And when I say thinning is important, I do the following:
With water-based acrylics, such as Andrea, Vallejo Model Color and Vallejo Model Air, Lifecolor, and craft store brands like Americana, Folk Art, Apple Barrel, I use a wet palette. That keeps the paints thinned to a good consistency.
With Tamiya’s X/XF acrylics (NOT water-based), I get my best results using Tamiya’s proprietary thinner X-20A. I’ll dip my brush in the color, then in a jar of the thinner. Or I’ll pick up thinner from the jar, then pick up color from the underside of the lid. Either way works for me. For small bits-a knob on a stick shift, for example, I don’t bother thinning it. But for areas, like a wing surface, I found that the paint can clump without thinning, and that a second coat could lift off a first coat.
With enamels, like the old Model Master enamels, or Testor in the square jars, I use mineral spirits and a ceramic palette to thin the paints, with a little color in a well on the palette, then adding a little mineral spirits to it.
That’s just my experience. Others will have other experience, of course.
Hope that helps!
Best regards,
Brad
When Pollyscale paints were around, I thought that they were the best thing since peanut butter and jelly. Easy to brush as long as you had the right type brush.