Jack I now know that I have 47 bottles of Tamiya acrylic paint and 88 bottles of Vallejo. Would you believe none of the colors I need for S.C.C. 14 and 15 were among them. I am not a very attentive store keeper, so I had no idea how many or what colour paint I had on hand.
Harold
Harold, no problem about the helping out - it benefits me too, as now I at least have a possible use for that particular Vallejo paint. My jar of Tamiya mix SCC 15 is seven years old, so good to know it is still useable, and I will need it for My Humber Scout once I get back to it.
Bish, I take it by OZ you mean Australia and not that place with the yellow brick road. Hopefully things work out for our friends across the pond.
regards,
Jack
I received the new air compressor I ordered. At first, I was disappointed because the Iwata miniature spray gun I have is too big for the air compressor. The spray gun has a 1.0mm needle and nozzle set. Then I tried the new air compressor with my Iwata airbrush that has a 0.35mm needle and nozzle, it works perfectly. In fact, it works so good at 17 PSI I was able to paint the Matador truck bed, cab interior, canopy and undercarriage with no runs and no over-spray using Vallejo surface primer. The finish is smooth, and I did not use any thinner or flow improver.
In the past my big industrial air compressor made it hard to regulate the air pressure in the 15 to 20 PSI range because it was designed to operate at 100 to 125 PSI. Even after I added a second regulator and moisture filter it would deliver to much air or not enough and the compressor was very laud. The result was either occasional runs in the paint, excessive paint buildup around tight places, or rough finish from dry paint (over-spray) when I use my airbrush. The miniature spray gun has its place with large aircraft wings and ship hulls, but I seem to do fine on 1/35 scale AFV bodies with a 0.35mm airbrush at 17 PSI.
Below is the work I did yesterday and today with the first coat of USA Olive Drab Vallejo Surface Primer #74.608. The finish coat will be British S.C.C. 15 Olive Drab (which is not US Olive Drab). It will be a Tamiya mix of XF-81, XF-58, and XF-71 that Mike Starmer researched. The camouflage paint will be S.C.C. 14 Blue Black, Tamiya XF-69. Originally, I had planned to use Vallejo paint, but after other considerations have decided to go with a proven Tamiya mixture. The camouflage pattern will be like figure 7 from the British Military Training Pamphlet #46, shown below.
I feel the need to explain that colours mentioned in M.T.P. #46 were superseded by S.C.C. 15 Olive Drab and S.C.C. 14 Blue Black in 1943, but the camouflage pattern illustrated in M.T.P. #46 remained the same. These were colours used in N.W. Europe during the Second Wold War. Originally I had planned to model the Matador after British Army units located in the Orkney Islands, but identifying specific units became very difficult and as it turned out I already had decals for the British 2nd Army.
Harold
Jack, yes indeed, i do mean the land down under.
Good to hear your sorted on the markings and scheme Harold.
Wondered what that ‘splat’ noise was…
Bish – never tried a bust before – looking forward to seeing your techniques.
Harold, definitely worth coming down under for a look around. It’s a long flight to get here – so make it a long trip! The Matador is coming along really well, the paint is going down well now that you have sorted out the airbrush and compressor.
That has been a huge rabbit hole to go down with the British Army paint colours, makes my head hurt.
Svenne, another truck! Excellent! And at a bargain price! Off to a good start there!
GreySnake, the Sherman looks really good, an attractive scheme. Very nicely finished, good that you saw it all the way through.
Gamera, the Conqueror is looking huge.
The Achilles is coming together easily, the Tamiya 1/48 armour kits have been great every time.
Harold and Piers: Those look good guys!!!
Yep, that was our economy.
Thanks LA, need to get some more work done on that soon.
Nice progress there.
Thanks, Bish, Cliff and our Mate from down under, in the beautiful land of Australia. I have been reading about Australia and found out it has more dangerous animals in the outback than the jungles of South America or Africa.
Today my progress was limited by other activities, but I did manage to get the windows and mirrors on the cab. The next step is to mask the windows and give the cab a couple of coats of primer. I will use a new liquid mask made by Hobby Pro manufacture of VMS products in Poland. https://www.vms-supplies.com/
The split windows on this Matador remind me of a 1932 Model A Ford my neighbor had when we were kids growing up in the country on a farm. That split window ventilation worked rather good on a nice day when it was not raining.
Harold
Harold: Looks good! I really like that PE grille.
Thank you, Cliff. I have the primer on and need to give it 24 hours to dry thoroughly before I do any touch up around the windows.
I am really likeing that Harold, the PE is nicely done and looks great with some paint on. Nice touch haveing the front window open.
Love the sig pic.
Looks good to me. You did an excellent job masking off the windows.
I wish that were true my friend. I used liquid masking and it was not applied heavy enough, so in some places I had to remove paint. I talked with Gino about keeping the windows clean while painting and he suggested masking tape instead of liquid masking. So I cleaned the windows as good as I could and taped both sides of all the windows. Then I repainted the cab with a good coat of Vallejo olive drab primer and it looks better than it did, but the proof will be when I remove the tape.
I also received finish paint from my supplier today. I am using a Mike Starmer mix of 5 parts Tamiya XF-61, 2 parts XF-62 and 2 parts XF-3 to get a colour match with British S.C.C. 15 Olive Drab. I painted six clear plastic spoons with Vallejo Olive Drab Surface Primer today and later tonight or tomorrow morning I will paint a couple of spoons with the mixed color. I do not have the color chip Mike is sending me yet, but I am curious to see what it looks like. This is a different mix than the one Mike published in his white paper that Jack and I have been using.
Harold
Harold, I’m curious too about this new SCC.15 mix, where did you find it? A pure yellow additive gives me an impression it will be quite different, but still be an olive colour of sorts.
regards,
Jack
Hello Jack, below is the email Mike sent me with instructions on mixing Tamiya paint to match S.C.C. 15.
Hello Jim [Harold]
Thank you for your order and payment, confirmed this morning. Here are the Tamiya mixes you asked for, don’t want to stop getting on.
SCC.15 Olive Drab 5 x XF61 + 2 x XF62 + 2 x XF3. This is slightly darker than the standard so adjust with medium grey for scale.
SCC.14 (black) XF69 Nato Black is spot on.
I will make up your order today, and advise when posted.
Regards
Mike
Jack, I am not sure I know what “adjust with medium grey for scale” means. I decided to just try the mix on a couple of spoons and see how it compares to your sample made from Mike’s previous instructions. I will post a picture taken in daylight tomorrow for you to see how it looks.
Harold
“adjust with medium grey for scale”
Scaling colour can be a contentious issue. Basically since the model subject is small, it reflects less light to the viewer’s eye, and the preception of colour results in a more darker shade. To compensate for this, some suggest lightening the colour slightly.
regards,
Jack
Whoops, my mistake. I didn’t enlarge the photos- now I can see where the paint came off…
