I wrecked a B17 gun turret by using an untested liquid mask I have never used before. It is called “Incredible White Mask liquid frisket”, made by Grafix. I got it at an art supply department. Many months ago, it was highly recommended on this forum. I should have had the sense to test it on scrap first.
The ingredients are ammonia and natural latex.
After painting, I couldn’t remove it. There were some Eduard paper masks under parts of it and even that wouldn’t peel up. The more I picked at it, the worse it got, until I had what looked like a rough white mothball! I even tried buffing with a soft buffing disc on a moto-tool. Made it worse. Perhaps there was a chemical reaction between the Tamiya lacquer, or something, I don’t know. But look out for this stuff. Or at least test with the paint and plastic you intend to use.
I am hesitant to make this a suggestion,because I think the Ammonia is the cause of the problem
So, this is me just thinking out loud (or, out keyboard?) Maybe some Ammonia based cleaner will take that back off? I mention it because I have rejected every product suggestion in my “modeling lab” that includes Ammonia in it. I don’t use Windex, I use a Chlorox version of simple green, the “home made thinner brews” for Acrylic paints that include ammonia, I either reject or modify the mixture.
one other possible substance that might cut that stuff after it has “dried” into a rubber ball,is the Medea airbrush cleaner,it can cut dried Acrylic paint out of an airbrush
Don’t take any of this as a “how to”,it is just my thoughts on things that I know can sometimes ruin a perfectly good paint job,which is sort of the same problem that mask has given you
oh,and I am sorry to read your post,you must have a lot of work into your build if you are at the masking for later colors stage
Yes, it is a beautiful model in final stages, but there is hope for it yet. I got a PM from a member who has a spare turret and he is going to send it to me! This is such a good bunch of people here!
And thank you for all your good suggestions. Unfortunately, it’s too late to salvage it. My knife scraped it all up and the buffing wheel burned a hole in it. I cut it off with an Exacto #11 blade with saw teeth which worked fairly well, and threw it in the circular file.
It has been many years since I have had such a disaster. It was looking so nice, I guess I was in a hurry to finish it.
For “misteak”-free projects, slow down and “THIMK!!!”
OK seriously though I was warned by the guy at my LHS to not use liquid masks with out a good testing to check for any reactions (plastic / paint / wind / barometric press…oops carried away there)
So I figured if I have to do all that, just skip 'em all together and use tape.
_Cadet Chuck:_Glad somebody was able to give you a replacement part … Say How ’ bout a picture of this creation, now that its done?
Steve- I will be glad to post a pic or two, but it will be a little while before it is finished. I am building it to replicate the “Liberty Belle”, a restored B-17 that travelled the country for display and rides at air shows. I took a flight on her in 2006. Alas, she is gone now, burned up after an emergency landing in 2011 after an engine fire.
It seems that it would work,but, it doesn’t come off right,it will peel off in some places like it does when it dries on your finger,and in other places it sticks almost as well as paint or “real” glue
As long as I have been using it, the MicroScale formula works for me, but, I mostly use Bare Metal foil for canopies now, with Line-O-Tape for lines, etc,I will still use MicroMask for some bombs if the curves are too severe for the tapes to work, though
That’s gonna be so cool. The field of modeling restored planes seems to be a need one.
I imagine there are challenges representing parts used or not, the type of added view ports and colors that differ from the warbird build. Sounds exciting.
I’ve used Elmer’s glue for a mask, and it works OK, but once you paint over it, everything is kind of sealed in. I soaked the painted parts in water for more than a day, and they didn’t budge.
Finally, I (very carefully!!) cut a small slit through the paint coat, so water could reach the glue. Finally then it gave way.
Used this method on the searchlights for USS New Orleans over at the Pearl Harbor group build. I posted photos of the finished lights, if anyone wants to see how it worked out.
So–I’m not sure Elmer’s would be a good choice for any and all masking projects.
I’ve also had lots of trouble with commercial maskers. I tried MicroMask on aircraft wheels. Painted the tire, waited a couple of days, masked, then painted the hub–and could never get the mask to pull off cleanly. At one point, I even tried gloss coating the wheel before applying the mask, thinking it would stick less tenaciously. Didn’t work either.
Now, I handpaint the tires with acrylic craft paint, after painting the hub. Lots less frustration.
Steve- Yes, it is interesting to build a model of a restored aircraft. I took 99 photos of the Liberty Belle, inside and out, over the two days she was at the local airport. I have been referring to these photos as the model build progressed and am trying to replicate it as closely as possible. Actually, I have found really no significant differences from the original, except in some interior details.
I saw the Belle the year before she burned in a field not far from my house. Such a shame. I look forward to seeing a replica of her and will be looking for pictures. Thanks.
Say How ’ bout a picture of this creation, now that its done?
