I am starting to build Trumpeters’ 1/144 SeaWolf Attack Submarine (SSN-21). Most of the other subs I have constructed are in the new “factory” paint scheme. I am looking forward to experimenting with some weathering on the SeaWolf model. My question is what is the best way to weather a sub? Many excellent weathered sub model appear to have a black/gray undercoat with washes of very light white/gray. Is this the right format or are there other tricks I am missing? I would greatly appreciate some expert advice.
Thanks for the link. I should be more specific. What is the best way to airbrush a weathered look for a sub? I have read articles about putting a primer layer down first before adding the black color or mixing gray and black together. Any hints would be much appreciated.
Skipjack with a Grey topside is very doubtful… But if I remember correctly Revell also included a 3 or 4 blade screw and a “reactor hatch” and the fairwater was shaped all wrong… The only accurate Skipjack that I’m aware of is the YMW 1/340 resin kit…
Only boats I ever saw with anything but black above waterline colors was a 598 class Boomer ( the SSBN 601 R.E. Lee) which was being being used for spec ops in the Tonkin Gulf… The Sail and turtle back sides were painted a haze grey.
Many early 50s guppies had grey sides too but In my time on the Boats I never saw a Grey boat… Maybe from some angles after a month or two of weathering the color may appear a greyish color but these hulls were not designed for surface operations especially the Skipjack Class. As for the red lower hulls it depends on Boat, Yard, and timeframe. I mix and match my models lower hull colors…But unless I’m modeling a Guppie or WW2 boat the upper hulls are always Black… Just like Henry Ford’s Model “T”…
For weathering I usually will add a faint greenish white “alge” waterline… or a burnt siena color … Once again depending on where the boat is operating and the time of year etc. and how long she has been docksided.
Otherwise there is little to weather on a modern glow boat.
The latest scheme is a satin black (boot topping black) area where the boat is exposed when surfaced, and a very flat dark gray (like a gunship gray) from the waterline and below. This is a new measure but I’ve seen it on all the boats coming out of dry dock during the last year. Actually, it looks pretty good, there are places where certain components like the torpedo doors, sea chests, stern planes and rudders are painted with the satin black treatment.
Observe the series of photos of the USS Scorpion taken in 1968, just before her loss. There is a ‘walk around’ of photos taken of her as she was alongside the USS Tallahatchie County (AVB-2).
Note the haze gray of the sail of the Scorpion. Compare it with the tone of the Tallahatchie County just beyond. To my eye they are extremely close. The casing also appears to be gray, but that is the reflection of the sky.
The intersection between the sail and the casing was hand painted (not sprayed) and was very ragged. Note too the freshly overpainted panels on the sail.
What I think we are seeing is how the “Plastic” ( fiberglass ) weathered on those fairwaters.
I think the Skipjacks were the last boats to have what we called “plastic” fairwaters.
But once again In my experience anyway during the 1970 to 76 timeperiod the 601 was the only nuke boat I saw with other than a silky black finish. I have found that Tamiya’s NATO black is a good choice for new finishes. Worn finishes do have a grey look to them especially in B&W film it’s actually the contrast between a flat worn surface and a semi gloss wet appearence. I really could see no reason why a Skipjack class boat would have a grey finish when they were terrible boats for surface operations with very poor performance. But hey the Navy always did have their reasons for most things that didn’t matter.
We called these “S” boats “Rickover’s Rockets”… I think they were our quickest Boats until the Seawolfs and Virginias arrived. Unfortunitly they were also loud and shallow divers.
I have a friend who is a plankowner on the Scamp he may have something to add about the colors pre 1970 etc.