Hi All!
I’m finishing up on my Revell 1/48 B-17G and am at the point of attaching the horizontal stabilizers. I’ve noticed that they have a pretty loose fit, as compared to the wings. Any tips on ways to attach them and to hold them in place so they have the correct dihedral? Type of glue? I’ve even thought of using Perfect Plastic Putty instead of (or mixed with) glue because of its thickness and ability to fill the inevitable gaps. Any thought are appreciated!!
Oy… Perfect Plastic Putty is NOT glue. Glue with liquid glue, let dry. Fill in with PPP. Let dry. Wet sand with water. Simple as that.
Hi,
I have never built that particular model so am unable to address it directly.
Getting that angle right though is a key to having the model look correct.
Glancing at drawings of G’s online, for what they are worth, the stabs look to me to be pretty straight across.
Can you glue them with solvent and then go back with putty to correct any gaps?
Check the fit of the mating surfaces. Sand down the contact points to give a more solid fit. Check your progress repeatedly until you get it as good a possible. Then glue them in place.
Somebody once taught me our eyes can work better than measuring and tools sometimes. I think horizontal stabs on model airplanes is one of those times.
Me, I apply glue to both of them, and sighting right down the nose and using the tail for perpendicular reference put the dihedral where it looks right and hold still for a minute. Done.
All of the above, plus, if the mounting tabs are a loose fit in the slots, shim with plasttic strip of the appropriate thickness and/or add support tabs to the inner structure.
Thanks for the replies! I figured the PPP solution was crazy-think. 
I have some Testors liquid cement in a bottle, but it seems way to thin to create a good bond. Likewise, thick CA doesn’t seem to work well either. Surfaces are smooth and fit well, just kind of floppy. The idea of shims to tighten things up is a good one! I’m now leaning toward good old tube plastic cement to get a “welding” effect. Hold and then prop to correct angle (yes, pics do seem show them pretty much “flat” w/o dihedral).
If you make about 3 applications of Testors or tamiya liquid glue, one after another on both mating surfaces, it will soften enough to push them tight and get a good bond. Helps with gaps as well. If you get a slight ridge of plastic squeeze out on the joint just sand flush
Lightly press the parts together before applying the liquid cement.
Touch the brush to the joint and allow the cement to flow into the seam.
Wait a few seconds and press the parts together a little more firmly.
You should get that same raised ridge of melted plastic.
Applying thin liquid cement to separate parts and then pressing together is a roll of the dice. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.
Tube cement is less potent than liquid cements. The tube stuff is partial carrier medium, a resin of sorts, and once the glueing agent evaporates away, it leaves the resin behind. The carrier resin has very little bonding strength. I’ve had old models literally fall apart at the seams as the resin deteriorates with age, because the plastic was not welded together by the bonding agent in the glue. While the liquid stuff is all of the actual bonding agent. After a time it evorates away as well, but leaves less residual mess. Some liquid cement brands are better and hotter than others. I have gotten away from Testors liquid cement and moved to other brands due to quality control problems with that stuff.
Thanks for the chemistry lesson! That makes sense!! Recalling older models I had as a kid, that’s exactly what seemed to happen. Since I already have a new bottle of the Testers, I’ll try the wick method mentioned. I just wish my third arm and hand weren’t in the shop!
I agree with that, they usually are. I’m not sure why I mentioned dihedral in my post.
[:(DD]
I often make sort of jigs for that job. I weight down or tape down the fuseage so it fits level. then I cut blocks of particle board or wood to sit under stabilizers so they fit level. Then I apply glue and stickt them in place and wait for glue to dry.
I built that model a while ago. I just took a look at it and I was amazed at how big the horizontal stabilizers are. I can see how it would be difficult keeping them horizontal until the glue cures. I agree 100% with Don regarding how to keep the stabilizers level. An option to using wood would be foam wedges.
Or use Blu-tack. I‘ve tried sticking a blob of it at the fuselage just under the stabs, especially when fit is loose. Position stabs with Blu-tack as support, with the advantage that angle can be adjusted to your satisfaction. Then apply liquid cement at the seam. Carefully remove Blu-tack after cement has dried. If necessary, apply liquid cement at underside of seam of stab/fuselage joint.
Great suggestions, Don, Johnny and Edwin! The wings on this particular model fit very tight, with a tongue and groove type of arrangement that I wish the stabs would have also used (this would then be a non-problem). They have such a sure fit, I could almost leave them unglued to remain removable for transport if I wanted to, which I don’t. I slipped them on and that allows for a very stabile platform. I think a combination of the blue tack and foam cut to the right height might be the answer…
Is there a problem wet-sanding with Perfect Plastic Putty, since it is water-soluable? I thought people have reported elsewhere in the forum, that applying water, even after the putty had appeared to have cured, wound up liquefying the putty again.
I’ll use tape, by the way, to hold horizontal stabilizers in place while the adhesive sets up.
as long as you don’t flood it with water but enough to keep the paper moist.
Exactly. As long as you don’t saturate it, you’re fine. Sometimes I’ll use a sponge or small sanding blocks.