Hi all, just finished applying some Vallejo Pigments to a 1:72 Panther and I was wondering, what is the best way to “fix” it in place? I have a 10 year old MIG Productions Pigment Fixer, but I was worried that applying it with a brush would remove the pigments/change its appearence which I’m already happy with.
Can I spray a layer of Testor’s Dull Cote (spray can) in order to “fix” the pigments and otherwise finish my model?
Thank you.
Spraying the dullcoat over the pigments will diminish the pigments or make them disappear.The pigment fixer will also change the look.If you are happy with the look you achieved,then you are done,handle carefully and put it on the shelf and thats it.
For a heavy built up look i mix the pigments in water and then apply that way, once dry i brush off excess. After that i will brush on some lose pigments and leave at that.
If it is good, properly ground pigment it will not need to be sealed. It is so fine it will settle into tiny imperfections in even gloss finishes. Only strong soap and water or solvent will take it off.
That sounds good to me. What pigments behave as you say, Don?
I guess I’ve never tried a true pigment product, just sanded colored chalk back in the old days which I quickly abandoned for reasons mentioned above when trying to seal or fix it. Man, that was a long time ago.
when I use vallejo pigments on my tanks, I seal them with pigment binder by vallejo though my air brush. it reminds me of a super thin elmers glue works very well.
Interesting. Those are two Vallejo products I’ve not tried. I wondered if their pigments might be some of the good ones.
Interesting. Those are two Vallejo products I’ve not tried. I wondered if their pigments might be some of the good ones.
Really, all pigments are tha same now. There is no better, they are aeven ans excellent. you can use tamiya x-20a thinner to set pigments. Use sparingly. you can also use enamel thinner also used sparingly.
I disagree with everything stated above. I’ve had both good and bad products. Some go right on and can be carefully handled. Others won’t stick at all and fall off.
Fixing pigment with a pray coating makes the model itself darker and minimizes the effect of the dusty look. I’ve seen good results with the Ammo pigment fixer when applied with a dropper around the edges of the pigment and allowed to flow into it by capillary action, then rubbed.
Everyone can have their own opinion, but the question was asked and the answers matter.
Bill
I find that using a “Fixative”, an artist product sprayed through my AB works well as it won’t ruin the look if you go light. And it helps hold the pruduct on so you can dust it later and not worry about knocking anything off. These are all good techniques, to each his own. It boils down to what you prefer.
BK
here is one of the tanks that I used a pingment binder
My answer is a qualified “yes”.
As others have noted, applying a seal coat over pigments will change the way they look.
I use DullCote, too, and when I use weathering powders (ground pastel chalks, in my case. I refuse to pay Mig or his former partners for something I can make myself) I account for the change in intensity that the seal coat causes. I’ll apply the color till it looks too intense, for example, knowing that the seat coat will knock the effect back.
However, I will also apply weathering powders after using DullCote to seal painted effects, knowing that, although there’s nothing binding the powder to the surface, I also know that as long as the model won’t be handled, nothing is going to rub the powder away.
Hope that helps!
Best regards,
Brad
[quote user=“GMorrison”]
“I disagree with everything stated above. I’ve had both good and bad products. Some go right on and can be carefully handled. Others won’t stick at all and fall off.”
My comment was taken verbatum from Micael Rinaldi Tankart 3 revised 2nd printing this year. [H]
Really, he says all pigments are the same? That’s not been my experience, but oh well.
You should have included that citation, then. The way you posted your comment suggested that it’s your own experience. If you happen to have had that experience, you might want to clarify that you have.
Baron, don’t tell how I should post my responses! Who are you the forum police? Mind you self. I’m sick and tired of you antagonizing everything I say here. I can post what and when I want and you have no authority over me. I don’t know what I did to you or what aggravates you about me but I don’t need you trying to ruin my experience or run me off. Won’t happen.
I’m still curious to know why the now cited reference thinks all powders are the same.
And lay off Brad. He simply pointed out that when I questioned what seemed to be a declarative statement on your part, you hadn’t cited your source. Not that it matters, if in fact the book says all powders are the same I still disagree.
Bill
Then go buy the book and prove me wrong.
Pigment is pigment. If you want good adhesion, you apply to a rough flat coat and if you want better adhesion you have to grind them in, not sprinkle like salt. For permanence you have to use fixer, or they may rub off or fall off. That is the nature of ALL pigments and there are no exceptions.