best airbrush?

[Anonymous]

Hi all I want to buy a really good airbrush but theres so many different ones out there I dont know which one to get! What is the best airbrush available for spraying really fine lines and is also good for medium to large spray patterns. What do you all recomend?

[tho9900]

Brushes suited to fine detail and medium coverage include the Badger 100LG with Fine and Medium needles/nozzles, Iwata HP-CR and HP-CS and Thayer and Chandler Omni 4000. (to name just a few of the more popular ones)

I am not sure what you mean by large spray patterns but any of those listed would also work on larger models like 1/16 or 1/35 armor, 1/350 ships and 1/24 aircraft. If you want larger you would probably need to go with a second brush (like a small spray gun almost) or buy one that has a large needle/nozzle combo available. The large needle/nozzle combos for most airbrushes would put out too much paint in too large of a pattern for most model airbrushing.

oops… I forgot to put a link, here is a good resource for figuring out what is good in an airbrush for you:

http://www.craigcentral.com/models/ab.asp

[Anonymous]

Hey Triggerhappy welcome to the forums. Your question is basically the holy grail of airbrushing. The perfect airbrush. An airbrush that does hairlines AND covers wide at the same time. Doesn’t exist and I think that is a good thing really.

Tho has good suggestion to get one with fine and medium tips. If you want really fine lines get an iwata or sotar or harder&stienbeck. AND get something like a crescendo (Badger 175) for big jobs. I have 3 main airbrushes 175 for big stuff, 100 for medium stuff and C-5 for fine work. And anyway, it would be so boring having 1 single perfect airbrush, whats the fun in that[;)][8D]

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the suggestions and tips and the welcom, since there is no perfect airbrush what would be the best one for just doing fine hair line details and a somwhat small/medium spray pattern? I only di 1/48th scale a/c, I want to get into the more intricate German camo schemes like the molted scheme ill buy two brushes if I have to but I mostly am looking for a very fine detail brush. Now on that note with more specifics what brush would you get?

Thanks very much ive been bewildered as which brush to get!

thanks, trigger

[KJ200]

Trigger I use a Badger 100 SG with a fine head for detail work in scales from 1/72 to 1/35. The 100 is a great all round AB as you can swap between fine and medium heads without having to use two seperate ABs.

If you go that route, don’t get the 100 SG as it only has a tiny paint cup, go with the LG which has the paint capacity for largers jobs. Not a problem for me, as I’ve got an Omni 4000 for are work.

Karl

[Fla_Modeler]

You refer to the SG and LG badger models. Being new to airbrush painting, are the gravity SG/LG models better that the bottom feeder? I can’t help thinking about me spilling the paint out of it…LOL.

Thanks,

Mike

[Bgrigg]

Mike,

A general rule for a “do it all” airbrush is a dual action, gravity feed airbrush with as big of a cup as possible and a medium needle/nozzle. A medium needle will easily do 1:48 German camo patterns and still be able to pump out enough paint to do base coats. The aforementioned Badger 100LG is a good choice (I have two, one with fine, the other medium needles/nozzles) and the newer Badger 105 Patriot is as good and may be a tiny bit easier to service as it doesn’t have a washer between the body and head. The Paasche VL and various Iwatas are also excellent airbrushes.

It’s your basic Chevy vs. Ford vs. Mopar question. In my mind Badger = Chevy (the “everyman’s” airbrush, popular, easy to work on and great parts availability), Iwata = Ford (arguably better engineering, but not as popular, costs a bit more) and Paasche = Mopar (a bit rough and on the cheap side, but in the right hands can be as competitive as anything else). Badger and Paasche are “made in the USA”, while Iwata is an import. You may or may not care.

You’re right that you have to be careful not to spill out the paint on a gravity feed airbrush, but most come with a cap. I don’t use mine, as they also block your view of the paint level. You get used to keeping the airbrush level. I find siphon feed airbrushes (I have a Badger 150 and 200, as well) a bit bottom heavy, but either will work. I do find gravity feed airbrushes slightly easier to clean, and ever so slightly less wasteful of paint. YMMV

What are you planning on using for an air supply? While many people focus on the airbrush, the air supply is equally as important, and can easily cost two or three times the price of an airbrush, or even more! Scrimping on the air supply is inviting a world of hurt to your airbrushing experience.

I’m preparing a “user guide” but haven’t finished it yet (and the way things are going it may be a while!). Here is what I have put together for the introduction:

An important consideration when buying an airbrush is to match specifications to your use. You don’t want to end up with an expensive airbrush that ends up sitting in a box because you aren’t comfortable using it. Another consideration is parts availability. Airbrushes are built to exacting tolerances, and are subject to damage by rough handling. As well, needles are fairly fragile, and it is very easy to inadvertently bend the tip, which can then damage the nozzle. There is nothing worse than to accidentally drop the needle and having to wait days, or even weeks, for parts to arrive!

There are many different brands available: Aztek; Badger; DeVilbiss; Efbe; Grex; Hansa; Harder & Steenbeck; Holbein’s Toricon; Olympos; Paasche; Peak; RichPen; Sata; Tamiya; Sotar (owned by Badger); and Thayer & Chandler (also owned by Badger). They all have their adherents and are all useful. We shall concentrate on the top ten airbrushes as chosen by the FSM Forum Members. But first, let’s learn the basics of airbrushes.

AIRBRUSHES:

Airbrushes come in different configurations, and you’ll have to choose for yourself which one would be best for you. Basically you have to choose between external or internal mix, single or dual action & siphon, side or gravity feed.

External vs. Internal Mix:

External mix airbrushes mix the paint and air outside of the airbrush body. This produces a coarse round spray pattern more suitable for large surface areas, or clear over coats. External mix airbrushes are very easy to clean, as the paint never enters the body, but they do not offer the fine range of control that internal mix do. Many manufacturers don’t even make an external mix airbrush. Their primary benefits are low cost and simplicity. Often considered a beginners airbrush, in the right hands they can do remarkable work. Available only as siphon feed and single action.

Examples: Badger 350, and Paasche H.

Internal mix air brushes atomize the paint into the air stream within the body of the airbrush, which produces a much finer spray pattern. This is the most common configuration of airbrushes, and are available as both single and dual action, and siphon, side and gravity feed. They are slightly harder to clean, but are preferred for fine detail work, such as color gradations and fine lines.

Examples: Badger 100 series, Iwata HP-CS Eclipse and the Paasche VL.

Single vs. Dual Action:

Single action has a simple trigger: air flow on or air flow off. You control the line width by adjusting the needle postion and that position is “locked on” until you reset it. Very simple to use, and very precise. This allows for extremely consistent line wides, even after cleaning.

Examples: Badger 200 series, Iwata SAR, or the Paasche H.

Dual action triggers control both the the air flow by pushing down on the trigger, and the needle position by pulling back on the trigger. Sounds harder to use in theory, but its pretty easy to use in practice. Dual action allows you to alter “on the fly” between thin and thick lines.

Examples: Badger 105 Patriot, Iwata HP-CS Eclipse and Paasche VL.

Siphon vs. Side vs. Gravity Feed:

Siphon or bottom feed brushes use either a small bottle or a color cup that attaches to the bottom of the air brush body. They require sufficient air pressure to pull the paint up into the air flow. Great for large surface area painting, they require more attention when cleaning as you have to deal with the paint left in the siphon tube.

Examples: Badger 155 Anthem, Iwata BCR Revolution, or the Paasche VL.

Gravity fed have a permanently attached cup mounted to the top of the body. This allows for slightly less air pressure as gravity takes care of delivering the paint into the air flow. Less air pressure can result in finer spray control, or I should say finer OVER spray control. Relatively easy to clean, and slightly less wasteful of paint, as there is no paint left in a siphon tube.

Examples: Badger 100LG, Iwata HP-CS and Paasche Talon.

There is a third feed mechanism, though not often used in modeling, known as side fed. This has a cup that mounts to either the left or right (depending on the handedness of the owner), and is primarily an illustration air brush. It works much like a gravity fed air brush, and the cup can be rotated so the user can use the airbrush pointing straight down. One benefit of a side fed airbrush is the lack of a color cup in the line of sight. Examples are the Badger 100SF & the Iwata Eclipse HP-SBS.

AIR SUPPLY:

Perhaps even more important, and which can easily can end up being the more expensive acquisition, is a good compressor or other reliable air supply. Your choices are propellant cans, propellant tanks, hobby compressors, air brush compressors or utility compressors.

Propellent Cans:

Often the first choice of beginners due to their initial low cost, some air brushes even are sold as a kit with the air brush and can in one package. I say initial low cost, because you never stop paying for them. They can also be frustrating to use, as they don’t hold that much air. And they have a habit of running out of air before you run out of the requirement for air! You also have to consider just how much garbage they create, as the cans are not refillable. You can buy an entry level compressor for the cost of about a dozen cans. Their main benefit is quietness. Available from your LHS, or online model stores.

Propellent Tanks:

These refillable tanks are typically used for supplying CO2 for soft drinks, or as a supply of nitrogen for welders, these tanks offer a much greater volume of air (though I suspect they still run out at the worst time!) and are completely silent, other than the hiss of the air brush in use. Both gases are good for air brushing as they are considered “dry”, in other words, the compression of CO2 does not squeeze water out, as will happen with compressed air. They are fairly large, and can be a hassle to refill in some communities. They also have a fairly high start-up cost. Since you have to pay for refilling, I don’t consider them a good investment. On the other hand, they will allow you to paint when there are sleeping babies in the house. It all depends on your unique situation! Available direct from the gas supply company in your area.

Hobby Compressors:

These are small compressors, typically a diaphragm powered supply. They can be found for as little as $50 at places like Harbor Freight, or as a “brand name” for around $120. Fairly noisy, and low powered (<40 psi), they can burn out quickly. I don’t recommend them except for the severely budget restrained (I’m married, too!). Typically offered only as tank-less models. Refer to the online stores recommend above.

Air Brush Compressors:

I consider these a step up from the hobby compressor above. Basically the same compressor, only on steroids. Prices can range from $150 to YIKES! These are the types used by air brush artists, nail salons and t-shirt artists. Capable of running for long periods of time, and offer a better range of air pressure. TCP Global have some interesting models, as do Paasche, Badger and Iwata. They are typically paired with a small tank. I recommend double piston tanked models. Refer to the online stores recommend above.

Utility Compressors:

Typically found in garages, they are usually have tanks ranging from 1 gallon and up. I have a friend who has an automotive garage business at home and he hooks up to a 100 gallon behemoth. He NEVER runs out of air! These compressors are invariably loud, and large. However, they do allow you to fill your tires and run pneumatic tools. I use a 3 gallon “pancake” style and run a hose to my spray booth. Any reputable hardware store is a good place to buy these.

EXTRA SUPPLIES:

Propellant tanks and compressors require an air hose, and compressors should also use a water trap and particle trap (often combined). I strongly recommend an air regulator, to insure a consistent pressure. A good respirator is strongly suggested, as the fumes and particles from any type of paint is very hard on lungs. Various fittings to hook the hose to the compressor and also to the airbrush can be necessary, depending on your situation. All joints should be reinforced with Teflon tape, available in the plumbing section of your favorite DYI store. A spray booth is a good idea, but can be expensive for beginners to justify.

[papermaker82]

Triggerhappy, you certainly have touched on a sensitive subject here…

Frankly, if you want a really really fine detail brush, it will not be able to spray large patterns, but usually will be able to spray medium ones. Similarly, if you buy a broad or medium coverage brush, it will not be able to spray the thinnest lines but will do fine for camoflage schemes, including more complicated German ones,as well as some detail work.

For me, the airbrush I use is a Iwata Custom Micron CM-C Plus. I have had it for several months, and all I can saw is wow. It is the finest airbrush Iwata makes, and runs for $600-$700, but it delievers the finest lines possible. However, the largest spray pattern that it will make is not very big compared to other airbrushes, but it still is not to hard to use, just slower, on larger planes. Personally, I have had no trouble painting 1/48 scale planes with it.

However, if you want a more general airbrush, a Iwata Eclipse series airbrush will provide a larger spray pattern and fine spray for most detail work for about $150 while a Iwata High Performance Plus series will provide a smaller spray pattern than an Eclipse and be able to spray more detail for around $200.

Note: Prices for Iwata airbrushes will very greatly depending on where you buy them because Iwata does not sell direct to the customer. Also, you will almost certainly have to buy online. My favorite website is www.dickblick.com, they seem to have the best prices.

[Don_Wheeler]

It’s your basic Chevy vs. Ford vs. Mopar question. In my mind Badger = Chevy (the “everyman’s” airbrush, popular, easy to work on and great parts availability), Iwata = Ford (arguably better engineering, but not as popular, costs a bit more) and Paasche = Mopar (a bit rough and on the cheap side, but in the right hands can be as competitive as anything else). Badger and Paasche are “made in the USA”, while Iwata is an import. You may or may not care.

Boy, Bill, you’re asking for it with these comparisons. In some forums, you’d be jumped on right away, if not by airbrush owners then by car owners.[:)]

Don

[Gordon_D_King]

I use the Badger 200. It works fine for the autos and airplanes I model. I can get broad and fine coverage with it.

[benzdoc]

Ford, Chevy, Mopar - how about a Porsche?

I’ve got a fine German airbrush made by SATA; well actually I’ve got two. The SATAgraph 3 is the best airbrush I’ve ever put my hands on. Check it out for yourself:

SATAgraph 3

The price isn’t for the faint of heart, but tools are always a worthwhile investment.

[Don_Wheeler]

Ford, Chevy, Mopar - how about a Porsche?

I’ve got a fine German airbrush made by SATA; well actually I’ve got two. The SATAgraph 3 is the best airbrush I’ve ever put my hands on. Check it out for yourself:

SATAgraph 3

The price isn’t for the faint of heart, but tools are always a worthwhile investment.

Just as Porsche makes fine cars, I’m sure Sata makes fine airbrushes. If that turns you on and you’ve got the money, why not? But they’re not something the average modeler really needs, are they.

Don

[Fla_Modeler]

Bgrigg, thanks for that bit of really great reading. I had to save a copy for future reference.

Also, thanks to ALL of the replies to the OP of this thread. Some great information from both sides of the fence.

So far I’ve found that for the most part it seems that buying an airbrush will most likely be a dual purchase. At least at some point down the road depending on the cost of the first one. From all the posts It doesn’t appear that one brush will be able to do everything “well”. Most of my modeling will be in 1/35 scale armor and dioramas. So I’m leaning towards one that will have a mix of good detail and broad coverage at first, and perhaps a finer detail brush later on as I get better (hopefully).

Thanks to all.

Mike in The Villages, FL, USA.

[Bgrigg]

Bgrigg:

It’s your basic Chevy vs. Ford vs. Mopar question. In my mind Badger = Chevy (the “everyman’s” airbrush, popular, easy to work on and great parts availability), Iwata = Ford (arguably better engineering, but not as popular, costs a bit more) and Paasche = Mopar (a bit rough and on the cheap side, but in the right hands can be as competitive as anything else). Badger and Paasche are “made in the USA”, while Iwata is an import. You may or may not care.

Boy, Bill, you’re asking for it with these comparisons. In some forums, you’d be jumped on right away, if not by airbrush owners then by car owners.

Don

LOL! I stand by my comments, both to airbrush guys and the car guys! I’m a Badger man for airbrushes, but there’s a soft spot in my heart for Mopars!

[keilau]

Don Wheeler:

Bgrigg:

It’s your basic Chevy vs. Ford vs. Mopar question. In my mind Badger = Chevy (the “everyman’s” airbrush, popular, easy to work on and great parts availability), Iwata = Ford (arguably better engineering, but not as popular, costs a bit more) and Paasche = Mopar (a bit rough and on the cheap side, but in the right hands can be as competitive as anything else). Badger and Paasche are “made in the USA”, while Iwata is an import. You may or may not care.

Boy, Bill, you’re asking for it with these comparisons. In some forums, you’d be jumped on right away, if not by airbrush owners then by car owners.

Don

LOL! I stand by my comments, both to airbrush guys and the car guys! I’m a Badger man for airbrushes, but there’s a soft spot in my heart for Mopars!

The car metaphor is a good one. The proclamation of “best airbrush” is just like choices of car that will never end an argument. They will all take you where you want to go. But some are more fun to drive or use than the others. The following applies to both car and airbrushes:

The German makes: They are over engineered products, fun to use and a joy to look at. They are not necessarily overpriced. I just received a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline Solo that I paid $117 with free shipping at Chicago Airbrush.

The Japan Inc.: Well established reputation in value and quality. My generation used to maintain cars ourselves, from oil change, tune-up, replacing starter motor/drive to, even, transmission or engine rebuild. During the 70’s to 80’s, we found that the Japanese cars were so much easier to work on because the parts were well made and well protected from rusting. In the same way, when I feel how springy an Iwata needle is, I know why they are so popular. It may end up saving you money because it needs fewer replacement.

The American made: Well, we all know the GM story. I always have a soft spot for American products. My first car was a 1966 Chevy Belair with over 150,000 miles on it and burnt oil. Some manufacturers learned to improve quality control by learning from the Japanese. More are outsourcing to the Far East.

The Asian imitation: Varies from very good to really terrible in quality.

I know that American is the world leader in material science and prototype precision machining, the two key ingredients in making top notch airbrush. And we can do it cost competitively. While I concede that we are not cost effective in making low tech products such as shoes. I believe that American could have done as well if not better than the German and Japanese in making airbrush and sold it cheaper.

[Bgrigg]

Keilau,

Please send me your thoughts and comparisons on your new airbrush!

And you mean EVOLUTION, right? [;)]

[keilau]

Please send me your thoughts and comparisons on your new airbrush!

And you mean EVOLUTION, right?

I will post some pictures and OOB impression soon. A comparison with other AB that I have will take longer.

I also bought a 0.5 mm needle and nozzle for the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. It will be compared with the Badger Patriot.

The list of H&S reviews are really growing fast. Most are for the Infinity, but there are a few for the Evolution too.

[Torio]

I found in an airbrush forum (Kustom Kulture ?) a guy who said that the Satagraph 3 is a mix of Focus and Evolution made by H&S for Sata (fact is they seem to be more on the spray gun side, but they can assume an airbrush matching their specifications even if they did not make it themselves) and that the Satagraph 2 was a Gabbert Triplex. Well, the Satagraph 2 look a lot like a Gabbert Triplex and the Satagraph 3 shares the cup setting with Evolution. As an H&S addict, I can congratulate you for your equipment.