Beginner modeler wanting to know how to weather and detail

[oakbarnsleyfc]

Hi modeling community how are you doing I am a beginner modeler and have so many questions but cannot find answers and would like some advice if you could take the time to answer just a few of my questions it would mean the world to me (ps you don’t have to answer every question)

1 what glue do you use to glue canopies because I here some thick cement glues and super glues fog canopies

2 would you recommend using Mig washes as I want to make my jet fighters realistic and I can’t figure out are Mig washes safe to use on a plane that has been painted with enamel paint and when should I apply them some people say apply things like a clear varnish first then the wash other say just put it on there I’m so confused

3 now some people say you should highlight your panel lies to give them more detail with washes and other paints but others say it’s unrealistic and does not work

4 do you recommend using pigments on model planes I want to use AK interactive pigments

5 What ratio of thinner to enamel paint would you recommend

6 would you recommend applying primer to model planes I airbrush but I know you don’t

7 would you recommend using AK interactive weathering pencils to create chipping effects or should I just use this method online which recommends layering https://doogsmodels.com/2014/10/09/technique-multi-layer-chipping/

8 would you recommend using pastels to create weathering effects

9 How would you prime photo-etched parts

10 I have a badger 105 airbrush what psi would you recommend brushing

11 what other weathering techniques do you recommend

[Tojo72]

Wow,lots of good questions,sometimes its better to post them individually,some folks might be put off trying to sort thru everything I will try to give my thoughts on some of these.

1.there are some specialty glues like Gator Grip Glue,but regular Elmer’s works too.

2.Mig Washes are okay.They are a shortcut,but many wont spend the money and prefer to mix there own.They are just super thinned enamel colors.If you are using any wash,it should be the opposite of your paint.If you want to use Mig on your planes,you must seal the enamel paint with a acrylic clear coat to protect the base.

3.its up to you

4.its up to you

5.For airbrushing,it varies

6.yes,if you use an acrylic like Vallejo or Hataka or if you have resin and PE parts.For Enamels,not really needed unless plastic color isn’t compatible

9.i prime with Tamiya Extra Fine or Mr Surfacer 1200

That’s it for me

[Tickmagnet]

You can ask people all day long what is best and get a myriad of different opinions. So I’ll tell you what I did to get over the overwhelming information out there. I used Doog’s a lot he has some good demos. Here’s what worked for me. One cheap Tamiya Japanese Zero, skip the cockpit, assemple the fuselage, wings, canopy (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement works and doesn’t fog) and use it as a paint mule. Then get busy trying these techniques for yourself. That is the only way you will know what works for you. Good luck in your endeavor to find what works for you.

[the_Baron]

I understand that you’re looking for answers relatively quickly, too, but take some time to browse the forum, because there are threads on every one of your questions. You’ll find some valuable info in them.

[modelcrazy]

I understand that you’re looking for answers relatively quickly, too, but take some time to browse the forum, because there are threads on every one of your questions. You’ll find some valuable info in them.

[dto:]

Everyone of your questions have several answers. I’m sorry I can’t give you one solid answer on one because each answer varies depending what subject you’re building, what era, how much use it’s seen, the type of paint you’re using, type of thinner etc., etc.
I will tell you that Tamiya Extra Thin, thin and thick Bob Smith CA’s, Testers canopy glue are the glues I use. I’ve never tried AK washes but use oils exclusivley with the occasional Tamiya panel line accent color.

The 105 is a solid AB with years of trouble free service. Replace the needle and nozzel on occasion and you’re good to go. the pressure…it depends on what your painting, the paint and the effect.

Pigments can be problematic on planes if you don’t do them right. They’re better on armor IMO.

Highlighting panel lines, now that’s a subject that’s been knocked around back a forth. Again, personal prefrence and subject matter. Airline, no, warplane sometimes, tank, always, ship, depends on the scale. I will tell you that in my opinion, accenting the panels on a plane somehow make it look less toyish and more realistic. I don’t know why, but it just does IMO.

I recomend trying oils thinned with Terpenoid. Beautiful results and easly removed if you don’t like it. I use them for panel lines (along with my airbrush), rust, washes, dot filtering, wood effects and on and on. You can even paint with them although I’m not nearly that good.

I recomend Plasmo. He’s a young YouTube fellow that just has a gift. I have learned much from him and he shows all the media he uses.

https://www.youtube.com/user/idaemon

[GMorrison]

Hello,

Before most of these questions become relevant, as a beginner you should concentrate on the basic business of putting the kit together.

Careful alignment, gap correction, preservation of detail. Avoiding glue runs. Priming, sanding, priming, sanding and polishing are fundamentals. No amount of weathering, washes or other finishing touches can make up for a build that has fit problems.

Bill

[the_Baron]

Hello,

Before most of these questions become relevant, as a beginner you should concentrate on the basic business of putting the kit together.

Careful alignment, gap correction, preservation of detail. Avoiding glue runs. Priming, sanding, priming, sanding and polishing are fundamentals. No amount of weathering, washes or other finishing touches can make up for a build that has fit problems.

Bill

[Y]

[EdGrune]

Hello,

Before most of these questions become relevant, as a beginner you should concentrate on the basic business of putting the kit together.

Careful alignment, gap correction, preservation of detail. Avoiding glue runs. Priming, sanding, priming, sanding and polishing are fundamentals. No amount of weathering, washes or other finishing touches can make up for a build that has fit problems.

Weathering, even light weathering, tends to exacerbate construction and finishing problems on a model. It draws the eye to the problem.

Get the basics right first, then step (slowly) into weathering enhancements

[disastermaster]

the Baron

I understand that you’re looking for answers relatively quickly, too, but take some time to browse the forum, because there are threads on every one of your questions. You’ll find some valuable info in them.

Everyone of your questions have several answers. I’m sorry I can’t give you one solid answer on one because each answer varies depending what subject you’re building, what era, how much use it’s seen, the type of paint you’re using, type of thinner etc., etc.
I will tell you that Tamiya Extra Thin, thin and thick Bob Smith CA’s, Testers canopy glue are the glues I use. I’ve never tried AK washes but use oils exclusivley with the occasional Tamiya panel line accent color.

The 105 is a solid AB with years of trouble free service. Replace the needle and nozzel on occasion and you’re good to go. the pressure…it depends on what your painting, the paint and the effect.

Pigments can be problematic on planes if you don’t do them right. They’re better on armor IMO.

Highlighting panel lines, now that’s a subject that’s been knocked around back a forth. Again, personal prefrence and subject matter. Airline, no, warplane sometimes, tank, always, ship, depends on the scale. I will tell you that in my opinion, accenting the panels on a plane somehow make it look less toyish and more realistic. I don’t know why, but it just does IMO.

I recomend trying oils thinned with Terpenoid. Beautiful results and easly removed if you don’t like it. I use them for panel lines (along with my airbrush), rust, washes, dot filtering, wood effects and on and on. You can even paint with them although I’m not nearly that good.

I recomend Plasmo. He’s a young YouTube fellow that just has a gift. I have learned much from him and he shows all the media he uses.

https://www.youtube.com/user/idaemon

I totally agree.
Just be SURE to use turpenoid in the BLUE can.
Do not use the green can as it will destroy your effeorts.

[dmk]

Weathering that looks good has always been eluding me. I’m still not there yet, but one thing that has helped me is the book “Encyclopedia of Aircraft Modelling Techniques #4 - Weathering” by Mig Jimenez. It’s pricey, but it covers all the techniques and gives you step by step directions with really nice photography. They have a whole series of these books on other modeling subjects as well. Also by Mig Jimenez, “The Aircraft Weathering Magazine” is really good too. Each issue covers a different subject, such as cockpits, or desert aircraft, or sea planes, etc. I’ve been buying one every few months to build up a collection of these. (They also have other modeling subjects, but I’m mostly interested in aviation modeling, so I haven’t read the others)