Just a general question I am throwing ‘out there’!
Is it necessary to give styrene model parts a soapy bath? I do it for resin and have noticed how much easier it is to apply paints and have read others posts on bathing styrene, but am not sure how necessary it is?
Injected molded plastic is manufactured between two metal plates or masters. To allow faster production the masters are coated in release agent, or a light lubricant. This prevents the plastic from ‘sticking’ to the masters.
I always wash new sprues in warm soapy water & TSP (for washing walls before paint, a grease remover) Rinse in warm water & air dry.
This ‘grease’ on the plastic varies from manufacture to manufacture and can be heavy enough to repel solvent cement! When its this thick paint has no chance of adhering properly.
Before painting I wash (usually brush on) model assemblies in isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and allow to dry. This final preparation removes dust and any grease from handling. Know it dissolves masking tape glue so leave it off until the alcohol is dry. Also avoid handling assemblies with bare hands. I find a clean leather glove works well and keeps skin grease off the ready for painting model.
It depends on the mfg. I find many styrene kits do not need a wash but some do. I use Krylon primer, which is pretty hot, and seems to have a good tooth through a slight amount of oily residue. However, I indeed have had some styrene kits that I have had to wash, after finding the primer did not adhere or cover well. Real old kits picked up in flea markets seem to have the most problems, like old Lindberg kits.
Seems that some people do and some don’t. Personally, I wipe down the larger parts, fuselages, etc., with alcohol and then handle the parts with latex gloves to keep from transferring skin oils to the plastic. I also prime with Alclad II grey or white primer and that seems to help the paint adhere. I know of some modelers that soak the entire kit (anneal) in warm water with a bit of Dawn or similar dish washing detergent and then wipe it down with a plastic treatment preparation, but I’ve found that just wiping the larger pieces down with alcohol works just fine.
I wash my parts (boy, will that nannybot have fun with that one! [:D] ), understanding that for some kits it might not be necessary. For me, washing the kit belongs to the “thinking/dreaming/anticipating” part of the build process, right after “drooling at the box on the shelf at the LHS” and “opening the box and drooling over the parts”
Needless to say, with all the drool, I tuck in a napkin, so I won’t ruin the instructions and decals.
I usually do wash all the sprues before starting work on the model, but I don’t think it’s really critical on modern styrene models. However, I do think it is critical to wash all completed assemblies before painting, to get your greasy fingerprints off. Wearing gloves from then on is advisable, but I find it clumsy and uncomfortable, so I try to carefully handle the model by the edges only throughout the painting steps.
It’s absolutely neccessary, even with modern polystyrene models!!! I’ve worked in plastics factories most of my life, and no mould has yet been designed where you don’t have to use silicone realease agent to remove the part from its’ mould. This keeps the paint, and glue from adhering properly, and it can change the colour of your paint if you don’t use primer first. I ALWAYS wash all my models in hot soapy water before assembly. Leather gloves won’t help either! These have oils, and silicates in them from being debrided of fat, flesh, and from the colouring, and finishing process. A good pair of nitrile gloves is what you need, You can get these from the Home Depot. These don’t have latex in them, and they last a lot longer, and have better resistance to household chemicals.
I don’t use baths at all and so far nothing adverse during painting. What I do use is a new piece of paper towel with alcohol a few minutes prior to major painting, that’s all. The only parts I’m very careful with and I do use cloth gloves, are for those painted with Testors Metalizer because I don’t usually seal matalizer. With Aclad-II, I don’t even bother to use gloves either.
I have been building for a little while, and just tryed the bathing technique for the first time the other day and i have actually noticed a difference in my building and painting so i think its worth it and will do it on my kits in the future.