I’m a novice to the modelling game and have purchased a couple of models which I’d like to begin building. In my case I’m a fan of German armour so I have purchased Tigers, Panthers and a few other models. I have purchased several books on armour modelling to ensure I have a good idea of where to begin but I need advice on two issues which no book (not even basic modelling books) I have deals with plus a question regarding paint colour.
When builing an armour model, do you first glue the pioneers tools, tow chains, wooden jacking block etc. to the vehicle hull, then paint them, or do you paint them first, then glue them to the hull. If it’s the first (and a lot of pics in the books I have suggest this is how it’s done), then how would you paint on the underside of the chains, pioneer tools etc (i.e. the side closest to the hull). without painting the hull as well, as the clearance between things like the hull and pioneer tools (for example) is minimal.
When paining the hull machine gun, do you first glue the gun into the upper hull and then glue the upper and lower hulls parts together, then spray the hull and then hand paint the machine gun, or would you spray the two hull halves sererately, glue in the painted machine gun into the upper hull, and then glue the upper and lower hull together?
The first model I attempted (an initial production Tamiya Tiger 1) was terrible, and one of the things that I really didn’t like was the colour of the hull machine gun which I painted gun metal grey. Tamiya’s gun metal grey paint was far too silver. Can someone suggest a colour (perhaps another model paint manufacturer) that is closer to the genuine gun metal colour.
If you choose to attach the pioneer tools first, you won’t really have to worry about painting under them as most likely there will be no way to see it. Also realize that in combat theaters many times the tools were just painted over anyway.
Most of the time for myself, I leave them off and paint them after initial painting is done. However, I do a lot of modern stuff and they really don’t do much painting in the field.
As to the mounting of the MGs you are refering to, I have no info as I haven’t built a tank where that was an issue.
I personally use Model Master Gunmetal and then drybrush very lightly with silver or aluminum. Gives a great appearane IMO.
What would be the closest match for RAL 8020 in the Model Master enamel line? I am getting ready to start building a tamiya Tiger I early and want to get everything ready for when all my stuff (pe set) come in. Tiger33
As Scorn stated, if the tools and other hull attachments are to be painted the same, then just glue them on. Personally I tend to leave all the little addons, hand paint them separately, and glue to the hull after it is painted.
2)Glue everything on, hand paint gun
3)I actually use flat black as a basecoat, then drybrush heavily with Citadel Acrylics Boltgun Metal, and a very, very light drybrush of silver.
Thanks for the quick reply on my question Foster7155. As much of a fan that I am of the Tiger I, I am still learning a lot new stuff about it. And from the book that I am reading (Tiger I and Sturmtiger in detail by Culver and Feist) there is plenty of stuff that I didn’t know. Tiger33
Might I suggest, as a new armor modeler, that you pick up a copy of Mike Ashey’s book, Modeling Realistic Armor Models, Carl McLaughlin’s How to Model World War II German Armor, and of course, Shep Paine’s How to Build Dioramas. Although the first two focus specifically on building the models, Shep’s book goes into detail about weathering, groundwork, etc.
You can order them online right from this website, simply click on Our Products on the left toolbar.
I use a mix of Tamiya Flat Black and a little Royal Blue for the base coat, then I drybrush with metallic grey, then I use the edge of a pencil along the edges of the mg.
Welcome aboard!! Mr.Herne gives some great advice on those books. I have Shep Paines book from when it first came out and it’s dog eared as all get out.We all do certain things differently and you will find which ones work best for you.For example, I always attatch everything first and go back and detail paint after, I just find it works better for me. But that’s half the fun is finding out!!! I’m not a plant from the publisher either, they’re just great publications. I’ll get inspired to try different things sometimes just by looking at the pict.s. Have fun!!
You’ll get good advice from everybody in this forum. If your reading this forum and books before you build your models then you’ll do well.
If you choose to paint the tools before then you should make some choices when glueing them on. I usually scratch off a small area of the paint on the tool and the hull where I put the plastic glue. The small area won’t be seen and plastic glue doesn’t work well on paint. If you use superglue then it doesn’t matter. I also prepaint the wheels and tracks and then do the same paint scratch off on small areas where the tracks attach to the wheels.
HI Dean , I know that this is a bit late response but seeing a request from a fellow Southa African I could not resist to respond.
prepainting the small add-ons or adding them prior to painting is a matter of preferance.
Regarding the gun metal color I use enamal paint such as humbrol, which works finse for me but sangyo gunze have released some laquer paints in steel colors which I have tried and works great, and can be buffed for a shiny finish. these paints are readly availble here in Australia but I am not sure if they are availible in Johannesburg, there is a hobby shop in Boksburg that might stock them.
I find that on German armor especially, the extra detail on the pioneer tools and exterior stowage makes the difference. When it is well done, it makes for a very appealing and realistic model. I always do the tools separately, and consider thier application carefully, as a final assembly step prior to weathering.
