I know this may seem silly to all of the salty modelers, but what does everyone use for nose ballast in aircraft?? I’ve tried to use some of the lead weights for pine car racing, but the shapes are limited and too large for my 1:48 models. Any suggestions would be wonderful, as it seems to be a topic not widely touched upon, and I would like to close up the noses of a couple of aircraft soon.[#wstupid]
I use small metal beads wrapped in a ball of putty, stick it in while the putty is still wet, of course does not work for planes with windows in front.
[;)]
Lead fising weights are also good for tight spaces. You can flatten them with a hammer or cut them in half with ease. I imagine there is probably a fishing equipment store nearby, noting your location. People (like me) who live in the snow regions can probably find them cheaper this time of year.
Hope this helps !
I’ve used nuts and bolts, marbles, usually secured with hot glue. I’ve also used putty or plastersine. Depends on what I’ve got handy and the amount of space I have to work with.
I use small, lead fishing split shot as ballast. Normally I just glue them in the nose with Elmer’s white glue, but for irregular noses I use a pair of vise grips to flatten the shot down. I try to get it as thin as possible; that way it can be “molded” to fit the interior contour. Hope this helps.
HEY,
You could probably use BB’s also… They are easily flattened, but they are already pretty small.
Randy
BB’s are not a bad idea but not steel ones. Get lead if possible as they are heavier. I use #6 lead shot. This can be found at finer gunstores that carry reloading componets. After you assemble the fuselage halves (or before, depending on the model) these heavy little shot can be poured into the nose in any volume you need then glued in place with silicone rubber or superglue. I’ve been using them for years. Just make sure to get all the shot soaked good with glue or you may get a “straggler” that may wonder around the interior when the model is handled.
Something that is very heavy but not very cheap in comparison to lead is the new Tungsten fishing weights that are all the rage here for bass fishermen. They are quite a bit smaller than their equivalent lead counterpart.
Mike
I use those lead (i think) CO2 airgun bullets…they’re the ones with a hollowed out base. they’re real easy to flatten with a hammer (and great fun too)! tape them together and secure with hot glue. Then again, i don’t get to use this very often since i build more tail draggers than tricycle gear aircraft. [:)]
I use #6 shot poured into a mix of 5 minute epoxy. I put it any place it will fit forward of the main gear, engine nacelles, bulkheads. I coated the rear cabin bulkhead of the Monogram 1/48th Huey so it would sit on the skids properly.
You can also buy weights designed for a specific aircraft. They fit in gear wells, etc. - out of sight. They eliminate all the guess work. Contact Terry Dean, e-mail: nightiemission@aol.com. Great guy to work with. Very reasonable prices. He is continually expanding his inventory. Do a search on www.google.com for “nose weights” to see some of his weights and read some reviews.
Jim
I’m surprised that nobody mentioned material that is easiest to find of all- common old ordinary SOLDER. Comes on a spool, it’s easily shaped to go where you want it, and it isn’t that expensive. Unless you build a lot of ‘tailsitters’, it should last you quite a while.
Since I also cast bullets, it’s not to hard for me to find an appropriately shaped ‘weight’ to put in a nose.
Kent
Thank you EVERYONE!!! That was all extremely helpful. I may try all of the above, just to decide which one will fit me the best. I should have thought of beating the lead weights I got for the pine car into a decent shape, I never even considered beating it, but it sure sounds like it will be a blast to beat some lead into submission…Thanks again, and I look forward to posting the finished products on the forum!!
i used the stick on wheel weights they use on aluminum wheels. they come in various weights, so you know exactly how much weight you have in the nose. If you are working in a small area, lead shot will fill in nicely.
Chewing gum in the nose of my P-38 (few sticks of well chewed Juicy Fruit did the trick).
Didn’t work on the B-29. Shoulda gone with a whole pack of Big League Chew. Probably gonna take less of a kludged approach to the B-29 actually since it is a cut-away.
Melting fishing line weights into plates then ever so carefully applying in reclusive areas on the model still warm to the touch so as to stick to the interior, but not melt it, was an old trick my father mentioned he used to use.
About 10 years ago I had to balance the ruddervators off of a Bonanza. The process involves balancing the item by pouring bird shot into a paper cup and weighing the cup at a certain point in the process. When it was over I ended up with bunch of 25 lb bags of #6 lead birdshot of which I brought one home. I still have about 8 lbs of the stuff left and use it for nose weights (works great with Elmers glue) and use it also to help mix paint. (Just put a dozen or so in with the paint and shake - BB’s also work but not with acrylics - they rust and screw up the paint)
Depending on the size of the model, (and what country you are in), I use pennies and clay.
Lately, I managed to find a package of lead weights. Their only disadvantage is the hooks that were molded in with them. Once I cut off the hook though, I had an easy handle for bashing the lead.
I, like Kent, cast my own bullets. So I don’t have too much of a problem fitting the nose or under the nose with lead weight.
I use wheel weights for my lead. At the present I have 400 lbs. in 1 lb. ingots and another 350 lbs. of weights waiting to be processed!!! [:D]
One can NEVER have too much bullet casting lead!!!
Randie [C):-)]
Wrap silly putty around a metal nut and stick - easy peasy!
I use the lead weights that are used for fishing lines. Works great for me. HTH