I’m torn between the Krome and the Iwata HP-CS for my first airbrush.
I’ll mainly be base coating and pre-shading with enamels, so the .21 needle set wouldn’t be used as much as the .33 set. This leads to my first question:
In case I lose/break the tip/needle, which .33 parts does the Krome use, is it the ones that come with the Rage?
Does the Krome come with the self-centering nozzle feature, and is this even a big deal?
Which has better paint atomization?
Last, compared to the CS, how easy is it to clean the Krome?
I know Badger has great customer service, and cheaper parts. I’m really leaning towards the Krome, but if it’s easier to clean and maintain the CS, I’ll probably go for the CS.
Despite the small nozzle size, the Krome and the Iwata CS has the same linear flow angle. So there is little difference between the 0.21 mm and 0.35 mm nozzle in term of atomization and overspray. I have not tried the Krome with the 0.33 needle, but it does not sound like a good idea.
I have Hobby Lobby Store locally, therefore, I can get Iwata CS parts cheaper than Krome parts. (No shipping cost.)
Both are wonderful airbrush for modeling. You cannot go wrong with either. I have both, but use the CS more often. It is mostly a familiar factor issue because I got the CS much earlier. The bigger physical size of the CS nozzle is a plus when I have to take it apart for more thorough cleaning occasionally.
I have had both airbrushes. The Iwata is easier to use and clean but will not do the fine work the Krome will. If you are experienecd, the Krome is a far better detail brush. The Iwata is a better all around brush. I Have my Krome with the .22 set up and NEVER change it! I use a Badger Patriot 105 with the fine set up ( about .5 or below) for more general coverage work. You can do all airbrushing with the Krome at .22, It just takes longer. The Iwata is capable for a wide range and master of none. The Krome is a Great detail airbrush at less cost and lower parts cost also.
Hobby Lobby carries both the Iwata Eclipse series 0.35 and 0.5 mm nozzle/needle/crown parts. As expected, the 0.35 mm parts are more expensive. It is a good saving when using their 40% off coupon and avoiding paying for shipping.
The Krome 0.21 mm needle has a 6 degrees linear flow angle which is very good for general purpose work, but not as fine as that of the SOTAR 20/20. I do not see what can be gain from changing to the 0.33 mm needle which has a double taper at the end and a larger linear flow angle. See Don Wheeler’s review of the Badger Rage for more detail.
I have not used the 0.33 mm setup with the Krome and am not saying that it is bad. I am saying that there is nothing to gain from paying the extra parts to make the change from the 0.21 mm setup. Sorry that I did not make my point clearer in my earlier post.
Didn’t know about the double taper. I really can’t see the point in having them at all. I’ve never had any problem with normal tapered needles, not even silly long taper needles as some of the older Rich’s.
The Iwata Revolution HP-CR has a double taper. See photo on this page. So does the Grex Genesis XBi. The Sotar medium needle has a tiny secondary taper right on the end.
A double taper on a larger needle allows finer trigger control at the beginning of the pull.
I think it depends on the individual. If they take the time to learn how to take care of it, it’s a fine airbrush. But, any airbrush with a 0.22mm nozzle is going to be more fragile and require more careful thinning. And, most users don’t really need that narrow a spray angle. The 0.33mm nozzle gives a considerably wider pattern, but it is still very tiny and delicate.
The double taper really isn’t noticeable on a needle .050 or below. There’s more of a taper on the CR needle than there is on the 105 Patriot needle, both are listed as .050mm, but I really don’t notice that the taper is there when spraying. Move up to the .070 needle like the Badger 360 or Anthem use and I definitely notice the transition. To me at least, that needle/tip combination is a little touchy when you’re trying to spray the finest pattern possible with it. You can with practice but one wrong move and you’re at a much wider spray. And for what I use that needle for, that’s fine. Whether it’s in my 105 or 360, it’s for general coverage or primer.
Originally there was a slight double taper on the fine needle in my Sotar that’s listed as .021mm. But after bending the tip a couple times, straightening and polishing it isn’t there anymore. When it was there you coldn’t tell it. Or, I couldn’t. Not much difference between the needle and tip in a Sotar and a Renegade.
Let’s face it, there’s a learning curve with whatever brush you start with. And when/if you get another, you’ll have to learn again. It’s true that the smallest needles and tips will be more finicky as far as paint mix and pressure but once you learn that, you can do anything. Maybe something in the mid-range would be a better starting point but the Krome comes with an .033 set-up and from what I understand(no, don’t have one) it will flow a good bit of paint. With a CS you have a choice that doesn’t require any tools to swap. Same with a 105, 155 or 360 Badger. They can all use the same parts and require no tools unless you want to take apart the airvalve. Personally, I get tired of swapping needles and tips and regulators around real quick, that’s one reason for multiple brushes.
