. by theirishavenger, on Flickr
I picked this up because it looked specially formulated with plastic in mind. Maybe they mean bare plastic, but what’s the point of that since bare plastic is often glossy anyway?
Anywho, see the missiles in the background? They were hit with a coat of Model Master white primer lacquer first and had plenty of time to cure up–like 3 days. I then sprayed this Rustoleum on it to gloss them up for weathering and decals. The Rustoleum ate into the white and caused it to crack and melt. I think the plastic is ok. Looks like it’s pretty hot stuff.
Just a heads up. I guess my search goes on for a nice clear gloss from a rattle can that dries fast.
Chris
The clue is on the can… Seals, Protects and REVITALIZES. Yup, that’ll ruin a perfectly good paint job.
…That’s why nothing from a Hardware store goes on my models…
Nathan - I use Rustoleum Primer, and clear coat from Walmart and never had issues with them. Heck even back in my youth, I used hardware store spray can paint from my grandfather’s stash on car kits. That’s why everyone should always tests the product on scrap kits.
I have to say that I have used-- and still use-- this specific product and the only issue I ever had were the results of my own mistakes-- spraying too close to the model or spraying too long in one place, which caused some build-up issues. I have used it over rattle can spray jobs and over water based Polly S acrylics applied with an airbrush.
Well, maybe it’s just me. I hear so many comments on this and other boards about the virtues of this product or that being as good quality and cheaper in price than a modeling-specific product. You hear Krylon and Rustoleum bandied about frequently. Almost always I do run a test on a piece of scrap, but not this time. My fault, I guess. At least another coat of white primer will probably fix it.
If I’m not mistaken Testors is also owned by Rustoleum (or the other way around?) So I will use their primer and clear coat in rattle cans. I’m not too keen on the Krylon brand though.
I actually have a can of that stuff for a project of restoring the clarity to some plastic headlight lenses on my truck. I saw the piece on YouTube and is recommended after wet sanding the plastic because it’s UV resistant. I was reading the label and says “Test paint in a hidden area first”.
I have used the Krylon decanted primers, specially on soft rubber tracks and it has worked fine but those clear finishes seem to be a different case. Even though the modeling clear coats are a bit more expensive, they do last a long time and are compatible with modeling paints.