I got out my Tamiya M1A2 Abrams to look it over to make sure all the parts were in there after reading the group build and found that my tracks had broken in half. I thought about trying to fix them but then ordered some AVF Club’s tracks for it instead.
Did I make a mistake? How hard are the AFV Club’s tracks to put together?
Extremely easy to use,very nice,and workable too !!
I agree, very easy assemble and easy to mount on your vehicle.
It depends on the set. I used some on my KFZ-251 and they were quite a challenge- the pads did not want to glue to the track shoes, and quite fragile to put together. Conversely, the set I am using on my Centurion have been excellent.Their Rubber band tracks are not very good in my experience. The ones for 113 series vehicles I have keep snapping- great detail, but poor longevity.
I used AFV indies on an Italeri Sherman.They worked out fine.
The main problem with this style of track is that the end connectors often appear askew when they are assembled. On an actual tank (with this style of live track) the end connectors are tight and in line.
While this is an M88A1, you can see how the end connectors are all aligned and nice and straight.
Often when modelers assemble the AFV tracks, the end connectors end up all crooked like this. On the actual tank, these would be called “dead” track blocks meaning either the rubber bushing was worn or the track pin itself was cracked, meaning that track block needed to be replaced.
In my experience, the AFV Club indi-link track are great, esp. their M1, M48, and M60 tracks. The key is to put them on tightly and you should get the straight, live-track look.
I agree with HeavyArty.
I do have a word of caution. A couple of times, after I did washes with enamel thinner, some of the end connectors broke. Maybe the thinner was a little too hot and melted the very thin plastic. Just be careful if you do wash on these tracks.
-Jesse
[dto:] Just had that exact problem with my M48 tracks. I had one track just blow apart in like, five places, and many more end connectors dropping off while trying to repair and install the tracks.
It would seem that you should weather them with only acrylic washes.
I agree with Gino, but many of the older site members remember my M40…after washes the disintergrated as I tried to “pull” them tight. You may want to start with a coat of future to protect the styrene…though I have to admit I have not tried this. After my frustration I have gone with metal track whenever I can. It’s more expensive but my time is worth more than the extra cost…IMO
BE VERY CAREFUL…sometimes require injector pin mark work but can be VERY delicate
Rounds Complete!!
What about using oil washes thined with distilled turpentine? Or would that be too strong too? Would priming the tracks first help
I had planed on painting the tracks and tank with acrylics.
I put a set on my M48A2GA2 and didn’t have any trouble with them. I use low odor white mineral spirits for my oil washes. Having said that, I’ll concede the connection points for the tracks are small and fragile; perhaps a non toxic form of wash would be the safer thing to do.
I am working on a set of AFV Club tracks for an M-47 right now myself. I can assure you that there will be no thinners near these things once they’re done. I will be painting them totally with water based paints.
Hello,I plan to do Revell’s m-47 soon,can you give me the # of that track set you used ?
thanks,Anthony
Yes sir, It’s the T84E1 (AF 35037). It’s made for the M-26-M-46 but it’s good for the M-47 as well. I will tell you that it used as different number of track links than either. I am using 86 links per side and it’s nice and tight. I haven’t done anything to the kit suspension so that should be the same on yours. My kit is the Italeri boxing but your Revell one is the same kit.
Hope this helps.
thanks-dawg