This may have been covered elsewhere, but I couldn’t find it, so…
I purchased two Tamiya 6 x 6 truck models, an airplane re-fueling truck and a cargo truck. Got the re-fueling truck last week and and all is going well. Just got the cargo truck and find, although the plastic parts, instructions, etc are quite similar, the latter truck has a metal chassis (not yet sure whether or not I like that). Is there anything special I need to know about attaching plastic parts to the metal chassis?
In a related question, are the kits with metal chassis older kits while the newer kits are plastic throughout? If so, how does one know the difference when puchasing a kit?
TIA for any insghts.
No idea on telling them apart other than going to reviews or the makers website for a kit rundown.
As for attaching metal to plastic either CA (superglue) or clear epoxy.
I use super glue or epoxy to attach metal to plastic. SG works really well.
Ditto.
I have not tried the new UV hardening stuff to do that yet, but I intend to try it.
When mating dissimilar parts like metal to plastic I try to use epoxy over super glue as much as possible as super glue is brittle and tends to get very brittle over time. I have had parts fall off after a couple of years in my display case due to super glue failure.
Depending on the situation super glue may be the only option but it is something to consider.
what epoxy do you use? I have had problems with epoxy.
I use JB Weld 5 min clear, in the .85 oz. double tuEasy to dispense and mix, and you can just push out what you need, not much waste.
Depending on the circumstances, I use clear parts glue, the standard “hobby glue” in the tube and the liquid “capillary action” type glues. I have not tried CA or epoxy adhesives. I need JB weld for another (home repair) project, so I think I will try that.
plane nuts, I have always lightly sanded the metal and used clear gorilla two part epoxy. Works for me. Aardvark
I tend to use the hardware store epoxy that comes in side by side syringes. I get 5,30,and 1 hour epoxy. That way I can use the cure speed I need based on application. I separate the syringes into two so that I can dispense part a and b separate and mix on a pallet when I am ready.
The brand is usually loktite but the brand usually does not matter since I am not interested in the bond strength as much as not getting brittle over time. Even cheap epoxy is strong enough for models. I have used harbor freight epoxy on builds that are years old now with no issues.
Gator Glue is another option for attaching metal and styrene. I used CA on my Tamiya 1/48 Panther for the same purpose.
A side blurb on the metal parts on some 1/48 Tamiya kits. I don’t know how true this is, but supposedly the reason for the metal hulls or chassis was due to some sort of family business deal. A relative of the Tamiya’s had a metal business that was needing more business. The model company then added that feature to incorporate them to their 1:48 Armor line. At least that’s what was told to us at a recent AMPS meeting by a member in the know about the Tamiya 1:48 line.
I hear you !
What I have been doing is using Bondic Brand .That’s the one with the U.V. light for setting it . Plus refills can be had at Hobby Lobby , Home Depot and Hobby Town