This is my first time building an Asuka model and I have great interest in the M4A3 Sherman with a T-23 turret. This will also be my first time using an Iwata miniature spray gun #RG-3L-3 with 1.0 mm nozzle set. I plan to use Vallejo Surface Primer and Vallejo #71.043 olive drab paint with retarder #70.597.
My objective with this project is to improve my assembly and paint skills. I have read quite a bit about this model and hope it is as good as people say it is. I was forewarned there is a seam issue with the upper and lower halves of the turret, which can be solved with a product like Mr. Surfacer. So here I go with what I hope will be a fun and educational adventure.
Harold, I think you’ll be very happy with the Asuka kit. I’ve built two of their Sherman’s and liked them very much. The only real problem I had was with the little pieces of foam they want you to use to allow the bogie suspension arms to work. I just could not keep all three pieces in position while I added the other items that need to be enclosed in the bogie unit housing. Instead I used the plastic spacers that were supplied and glued them in position.
There are some small parts that really add to the detail of the kit, but since you just finished that 3" gun, you shouldn’t have any problems with those. I’ll be interested to watch your progress. All the best, John
Same here, I think you’ll really enjoy this kit. If you can build an AFV Club kit this one ought to be a snap!
I used the foam pieces on the kit I built. Don’t really see the point of them though, the workable suspension didn’t work that well. Omiting them I don’t think you lose that much.
Gamera, I started assembly this morning and got to thinking last year you recommended Vallejo Surface Primer if I recall correctly? Do you thin the Vallejo primer and if so, what do you use for thinner?
Yeah, I like the Vallejo Primer a lot. I normally just mix in about 30% or so window washer fluid from the auto parts store. It’s about a buck or so US and is water with a little alcohol added. You can of course use any thinner you want including just plain water. 30% thinner works for me, you may need to adjust more or less depending on your airbrush, climate, and individual taste.
Gamera, I’m going to use an Iwata miniature spray gun with 1.0 mm nozzle. The recommended air pressure at the inlet to the gun is 36 PSI. I will start with no thinner and then thin 10%, 20% and 30% to compare results. The gun also has an adjustable air cap which will be set ahead of time to optimize atomization at the nozzle. There are to many variables to guess how this new gun will preform with Vallejo Surface Primer, but I’m hopeful it will significantly reduce overspray and give me a smooth finish. I’ll let you know how it works out, thanks for your advice.
I completed steps 1 through 5 of 22; track assembly, drive sprocket and idler wheel assembly, differential cover and suspension assembly. The suspension assembly with its three foam rubber pieces did not present as much of a problem as I thought it would.
Next step is the lower hull assembly which looks like it will take an entire session. I generally start each session in the early morning with a cup of coffee and work for about two-hours. I found that if I limit my work to two-hours at a time, I am more productive and make less mistakes.
Below is a link to my very short video of testing the suspension assembly to make sure it works correctly and a method I use for sanding road-wheels using a Proxxon hobby sander.
Here’s the simple way to use the foam inserts. Cut them smaller than suggested – you simply want their thickness – you don’t need them to completely match the edge of the upper two volute springs.
Once assembled, I seat my kit so all twelve road wheels are level. Then I glue the suspension arms-- I have no need for them to remain movable.
Gamera and Roy, thank you for the encouragement and ideas. This is only my second Sherman tank model and so far, I really like the Asuka engineering compared to Tamiya. I have not decided how to use this model yet, but I may replace the Tamiya M4A3 in my Road to Bastogne diorama with this Asuka model.
I completed step 6, the lower hull assembly in two sessions (about 2-hours each). I continue to be impressed with how accurate the pieces go together. The next step is the top hull assembly and it will probably take about the same amount of time as the lower hull assembly. I’m not in a hurry, but I’m keeping track of how much time I spend on this model.
I completed steps 7 through 9, hull top and driver hatch assembly with exception of photo etched guards over periscopes, they will come later. I cemented the top and lower hulls and differential cover together. Every piece fit perfectly down to the tiny hinges on the periscope covers. So far, I am really enjoying this Asuka model. Next step is more upper hull parts and engine deck installation.
Harold, It looks like it’s coming along great. I also thought Asuka did a good job with the build of the lower hull. Quite a few parts, but it makes for a strong base for the rest of the tank. Good idea on waiting until later for the periscope guards. I installed mine early in the build and must have knocked off the one over the driver’s hatch at least twice!
I did think having the lower hull in separate parts you cement together to form a box was a little much but as long as you’ve got things square and straight it’s not a problem.
John and Gamera, I agree with you the lower hull was over engineered, but the parts fit together without a problem and the finished product is very strong. I completed steps 10 through 12 and now I’m ready to add the VVSS suspension and track. The track will be painted separate from the suspension, but the suspension will be painted as part of the lower and top hull assembly. The reason I’m doing it this way is to make sure the suspension has a strong bond with the lower hull.
