I’m working on Takom’s Tiger I and it has link and length tracks with separate guide horns. They have you attach the horns to the track in groups of ten. Once they are dry, snip off the attaching bar, and voila, half of the horns fall off. There is no place to put the glue except a pinpoint size attachment point on each side of the horn. After almost 2 days of trying different methods of gluing and snipping, I’ve assembled the 8 links I need for the turret, but I’ve given up on assembling the rest of them. I’m ordering a set of Friuls for this guy.
My question for anyone who has assembled these types of tracks is how do you do it? I know several manufacturers have kits that feature these tracks and am curious how others have attacked them. They can’t all be as bad as these, can they? I doubt I’ll be trying another set of these anytime soon.
I put together a set of Modelkasten track for a Type 3 Chi Nu IJA tank, and it had separate guide horns that attached to the tracks just along the perimeter of the contact surface, much like your Tiger.
I just set the guide horn in place and then dabbed a bit of Tamiya Extra Thin cement on the joint. I did a little adjustment before the glue dried, then cleaned up the sprue stubs afterwards. It was tedious, but relatively straightforward.
Assembling indie-link tracks is pure drudgery, but the results are (usually) worth it. Good luck with your Tiger!
Well designed kit link tracks are fine but sometimes I think the designers lost their minds.
Meng Bergpanther two horns per link which weren’t tooo horrible but note where the three HUGE sprue attachments are located. Yes they put them inside the concaves that are supposed to mate up with the raised section of the next link. Had to get in there as close as possible with the snips and then carve each to proper shape. 522 times! It took me days.
On the flip side the RFM Leopard was genius with the attachments on the flat ends and all you had to do was trap the pins between the top and bottom parts of each link. They even provided a nice jig to make it even faster and easier. The whole works was do in a couple of hours.
I have a bit of a machoistic streak in that I always insist on using kit parts no matter what the hassles are so will soldier through the worst of tracks.
I’ve been through that struggle too, and it’s definitely challenging. One method that worked for me was using a slow-curing super glue or plastic cement, which gives you more working time to adjust the horns before they set. Some modelers also recommend reinforcing the attachment points by applying a tiny amount of putty or epoxy to add strength. Additionally, using a magnifying glass during assembly can help with precision. Patience is key, and sometimes taking breaks can prevent frustration. Good luck with the Friuls; they’re a solid choice and usually more forgiving!
I have a bit of a machoistic streak in that I always insist on using kit parts no matter what the hassles are so will soldier through the worst of tracks.
This is a fair enough approach. If manufacturers want to create sets of tracks that are absolute ball aches, then the discerning hobbyist might reasonably exercise their right to choose a different manufacturer. I get having a photo etched brass market for improving details, but assembling aftermarket track is often more about improving quality of life than quality of outcome.
They sure do improve my quality of life when I don’t have to fiddle with tracks that would drive me to drink. It just isn’t worth hassling with something when there are better alternatives. And as far as outcome is concerned, most of these AM sets beat out the kit tracks in looks as well as ease of assembly. But to each his own.
I dunno guys, I find aftermarket tracks to be a LOT more work than what comes in a kit. But I am after the authentic track sag, or better detail if the kit “rubber bands” are poor or have no detail on the inside surfaces.
It’s a love-hate relation for me. I want the higher level of detail the aftermarket tracks offer, but do not enjoy the tedium of assembling 180 links with 5 parts each. Some are better than others. Modelkasten makes beautiful injection molded indie link tracks that usually assemble quickly, but they are fragile. Mini Art’s tracks look terrific, but some have that “pancake batter” flash that has to be carved away. Metal tracks are a little coarser in detail but are super durable.
That being said, I do punt once in a while, especially if the kit rubber band tracks represent “live” track, are molded well, and are flexible enough to prevent tearing off the idlers.
Oh of course, and I’m not for a second criticising people who make that (perfectly reasonable) QoL choice, just the kit manufacturers who’ll sell you crappy OOB tracks thinking “Meh, aftermarket’ll fix it”
but modeling is supposed to be fun,not water torture,of course I realize everyone has a modeling budget.
