What is the difference between a primer and one that rust oleum advertises on the rattle can as primer plus paint? Will rust oleum be compatible with acrylic paint?
Can’t answer about Rustoleum, never used it!
Generall most acrylics will go over most primers, but as ever, test it on something else first.
Primers in general have many functions, etching, rust prevention, prep for painting, etc.
For Modelling Purposes: It helps give a smooth uniform surface for further painting, especially if you are combining PE, Aluminium barrels, resin, or plastics in different colours.
Different brands have different properties.
A favourite is Acrylic Rattle-can primer from the Auto Shop/Car Factors. Available in Grey, white, (& no longer in black in the UK at least)
this has a lacquer/Cellulose smell, & bites into the plastic, aluminium, PE, fillers, etc.
This also can be further worked, filled, sanded, if needed.
Also useful on certain plastics, such as Fonderie Miniatures, which is the only thing I have found that will stick to it, & ally barrels.
Others use Vallejo Polyurethane Primer, needs to be sprayed, tough, but doesn’t like being heavily sanded.
Others like straight black Vallejo black, or Humbrol Enamels, & others favour the black primer intended for the range of metallics by a company whose name escapes me at the moment!
Krylon primer is another popular primer. I learned about it from the old modeling newsgroup rec.models.scale (anyone remember newsgroups). It is my goto for priming. I am pretty sure it is a lacquer. Very similar to auto primers such as Duplicolor primer.
Rustoleum’s “Primer+Paint” label is confusing, if not misleading. Upon first glance, I infer that the product serves both purposes and using a separate primer is not necessary. But that is not the case.
Read the TDS for the Painter’s Touch. The instructions recommend using Painter’s Touch Primer for the paint. As it turns out, the Painter’s Touch is a line of products that include matte paint, clear coats, and primers. You just have to figure out which one you have.
Either their primer or matte paint will be ‘compatible’ with hobby acrylics. But I have a feeling their primer would be a better choice as a primer coat.
Chris
I use Krylon primers all the time. I decant them into a small plastic container then into my AB cup. They work specially well on the soft rubber band tank tracks and will provide superior adhesion for acrylics. I use the black primer for dark colors and white or grey for lighter ones. It’s an excellent primer for resin and pe and I highly recommend them.
I have had terrible results using MM acrylic primer as it will sometimes lift after masking no matter how well the surface was prepped.
I used Krylon primer straight from the rattle can on my rather large model of the Spruce Goose because the spray area of my Badger Patriot AB was too fine . I was pleased with the results and had no subsequent problems with the top coat of Testor’s enamel. I do think however, that the Krylon was rather “thick” and had to be carefull not to hide the details on the model.
I though about decanting the Krylon and thinning it a bit but was unsure of what to thin it with. plasticjunkie, do you thin your primer and if so, what with ?
Jay jay
That is why I decant it because it sprays too thick and the AB is a better control tool. No I do not thin it cause it’s been properly thinned when canned.
Yes, Krylon primer is quite thick. I like this because it covers up small flaws, scratches, defects in schemes, etc. However, to keep from obscuring too much detail, if the filling capability is not needed, you can spray it pretty thin. The nozzles from Krylon are quite good and do allow a very thin coat. I particularly do this when priming PE frets.
You shouldn’t have any problem at all spraying this primer with a “large” needle and head.
You just have to be careful with primers. Some of them will not tolerate “hot” lacquers. For instance, last year I ruined a VERY expensive, original AMT AMX Javelin kit by priming it with Tamiya Gray Primer and then spraying Model Car World lacquers over it—the paint was too hot for it and crinkled and crazed it all over. I couldn’t remove it cleanly enough to salvage it it; it “met the boot”. You see “primer” and think “Oh OK, cool; I can spray anything over this now”, but I know NOW that Tamiya’s otherwise excellent primers are not adequate for “hot” lacquers.
I now decant Duplicolor gray primer and spray that. It’s ok for hotter paints.
Many thanks for all the input guys. I always take your good advice to heart and it has improved the quality of my builds tremendously.
Just an FYI. The primers that claim to fill small scratches do so by being a little bit “thicker” than other primers. There is absolutely nothing wrong with these but just be aware that if you are painting something with very fine detail that detail may be covered up. The paint doesn’t know the difference between a scratch and fine detail.
If I’m doing a model that I want to have a smooth shiny surface or has intricate detail I use Tamiya primer in a spray can. It goes on smooth as a babys derriere! [:)]
I decided to try the rustoleum. primer plus paint. What I found out is it covers the model pretty good, but it seems sticky to the touch even after leaving it for like 45 mins to an hour unlike the krylon. I hope the stickiness goes away.
I have found that Rustoleum dries and cures slower than Krylon.
Just got back from Walmart with a spray can of gray primer from “HomeShades”. Anyone try this brand? They were out of the ColorPlace.