I’m back to my first armor project (a Tamiya Tiger I, late) after listening to feedback on zimmerit application, finally deciding to use an aftermarket zimmerit set (PE brass), and then waiting for over a month to get it. I have a couple of questions and observations. First, the zimmerit “pattern” on the PE set is MUCH finer than anything I was going to be able to achieve using putty and small screwdriver or chisel tip. I’m assuming the PE pattern is scale accurate, which just confirms for me how difficult and time consuming it would be to recreate this pattern using putty— and that just makes it more puzzling that the manufacturer doesn’t just mold it into the kit parts to begin with.
Anyway, now that I have the PE set, it seems clear that the zimmerit must be applied to the individual parts prior to assembly. I’ve never used a PE set before and I’d appreciate any tips any of you may have about this process. Is CA cement the best to use? Is there a joining or filling technique that needs to be done where the PE panels meet at corners or edges? Do the holes for gluing attachments all need to be redrilled? Any tips for creasing or bending the PE panels? Thanks guys,
CA is the glue to use. Glue around the edges and let the glue be drawn under the PE zim panels via capaliary action. At the corners and edges you’ll probably need to use a little putty to blend. The biggest problem that I have seen with PE zim is when the application makes it obvious that the zim is applied in sheets glued to the tank as opposed to putty applied to the tank. Any places where attachment holes are covered would either need to be drilled or alternatively cut off the pin and surface glue the part.
For creasing, use a metal straightedge. You can but PE beanding tools, but I have never had an issue with using metal straightedges or exacto knives depending on the length. For gradual curves, such as going round the back of the turret, you should be able to pre-bend on the part itself. For real tight curves, such as a Panther’s mantlet, you can place the part on some cardboard, roll an exacto handle over the part with heavy pressure.
Well I’ve done this a few times, but I have gotten away from it since I mastered the hot iron technique.
It’s pretty straight forward, the bad thing about PE is that it just doesn’t look defined enough after paint in 1/35th scale-Here is a King Tiger I did a few years ago. It is the DML kit, but the PE set (Verlinden) was for the Tamiya kit, so I had to putty some edges and trim the set to fit:
and finished:
Here is my Porsche Tiger B with hot iron zim, I like this much much better:
and finished:
Good luck with the PE zim, I used CA to attach, roughing up the plastic helps. Let me know if you are interested in doing it yourself with the soldering iron, it is very easy and foolproof, a lot of guys are scared of it, but it is a great method.
Hey crockett am about to start a late tiger and plan to do zimmerit for first time. I am also a little apprehensive about the “hot iron technique” Can you tell us all how you do it? Please be as specific as possible. Thanks for any help!
Yes I have… here on the Tamiya late Tiger, turned out good, but what a mess and hassle IMHO. Also had a real problem with the Mili Putty not sticking to the plastic…
First step is to pick up a 15W soldering iron. I got mine from Radio Shack for $10.00 USD. Plug it in and run some practice on scrap from the spares box…
Next, get an automatic pencil and a ruler…draw the vertical lines about 2.5 to 3mm apart. You MUST do this to maintain a straight factory pattern, as shown here:
Then, simply melt in the horizontal grooves within the boundaries, drawing the tip backward,as shown:
I have used this technique on many builds and haven’t had one accident or problem. Many are afraid of burning holes, melting etc., but at 15W, it’s just not that hot. If you can draw a line with a pencil, you can do this. It is quick, clean and cheap, and allows access into small areas with ease…check it out:
What exactly is a “hot iron” which you used for your Zimmerit and do you have any idea where I could purchase one (I’d have to do this on-line as the modelling shops here in South Africa are limited.
Hey crockett,
You make a good point to at least give it a try. One quesion. What tip do you use in the iron? I can’t see in the photos you show. Thanks Again!
Hot iron is a tool that is used for soldering (for electronic equipment assembly) and you can get it from your local electronic part shops or your local hardware stores.
Sorry for the delayed response (been traveling on business).
A standard 15W soldering iron is what you need to buy. They go for around $10.00 USD here in the states at Radio Shack.
The tip I used is the standard conical tip provided with the iron. The tip appears to be about the same diameter as a pencil lead. I have since purchased the “Hot Knife” offered by Dremel. It comes with a variety of tips including an exacto blade. This tool is primarily used in wood working, to “burn” into wood plaques and such. It is a valuable tool for this application as well.
It is extremely important that you use 15W or less. Some irons are 30W only and they will burn up your model. Some have a switch to operate between 15 and 30W. Make sure you are at 15W!
I picked up a soldering iron at Radio Shack (I think the exact one you mentioned), and have been practicing on some scrap to the point where I can come close to what you’re doing (although it still seems like a tedious waste of time when the manufacturer could just mold it in). Anyway, I think your zimmerit looks great on the tanks you show, but I’m wondering if it’s scale-correct. When I compare the “coarseness” (if that’s a word) of the pattern you create with the “fat pencil point” on the iron to that on the PE zimmerit set I purchased for my Tamiya Tiger I, they are strikingly different. The PE set is much finer— by maybe 2-3 times. Can you enlighten me? Also, can you please explain a little more about how you use the Dremel hot knife (?) you mentioned in another reply for creating zimmerit? Thanks for your contributions.
Nice info Crockett, I was thinking about your technique lately while I was zimming my AFV Club late Tiger with putty.Man what a work out. Wish I would have tried the soldering iron…lol
I got my soldering iron at Wal-Mart for $8 bucks guys, comes in handy for alot of things.
I’m not even sure what zimmerit is, but I think I may have an answer for the difference in fineness between the soldering iron and PE. If that Tamiya Tiger happens to be 1/48, that would explain the difference. It looks like Steve is showing pictures from a 1/35 kit. Hope this is the case and I’m not being just a complete idiot. Hehe. If you are building a 1/48 kit, perhaps you can get a smaller tip and achieve the same effect.
PE zim has gotten alot of knocks for it’s being out of scale and lacks defineness. I just don’t care for the detail myself, usually too uniform. I prefer Cavalier Resin. I might try puttying someday or even the iron.
Tigermans comments are spot on when it comes to PE zim. If you look at the this Henschel T2 with the Verlinden set, you will see as I did that the zim is ‘weak’ in its definition after paint and weathering:
and this early A Panther as well:
The Porsche T2 that I used the iron on, when viewed by the eye shows a defined pattern, and for modeling purposes, is just right IMHO. Through the camera lens at close up - it can appear a little over bearing. But, if you look at the hull machine gun blister…this is a resin part from Verlinden, the zim strokes are molded in, they are approx. the same depth as my manually applied strokes. As far as length-about 2.5mm is correct for 1/35th, which I marked out on the hull and turret with pencil and ruler before I started:
The great thing about this method is if you think you have an issue with depth, you simply sand until you are happy. After more practice, you will find that it is relatively simple to control the depth of the trenc as you proceed. Just make sure you mark off your hull and turret with penciled demarkation lines before you start to melt plastic.
In 1/35 scale, I agree that PE zimmerit is too flat and lacking the roughness in the detail. In 1/72 though, it looks pretty good. I’ve also tried Atak zimmerit in 1/72 scale (resin), and I think it looks better, but is more difficult to work with in this scale.
I did use the hot iron method once with my Panzer VI Porsche turret but instead of using the point of my soldering iron I attached the zimmerit texturizing kit of Tamiya attaching if to the solderring tip with wires. when it got hot it was a breeze raking it on the surface. Needs some cleaning of the teeth every now and then though.
