Hi, I’m going to use Future first time, in aircraft, to apply decal. What is the best way to apply? hand-brushing or airbrushing? Future must be thinned or it can apply as is?
Thanks so much for your help.
OVL.
Airbrush! No need to thin it! Shoot it straight from the bottle!
Ive never tried airbrushing future, but I find it works perfectly fine hand brushed. Any runs (from air/hand brushing) are easily cleaned up with a scrubbing from a Qtip dipped in future. Just rub at it and the run will go away.
Airbrushing Future helps you put down thinner coats. As Miss Owl points out, you can hand brush it. [:D[ I just prefer to mist two or three light coats.
Will work both ways perfectly.
Be aware that a hand brushed coat will be more shiny as opposed to an airbrushed one (more of a satin gloss) so it will need a dull coat after the decalling to take away the “toy appearance” if you will.
Dont worry about brushmarks when hand brushing. Future has excellent self levelling properties.
And lastly, if you decide on airbrushing, cleaning is best with some ammonium. Just be aware of the fact that ammonium sitting in an airbrush will eat away at the metal inside. Be sure to dry it thoroghly and/ or flush the ammonium out with water after cleaning.
Other than that, do what you prefer[;)]
Richard
Straight Future. I back away from the model about 6 - 8 inches with my airbrush and spray a few fairly thorough, thin coats. Let it dry at least 24 hours before applying decals, especially if using a decal solution such as solvaset. Once applied, allow another 24 hours for the decals to set, then put a final coat of Future on to ‘seal’ the decals.
Thanks all for yours tips. Those are very usefull.
best regards,
OVL
This whole post should be included in the magazine
My [2cnts]. Spray straight from the bottle. When finished, clean AB with Windex then a little water to flush out the AB. If using a brush, same procedure. Clean brush with Windex then water. Been working like a charm for years.
Jim [cptn]
OVL, thanks so much for the question! I have a bottle on the way now and I was going to ask the same thing. And thank you to you all for the responses. They are very useful. I can’t wait to try this out.
Eagle90
For some reason, if i spray it then I get a pebbly finish which will go away after spraying over with clear flat. I’ve tried different air preassures and distances and still get the pebble finish. I hand brush several light coats for a glass smooth finish that will kill any decal silvering. I’m extra cautious so wait at least 2 days before applying decals and then brush again to seal the decals then wait a couple of days to spray clear flat over the entire model. You have to let the Future cure otherwise it will react to the decal solution by forming a white haze. Also brush Future to the inside and outside of the canopies. It will make the clear plastic look like real glass.
I do both–airbrushing and hand-brushing. If I get any drips or pooling–which occurs if I put too much Future on one spot at one time–I use Windex on a cotton swab to remove the excess.
I airbrush it at around 20-25 psi. I tried lower pressure and got too big of a droplet.
Cleanup was easy, I shot a little Windex through the brush, followed by water.
Agreed, though I dip my canopies. I use some of those smaller plastic containers from takeout places, used for sauces, pour some Future in, dip the canopy, then place it on a piece of paper towel to wick away the excess, and cover it for at least 24 hours, to allow the acrylic to cure. I use those pint containers from the Chinese restaurants as covers.
Baron
I leave the clear parts on the trees to act as handles. The Future also lets you get a cleaner sharper cut on the clear plastic.
Sounds like a plan, one more question though. Does it have to be Future brand or will most any floor polish work?
Thanks
Another easy way to do canopies is just dip them in a Dixie cup of future… rest on a napkin or paper towel and cover with another cup…no dust…It will look like glass when dry…
Now that that question is answered I have this one. Ive been building for a while now and just made my first attempt at future on a canopy and started masking with the frosted scotch tape like I was instructed from a reputable source from here that is no longer here. Everything went well with the laying down of the tape and the cutting along the frame lines with a NEW # 11 Xacto blade. When attempting to peel the cut portion away it started chipping and coming off in pieces rather than one piece. Should I use NEW tape as well:???
i personally wouldnt want to mask a canopy with anything other than tamyia tape… the scotch works for me too but mainly for masking paintjobs
I’ve got plenty of that stuff. I’ll be trying that tomorrow morning. Just thought I’d try something new.
I didn’t see a reply in the thread, after greentracker98 posted his question, so I thought I’d take a stab at it.
I’ll say yes and no. That is, it’s not the brand, but it’s the composition of the liquid. Future is a clear acrylic liquid, so, if you know of another brand of clear acrylic liquid, then yes, it should work, all other things being equal. But there are other floor polishes/waxes that are based on other compounds, and they wouldn’t work in this application.