Applying decals to a spray painted surface without gloss coat - Comments?

Hi guys,

I have just completed a Leopard Tank and had sprayed it with NATO Green from a Tamiya can. I was wondering if there is any serious problem in just applying the decals straight to the painted surface without spraying it with a gloss coat cover.

I would appreciate any comments on this.

On the workbench

1/32 Academy Hornet

1/48 Hasegawa Hornet

1/32 Revell Seafire

3 Tamiya 1/16 scale figures

If it’s a flat paint, I’d gloss it for the reason that you’ll likely get some “silvering” of the clear portions of the decal, which will ruin the effect. It’s just hard to get the decals to lay down properly without it.

if its only a couple of decals it may be possible to brush on a drop of future only where the decals will go if you reall dont want to gloss the whole thing, and then just flaat coat it after.

Tamiya spray paint is a glossy laquer. I have had good results decalling right over it with no preliminary gloss coat.

You can apply decals over matte paint with no silvering, ever, if you use Micro sol or Solvaset underneath, and then over them.

The downside is you don’t have more than a few seconds to move the decals before the decals deform from moving on the friction of matte paint… Since matte paint melts a little to accept the decal, it solves some of the thickness problems and the silvering for sure (and is actually a more durable way of applying the decals, as they are melted into the paint!), but watch out for open German crosses, because the lack of color pigment means these deform after moving them more than once on application!

Gaston

In addition to what’s already been written above, a few caveats.

  • Not al decals are made equally. Some are inert to setting solutions like MicroSol.
  • If the decals are in fact responsive, the use of MicroSol (or similar) setting solutions over a flat-painted surface can cause them to dry creased/wrinkled. The decal will appear to shrivel when the setting solution is applied. As it dries, it (the decal) flattens out, but friction from the flat-painted surface may prevent it from fully flattening out. This is another reason why it’s recommended to gloss a surface before applying decals.

I have never been able to prevent silvering of decals on flat paint with decal solvent. I find the solution does not soften enough to make it conform to the microscopic roughness of flat paint. I have not used Solvaset in years, so it may work, but other brands of solvents still leave some silvering. It does depend too on how flat the paint is- some paints go down in a satin luster, and sometimes decals do not silver over them, or if they do, solvents will fix it. However, for real flats I have not been successful treating silvering with solvents.

i too will brush glosscoat on the areas where i am going to put the decals instead of spraying the entire model.

Thanks a lot gentlemen.

rookie

I do this all the time. Here’s what I do.

Dip the decal into water and then apply it to the model after wetting the area with WATER only. Set the decal in place and then wick away the excess water with a facial tissue.

Next, apply Solvaset. Let it sit on the decal for only 3-5 seconds.

Using a soft facial tissue, wet a balled-up section of the tissue, and press the wet ball of wet tissue against the decal with the Solvaset over it. This has the effect of diluting the Solvaset, thus stopping its “softening” effect, and also presses the decal into the paint.

Observe your decal, make sure it’s in the correct spot still.

Next, repeat the same step BUT THIS TIME WITH SOLVASET ON THE BALLED-UP TISSUE. Wet the tissue with Solvaset and press it into the decal. THEN repeat the step with WATER again.

Repeat these steps as necessary.

After a few steps, you should get to the point where the decal is melted into the paint. You can reduce the possibility of silvering even further by cutting them as close to the printing as possible.

In the few cases where I’ve STILL gotten a small amount of silvering-like maybe on the insides of a “4” or the curve of a “5” or other similar letter, it’s never been much of an issue to simply carefully paint over it.

I have used Solvaset over flat paint and it sometimes worked, depending on the decal. Other times I had to peel the decal away and gloss the area. I rather not risk it and just gloss the model and decal away for a trouble free session.

You can’t do it without problems,the decal won’t stick and it will silver,you must apply gloss atbleatbon the area of the decal