Anyone have an easy technique, for rescribing panel lines?

Modeling Subjects Aircraft
1

This is one of the parts of modeling aircraft that I dread (I would actually rather mask Stuka canopies instead )

I have Squadron’s scribing tool but, my lines seem to come out less than straight. I always try and take my time but, a little shake of the hand throws the line off.

Any tips you care to share?

2

Verlinden makes scribing templates that can bend to conform to curves. It also have different shapes so that you can to hatches etc. You can either tape it down or hold it tightly. It works very well.

3

Just tried my first subject for re-scribe and learned a few hard lessons along the way…

  • use a straight-edge. No matter how easy and simple it looks, if you don’t use a straight-edge the chances are you’ll mess it up.
  • someone mentioned using DYMO tape as a straight edge. I tried it and it does work very well (it’s the ‘plastic’ tape that is used in those older label-making things - almost like a thin credit card sorta material). It will curve around a fuselage quite well.
  • several light cuts works MUCH better than one or two heavy ones…
  • I had the most trouble with doing hatches and other rounded shapes. I did get a scribing template which helped quite a bit, but never really did master this part. I found that using a sewing needle in a pin vise made it a bit easier.
  • I also found that electrical tape can be used as a straight-edge. It’s no-where near as rigid as the DYMO tape, so you have to be a bit more careful. But, it will allow you to get the job done. I also liked that it was more ‘flexible’ for going around rounded corners, etc.

Good luck! It’s not easy…

Murray

4

I use a three-sided jeweler’s file, utilizing the edge rather than the tip. For cutting in straight lines it’s much more stable than any scriber.

For circles and such, I use a carbide scriber which my Dad got from work years ago. I believe you can get the same thing through MicroMark, but I’m not totally sure. Anyhoo, I use metal circle templates as a guide. I’ve got the Verlinden templates and they’re just fine, although I usually use alotta home-made templates.

Another thing I’ve used for circles is a piece of brass tubing with the end sharpened up. My technique is to press firmly and rock-n-roll the tubing until I get a bit of a circle cut into the plastic. I then finish it off with the scriber.

No matter what techniques or tools you use, you’re gonna have to fix some uh-ohs, and this usually involves sanding. To remove the dust, alotta folks use a toothpick, and I confess I used to use them as well, but it’s a bit of a PITA and takes entirely too much time. A much easier way to clean the dust out of lines and other areas of detail is to use a plastic stencil brush. I believe that fabric brushes are comparable, and you can find both in any good craft store.

Here’s a shot of the tools I use. (minus the brass tubing)

Fade to Black…

5

Here’s a few more tips;
Try a six inch steel ruler for flat surfaces, if you’re worried about it slipping even with a good grip on it, try double sided tape under it, just be sure you remove any glue residue before you paint.
For cleaning out any dust in the lines, try an old toothbush, cheap, & it won’t harm the plastic.
Make sure you mark the start & finish of your lines, pencil, fine marker pen or tape, it’s easy to go too far, oops, more filler!
And yes, several light cuts are better than one heavy one.
If you can’t get on with the squadron tool, try an OLFA ‘P’ cutter.
Pete