I’ve looked around but can’t find a thread on this, so maybe it’s a dumb question, but… is there any reason not to use CA on a whole model? Since I got back into building a few months ago, I haven’t been using plastic cement at all. Just Zap-A-Gap from start to finish (except on clear parts, of course). I like the short dry time and the fact that it seems to work on every material I’ve dealt with so far.
So, aside from possibly gluing your fingers together (which I have only done once so far) what’s the down side? Is it weaker than the average Testors plastic cement? Does it have a shorter life span? Are my models going to start falling apart a few years from now? Are there certain parts that I should use something else on? And, for that matter, is Zap-A-Gap much different from Loctite or Krazy Glue?
I believe superglue’s main downfall, other than quick drying, is that it lacks directional strength. Any twisting or lateral movement of the two surfaces mated together can cause it to become undone.
Model cement actually melts the plastic surfaces, and forms a permanent bond.
Ah, got it. So for the models I build for myself, which will pretty much sit on a base and never be touched, I should be okay. If I were making one for my seven-year-old nephew, which I know he won’t be able to resist playing with, then maybe CA isn’t a good choice. (Although I guess another way of looking at that would be that a model glued with plastic cement will break at other random weak points in the plastic, maybe irreparably, while a model glued with CA will break on a seam and can easily be re-glued…)
Either way, I’m glad my efforts so far haven’t been wasted by using the wrong glue! I was picturing waking up one day to find that the CA had given out and my models had collapsed back into piles of individual pieces. So thanks very much!
Cold will cause the bonds to become brittle and snap.
Gotta say, too–you must be one hell of a modeler to use superglue on everything. Certain pat placements are almost impossible without the drying time of regular model cement. Also, I would tell any modeler that “exclusive” use of any product would rob you of the experience of the pros-cons of different mediums and application. I guarantee you that there would be some applications and steps ofyour modeling that you would find to be easier and less frustrating by getting familiar with other types of bonding materials–all types of glues.
I definitely wouldn’t say I’m a great modeler by any stretch, but since getting back into it after 25 years I do feel like I do a much better job with CA than I used to with the old tubes of Testors cement. You make a very good point, though – there have been several times when I have been so frustrated during gluing that I had to step away for a while, simmer down, and re-think things. I just figured that was part of modeling, but maybe plastic cement would help at some of those times. Not like it’s a big investment – I’ll pick some up this week, just to have on hand. Thanks!
Get one of the liquid glues and some with a bit more viscosity. I use Testor’s for both, the liquid in the glass bottle with brush and the thicker liquid in the small black plastic bottle. There are others but those will most likely be the easiest to find.
I use Zap-A-Gap for most gluing jobs, like fuselage and wing halves. I’ve tried other “off” brands of CA’s but always return to ZAG. It’s subjective opinion, but it seems superior–to me.
One thing that makes sanding it easier, is to apply it as sparingly as possible, wait no more than an hour (usually half hour is enough; and in certain cases even only ten minutes). Then begin sanding seams. The shorter time doesn’t allow it to cure too hard, and makes sanding easier. If you wait overnight, the stuff can be like concrete.
As Jack mentioned, it doesn’t have much shear strength, and I’ve found for attaching smaller parts to painted surfaces (like aircraft antennas and the superstructure assemblies for ships), white glue like Elmers works just as well.
I’m with Tarasdad and doog; choose your glue for the job at hand and don’t limit yourself to any one kind. I still use Testors tube glue and various liquid types for certain jobs, since they afford more time to adjust parts.
One major drawback to ZAG is it’s quick “gripping” time. It doesn’t give you much grace to adjust parts before it clamps them together unmovably. Even the slow-setting gel type sets too quickly sometimes.
Experiment around and see what works best for you. Good luck.
I only use CA cement for joining PE parts to plastic, as it is the only thing that will work. I don’t use it for glueing poly plastic parts as is is messy, will run and mar your surfaces, and of course, glue your fingers together quite easily.
I recommend a solvent, such as Tamiya Thin Cement, Plasti-Weld, or Tenax. I hold the parts in position and just touch a brush of solvent to the seam, and like magic, capillary action draws it into the joint and in a few seconds, it’s done nicely with no mess. I never use the stuff in tubes, as it tends to give you stringy things that will mess up the surfaces of your parts.
[dto:] I love using Tenax or Plast-I-Weld in a Touch’n Flow applicator. The stuff will melt the plastic and produce a very strong bond, often not needing any filler and very little sanding. Over time, CA can become brittle as in joining a fuselage half, which may bring back the crack.
Chuck, besides CA I also use Aleene’s Tacky White Glue on PE parts. The glue is very strong and super fast grabbing.
You’re welcome! And thanks for being open-minded about it—good to hear that you’ll try some other glues. The tube cement stuff–forget that stuff. You have to apply that in the right ration and amount to make it work well, and then it was always prone to cracking if it didn’t actually chemically bond the plastic. Try Tenax R7, or even Testor’s liquid cement, or something called “MEK”—its the ingredient in a lot of glues, like ProWeld. I guarantee you you’ll wonder how you ever did without it. :)[:P]
One trick that might help if you want a strong bond, but, still have time to align certain parts is a gel type superglue, the slower setting the better. There are three items involved in this trick, Slow CA Glue, Accelerator, and a Micro brush.
Put a tiny amount of superglue on that pesky landing gear to wing joint, with a Microbrush dipped in Accelerator laying a couple of feet away from the model. When you have that gear leg at just the right angle, put the Microbrush up close, but not touching the parts. The fumes will harden the glue instantly.
This works for bombs on a bomb rack, get the first in place perfectly, and line the rest up perfectly, gluing and setting each one up as you go. Cross-locking tweezers help with this, freeing up one hand for the Microbrush.
Anything you don’t like or think you should do over, just use debonder on that part and do it over.
I only use CA for small parts, because it is hard to get that dreaded seam-pop with your fuselage seams welded with a liquid cement, but, the pressure of sanding can sometimes pop a CA seam loose.
Wow, thanks, everyone! Just got back from my local hobby shop and picked up some Tamiya extra thin cement and some debonder and accelerator (which I have never used) for my Zap A Gap. They didn’t have any Tenax. I’ll check out that MEK too, when I can get to the hardware store. Appreciate the advice!