Are there any alternatives to the solvent based fillers that you might have tried and recommend?
I usually use Squadron green and white putty, but the warnings tell me it causes brain and nervous system damage, and might harm kindeys and liver. I have noticed it does have some potent fumes.
I also use the superglue and baking soda technique. But once again, I hear that it might cause cyanide gas to be released.
I usually work in my living room. It is a fair sized room but I find the fumes still build up when I do some putty work, so I will have to start doing work outside when the weather permits. I already glue components outside with liquid plastic cement to minimize exposure. This usually slows me down when the weather is bad.
Any putty alternatives or tips would be greatly appreciated.
depending on the size you need to fill, besides putty and CA, I use Testors clear parts glue. It dries clear and will fill small seams very nicely. But it can’t be sanded, thus the gap must not be too be big and needs to be smoothed wet.
Testors and Microweld do make nontoxic glue that has citrius smell, I let my kids use those most of the time. But they take a longer time to create a bond.
I open a window with a fan blowing out when using glue. Anything heavier than that I wear a mask meant for gas fumes My wife uses the kitchen stove vent (which is vented outside) when she uses nail polish remover (diluted Acetone) - perhaps that can be an alternative for you.
I’m not sure you will completely eliminate the fumes, but hopefully some of these ideas will minimize them for you.
I have started using a porcelain touch-up glaze called Porc-a-fix. You can find it at Home Deport or home improvment stores. Its sandable and easy to use but you have to wait a while for it to dry completely. Seems to work pretty well so far. I have read some people on here using Porc-a-fill which is made by the same company. It comes with its own applicator, but I apply it using a old brush and clean the brush with thinner. So one may be able to thin it, if some one found the need to do so.
I will give Porc-a-fix a try, it sounds like a possible alternative.
I have been using solvent based products for years and haven’t had anything happen to me yet, but I would like to find alternatives whenever possible.
I have done the open window and fan and it works okay. maybe I am just being a little overly-cautious
I am going to start glueing and filling in my new spray booth when using solvent based products as soon as I set it up, this will probably help a great deal.
heres a great deal!!! DURHAMS water putty… its in a powder form all you do is add water in a ratio… mix it with white glue and you could use it as a filler…it worked great with me! u could buy a big one for about $5
You could use a two part epoxy putty like Milliput.
It comes in various grades, white superfine is best for modeling purposes. Its usually set rock hard within an hour or two and while it is still setting is quite workable.
Its a bit more expensive than usual fillers, but it has versatility on its side and it has no fumes at all.
Just bear in mind, not all epoxy putties are created equal, stay well away from Lepage’s epoxy putty, you can’t do a thing with it.
I always save about the last 1/4 inch of Tenax from the bottom of a bottle.
then when I need filler I just add flash and/or sprue from the kit to make my own putty in the same color. (not that color matters)
the filler is made from the same plastic as the kit and sands at the same rate.
White Out/ Correction Fulid is great for filling small gaps. You just dab it on and it sands down great. Also, Games Workshop Green-Stuff putty is pretty good if you use it correctly.
Porc-A-Filler, I swear by the stuff…I’ve also started using Milliput for figures, since it’s easy to sculpt.
I’ve also used Balsa-Rite (the RC plane guys use it), but you must coat it with a clear paint prior to sanding it…as it’s very delicate. The clear coat works its way into the filler like a glaze.
There’s not too much out there that won’t have fumes. CA does give off gas, but like anything else, if you have a draft going in the room you’ll be fine.
I’ll second the Porc-A-Filler. Jeff gave this as a tip a few months back & i was skeptical but bought & tried it. About all I use these days. Great stuff, thanks again Jeff.
If the gap to fill is not Huge I use multiple layers of white glue and then when dry I lighly rub away with a damp cloth or Q-tip. if it is a small deal I just paint it on with a brush and when it just starts to dry I wet brush it to get it to smooth down. No Sanding!!!
I’ve even done that with a fairly huge gap. It was at the intersection of two parts, and one of the parts was incompletely molded. I figured it would be eaiser to fill when the two parts were together, but I also had to wait until I had painted most of the kit before I could fill.
Not wanting to use the solvent-based fillers, becaues they’d affect the paint, I used white (Elmers) glue. It took about a week fo careful filling and waiting for a layer to dry, but it worked perfectly. I painted it, applied my top coat, and now nobody can tell where I filled.
Me too, So I just picked some up today … Mike we will have to compare notes on the Porc-A-Filler
FYI - I did find it at Home depot it comes in a 2 oz. Bottle -packaged in a small Blue & White Box & here is a pic
it is kind of a long story but the short version is a friend gave/suggested that online name for me several years ago … and it has kind of stuck ever since as I have used it in several forums, games and groups online. As for the show I do enjoy it (Morimoto is the man [;)] ) Also compaired to my other single friends I am a chef I make a mean Chicken Parm. [(-D]
[C=:-)]
