I have an engine block (Fiat Mefistofele) painted with Alclad dull aluminum. I just learned that I probably can’t wash that with acrylic (Citadel nuln oil). I’m looking to get the black dirty look around bolt heads and in crevices, not terribly dirty. I’m going to try pin washing but now that looks like a doubtful sollution. I wan’t the block finished flat (dull). So I think I’ll try today (1) using some weathering pigments or (2) pinwashing just the detail areas. I guess the right way would be to gloss coat it, apply the wash and then Dullcote it. But I want to preserve the crispness of the surface detail. Any advice?
DO NOT use a solvent type wash over the Alclad unless you shoot Aquagloss or Future which are Acrylics and will act as a barrier and give you sharp and clean details around bolts etc. Let it cure for a day or so then do your wash and next day shoot flat clear.
You can use an acrylic wash over the Alclad without a problem but I find acrylic washes not to run as thin and as good as a solvent type.
Well, I tried a straight pin wash and, as expected, it disappeared as it diffused into the dull aluminum. So I heavily washed (brush) and below is the before and after. It seemed that after the wash dried it somewhat sealed the surface of the aluminum. So I flipped it over and washed twice (second photo before and after), but that was way too much effect. So I heavily washed (third pic) just the transmission of another motor and I’m pretty happy with that one.
It’s easy to make it blotchy though. So, if I’m thinking correctly, the first wash is acting as a filter and also a bit of a clear sealant. It does darken the aluminum as I would expect a filter to do. So today I might try spraying the first wash and then pin washing. I’m using Citadel nuln oil.
Well, that didn’t work. Should have known better. So now it’s on to clear coat, wash, dull coat. It’s painted with Alclad dull aluminum. I have no experience with oil washes; could I just make one with thinner and MM enamel? I also have Vallejo weathering pigments and Vallejo Matt Medium.
Option 1 Clear coat with Alclad gloss clear coat (the stinky one). Use acrylic wash or Vallejo pigments in Matt Medium. Top coat with MM flat lacquer (It’s what I have)
Option 2 Clear coat with Future or Alclad Aquagloss. Make an oil base wash with MM paint and thinner. Then I need to find flat finish acrylic to top coat. I have Vallejo Matt Acrylic Varnish and Microscale Micro Flat. (ordered Testors flat clear acrylic)
Option 3 Clear coat with Future. Get some oils and turpenoid and wash with that. Then coat with a flat in option 2.
Sorry for all this. I’m really a beginner at weathering and clearly have more inventory than experience. I like to buy things. That’s good, right? [proplr]
The positive thing about using enamel washes is that they dry faster than oils. I was using thinner from Home Depot but it doesn’t completely delute oil or enamels having a gritty texture In the mix. Testors enamel in the red can works great with both enamel and oil paints blending and producing an even thin wash.
I have painted aircraft engines with Alclad, then shoot a light coat of future. After the future dries, i’ve been using The Detailer washes and they work very well.
I’m going to be building a 1/12 motorcycle soon and I’ll be using this same technique to detail the engine.
EDIT: I learned this technique from Lawdog114, who is a poster on this forum.
Yes I have used The Detailer also but as a matter of personal preference I like my home brew better. Best thing is to experiment and see what works for you. One may end up using several methods depending on the application.
When making washes from MM enamel, does gloss behave differently than flat.
I’ve ordered a few Abteilung oils and their thinners. But I think I’ll use the MM enamels for this project as I’ve never worked with oils; even washes are new to me. Best part about this hobby is learning new stuff. [8-|]
Your mean using gloss paint as a wash? It will just be a bit shiny so shoot clear flat to tone it down.
If you mean using the wash over a gloss clear coat the wash will settle down on the details. If done over a flat coat then it will act more as a filter because the flat clear coat absorbs the wash and paint has a harder time running along details.
I mean using gloss vs. flat as the wash over a coat of Future. If I use flat as a wash over the whole piece, will there be enough flattening agent in the diluted wash to give a flat finish to the piece. (doesn’t seem like it would come out flat) Or will I still need to spray a flat coat over it? I have some pieces I’m testing on before I do the actual piece.
That sounds like synthetic thinner. Many hardware and home improvement stores sell such paint thinner, and it is junk. It has particulates in it. It has a milky appearance. However, it is usually sold in opaque containers, so you cannot see it before buying it. I now buy only stuff that says turpentine or mineral spirits. Then you know it is the real stuff.
If it says mineral spirits, that is not the bad stuff I was referring to. Just a note to everyone using enamels- be careful you know what you are buying! That synthetic stuff is junk- you cannot even use it to wash brushes. The grit stays in the brushes.
