I think Bob’s frigate has one.
Yes, oink.
I will post a picture tonight with instructions.
Bob
here is what I did:
Bob
Awesome! Good recovery!
I’m using Gorilla wood glue, good stuff, but pinning anyway as I don’t trust that glue either. It’s a great wood glue and seem sto stick well to plastic too…we’ll see.
Cool beautiful work. I see you have cables through both hauser holes. What is the second cable for? Are the two white structures the water closets?
One of the things I have been unable to find so far that is on the Model Shipway plans is something called a “stopper bill” forward of the bowsprit bits.
What are the black chains running beside the messenger rope and the anchor cables on the other side?
On the spar deck MS shows a total of four cutters, with only one mounted over the main hatch, the rest hanging on the boat davits. I will place the large cutter over the main hatch, with a smaller one inside the large one, as per Revell, with four on the davits.total 5.
I found a picture of the gun deck with a capstan, as well as the one on the spar deck. I made up a bass wood capstan for the gun deck, and used candy foil wrapper to simlate the brass around the capstan.
I had wiring for leds running through a mount pedestal, the forward one, and my precious little grand daughter pulled the wiring out of the hull…grrrrr. Force 9, you, Jose and Bill have really been a help. Thanks to you all. I know it must be a pain.
Revell took a lot of shortcuts, probably to keep costs down and must have figured no one would see the gun deck very well.
Bob
I am not familiar with that pulley thing Bob came up with, but it looks to serve it’s purpose. So my sty comment was a bit of a joke- the area up at the hause holes was called the manger, and there’s usually a partition or at least a coaming of some sort to keep the water that comes in from running all the way down the deck. On a lot of ships, it was also a decent place to keep some live animals, as it was constantly sluiced out.
Most common method I have seen is a simple post running from floor to ceiling, but that is pretty hard to do when you add one deck at a time and still need to route the cable. An alternative would be to mount the pulley to the bow.
GM: I got your joke about the sty/manger. Just went with it, since I don’t have a better name for it! “Pulley-holder-thingy” doesn’t have a very nautical feel to it.
Bob
I took a dowel and drilled out a hole in the gun deck of corresponding size , but in a snug fit, added glue (gorilla wood glue) , then set the post into the gun deck by pushing down on the spar deck. Perfect fit. I also put a dollop of glue on top of the column. Then I waited 24 hours for the glue to set, then took the spar deck out to finish the gun tackles. Don’t forget to put wax paper on top so you don’t glue the spar deck to the column. The dollop of glue conforms to the bottom of the soar deck.
I really cheated on the capstan on my Victory. I measured the height between decks, found three little wooden thread spools that were about the right length and diameter. Stained them brown, and glued them to the decks as I stacked the decks up. Funny thing, can’t even see them.
That’s a good idea! I don’t know if these will be seen or not.
The main spar deck hatch on the revell is way out of scale, too long. The Model Shipway plans are 1/96 and they are old.
[quote user=“Rick Sr”]
That’s a good idea! I don’t know if these will be seen or not.
The main spar deck hatch on the revell is way out of scale, too long. The Model Shipway plans are 1/96 and they are old. The main problem with Revell is the main hatch on the spar deck and number of 24s on the gun deck.
It would be not difficult to shorten the main hatch , the question is would it be worth it. Historically, probably yes, aesthetically probably not.
And that depends on how lazy…??>
[/quote
I can’t remember if you are using a wood deck overlay. That’ll complicate things for shortening the opening, which is really an area of no deck flanked by a pair of catwalks.
I’d guess the boat beams are too few and too small as well, Easy fix.
And last, if you really want to do something that’ll upgrade the whole thing, add camber to the deck.
That’s easy to do (LOL) if you take some brass square tubing pieces the width of the ship or a little less in 4 or 5 locations and bend it a little to have a scale 3-4" crown in the middle. Being careful to locate it where it won’t interfere with things on the gun deck like guns; glue it to the underside of your deck and clamp until it’s dry.
You mentioned that before. I added some evergreen strips on the bulwarks(/) below the gun deck, running bow to stern and ran five I beams from port to starboard with a .042 of an inch rise off of those. I drew the outline on the Ibeams and sanded at low speed with my dremel following the lines. It is barely visible but is there, hidden mostly by the spar desk.
I used the Scale Decks overlay and it’s looking pretty good as work progresses. I think I’ll leave that over sized hatch alone. ( I have another Constitution to build and will correct this on that one)
All of the gun port covers had to be adjusted with an exacto knife to fit properly into their openings.
I bought HiS gun carriages since they have an extra piece to assist in mounting the guns to the deck. With the Scale Decks overlay, it will be wood to wood, just great for Gorilla Glue.
In running through my n scale train parts box, I came across an old brass engine bell from an American 2-6-0 locomotive…perfect fot the Constitution.
Working on the gun deck, going over Model Shipway plans and they show the messenger pulley as Bob has on his build, needed a magnifying glass to pick up on it.
[quote user=“Rick Sr”]
It would be alot easier to shorten the main hatch, than to reduce te gun ports to 15!
I have three kits, one for spares, the one I’m working on and a German kit that I will build later,after using this one as a tutorial. On the German kit I will shorten the hatch. I don’t see how to eliminate the extra guns. I used Scale Decks overlay on the current build but will try to lay in a real wood deck on the German build…with the proper size hatch!
On my current build I closed the first gun ports to get to 15 guns per side.But the spacing is off compared to Model Shipway drawings.
The real problem with the Revell kit is that the spar and gun deck gunports are in the wrong place. Check the plans and look at the gunport spacing. You will find it a challenge to get the deadeyes properly (unless you use Revell’s tiny plastic parts). It is a very prominent mistake in the foremast/foredeck area. Pretty bad there - guns zig zag between the two decks and there is almost no room for 5mm deadeyes (proper size). If you are going to modify something on another ship, look into that before you start.
Bob
Hi all,
That foremost port, which still exists on the current vessel, was originally cut into the hull by Cmdr William Bainbridge after he took command of the ship from Isaac Hull. But he did not cut it as a gunport, but as a bridle port to assist when mooring or docking the ship. It could be used in a pinch as a gunport but it did not have a gun permanently installed during her active service that I know of.
I chose to model the ship from the Hull era, closing up that port, as you have.
I would be cautious in using the Model Shipways model to create a model of the ship as she appeared during her glory years in the War of 1812. The model, while beautiful and accurate, depicts her as she appears today, not her 1812 configuration. Note her raised spar deck bulwarks, her enclosed waist, the simplified 3-window stern, and her rigging. The stem and head timbers (her schnozz) is massive and the trail boards don’t have the dragon decor but instead the red white and blue shield.
I have started work on the head rails. I chose to use the Revell parts. For a while I contemplated removing the depicted tarred canvas screen and replacing it with netting but after looking at examples of models which had netting replaced I decided to stick with the canvas. Pics soon.
Jose