I am building a couple of models using decal sets I bought 30 years ago. They are prolly older than that. Even tho I am using a soft brush to slide from backing to Micro Set puddle they are falling to pieces
I am wondering if I can spray them with a layer or two of clear enamel or lacquer before soaking and sliding.
Whatcha think?
Yes, you can, but then you will need to trim carefully around each one before applying. There’s also Micro Decal Film which is designed just for this purpose and should be brushed on.
I just read a tip in an old Airfix Magazine that suggests adding a drop or two of liquid dish soap to your decal water before wetting the decal in order to prevent them from disintegrating. I’ve not tried this myself, so I suggest experimenting with a decal you’re not going to use to see if it works.
Thank you so very much. Very helpful.
Maybe.
Decal film will help if they are cracked or the pieces are big. Beyond that, if they shatter into lots of pieces, it will be hard.
I scan all decal sets when I start a build. I can’t print decals as sharp or color correct as good commercial ones. But it’s often better than nothing.
Many thanks!
I do two things with old decals. First, I scan them into my computer so I can make replacements (actually, I scan ALL decals now, in case I screw one up).
Then, for the old decals, I find a decal I will not be using- many times the part number and brand name on the sheet are actually decals themselves. If that test decal disintegrates, I coat the sheet with decal film- I just brush it on- it seems to be quite self-leveling.
Don, brilliant! Thank you so very much. One question: I assume one would have to have a pretty sophisticated scanner to capture 1/72 scale pilots’ names in white. I cannot read them without a magnifying glass. But then I’m ancient. LOL. I have one more shot at Butch Voris’s name for my Hellcat. Thanks again!
I do have a pretty good stand alone scanner, not a multi-function scanner. But, lately the scanners in the multi-function scanners are getting quite good. I typically scan at 1200 pixels per inch. You can check the specs on the multi-function printer-scanners to see how good they are. And these multi-function units are really getting cheap these days.
Also, my photo editing software has a sharpening function that I often use on homemade decals. It works fine with a little to moderate sharpening, though sharpening can be overdone.
Those probably won’t scan so well. Also most printers cannot print white.
With a little software, the name could be set in white using a font that looks right, against a dark blue background. Then print on white paper.
bill
Thank you, Bill!
Thanks, Don. Just sat down to jot off a follow up question to you and found your post. I have a Canoscan 9000F Mrk II. I’ll give that a try.
What mode are you scanning in an what kind of file does it produce? As a photographer I’m familiar with sharpening, etc.
Thanks again.
Dale
Space Ranger
I now understand what you were telling me and why, when you instructed me to trim around the decal very closely. LOL. Live and learn.
I recently used that Micro Decal Film on new blue and white decals i got printed for my Doctor Lykes ship. The vendor said it would help to keep the color from running - just in case. I had no problems with it and have never used it before. 2 light coats did it for me. I still have the 50 year old decals to experiment with… They took PFC and semi gloss clear coat well too - so far.
I’m afraid that in addition to not trimming closely enough I also applied too heavy a coat of the film. I have applied prolly five coats of Micro Sol over past several hours and the decal is still not conforming to the model.
I have the Canon 8800, so your scanner is a step up from mine. It should work fine. There are lots of options to try. Read the manual carefully to figure out how to use those options. If the originals are halftone, use the halftone filter. If they are silkscreened to not use the halftone filter.