I began an Accurate Minatures F3F-1 as a relaxing SOOB project. Ha. Though the kit is usual AM bliss-in-a-box, the Modeling Devils are stalking me at every turn. First, the seatbelt lept into the carpet (Why I never replaced that great big sheet of Plexiglass under my desk, chair and surrounding area is beyond me!)
That done, I pressed on. Cockpit was up to standards we’ve come to take for granted from AM kits (By the way, I know a hobby shop in Astoria Queens that has the Yak (?) fighers on skis that AM no longer produces).
But I digress. I painted instrument panel and covered the instrument glass with liquid masker called Parma, an inexpensive, outstanding product I got from art supply store. Then, I went to the decal sheet for decal “B” as in boy, which represents the instruments. Lo and behod, unless my eyes have deceived me, this very necessary decal is not on the sheet. Or any other sheet. There is supposed to be TWO different panel decals in addition to the two indiviual insruments mounted on the front of the panel (and which are on the sheet). Anybody know about this? Anybody know what’s the dillyo? Are they hiding from me in plain sight? I can replace the individual instruments from the ScaleMaster instrument sheet from Monogram/Revell. They aren’t great, but what do you want for 99 cent Squadron sale prince?
As I said, I began F3F after a frustrating, work-stopping, problem with the X-1, after realizing that my frustration with the X-1 was already affecting my skills, as well as my temper with innocent bystanders. We must never forget that, even if we’re doing a build just for the shelf, or as a paid commission, we are not working on the cure for childhood leukemia. It 's only modeling, folks, and I always have to keep that in mind, never allowing it to drive me crazy and bankrupt, making our families miserable because we’re on a miserable project.
As for the X-1 problem, I addressed it in another post a few days ago, but got no replies. Although it was going along beautifully, when it came time to mount the resin and photoetched instrument paenl through the already-assembled fuselage (as per confusing instruction sheet), I got bupkus. Nothing, but nothing, worked and, before my blood pressure went any higher, I put it away until the Gods of Modeling are visited upon me with a solution.
So, Gods, can you help me?
i am sorry to hear about your troubles. i did read your problems with the x1 but have never attempted that kit so i didnt post. all i can say is take a step back and breath. the decal for the f3f is relatively easy to take care of. write or email the mfg let them know what has happened and they will help. it sounds as though your frustration is carrying over, what happened with the x1 is affecting how you are looking at the f3f. the only advice i can give that would be applicable to your situation is that you need to take a step back, look at what you are building from a different angle, take a deep breath and take it slow. you are not cursed, but like the rest of us you suffer from the defects of being human.
joe
Your’e cursed, definitely cursed. Seriously, both of my AM F3F kits came with the correct decals. Is your kit from the original run ? There was a period when AM was going through difficulties and dumped a lot of stock at bargain prices that may not have had the original issue decals. Don’t know if that’s the case here but sounds like. Try contacting the new & revived AM & maybe they can make things right. I also saw your post on the X-1, but had no words to help your dillema so I didn’t post a reply. Only advice for future builds is 4 words. Dry fit before glueing. Know that don’t help much, but best I can do.
Thanks, guys, for the encouraging words. Not dry fitting that instrument panel was pure hubris on my part. I’ve noticed that when you cross a certain line where you have more than enough experience – and are just too lazy to start scratchbuilding – but you cross this line where you get egotistical and think you can eyeball anything, and then you start breaking rules. Then I find myself breaking other fundamental rules. But folks, especially to you who are new to the hobby, those fundamentals never, ever change. And nobody ever becomes proficient enough to get around them. The best modelers, those we look up to and who are in, say, the Shep Paine category, simply make the fundamentals second nature. In other words, you gotta learn to do things like dry-fitting without even thinking.
So ends Sharkskin’s sermon for today. Now turn your hymnals to Number F-104, “And the Starfighters Came Down.”
Oh, I forgot to answer the question in all that other blather I wrote: My F3F-1 kit was purchased from Squadron in the past three or four months. The copyright dates embossed on the parts (fuselage and fuel tank) are 2000. However, the decal sheet says "Accurate Miniatures 2003. So, as we say in Brooklyn, go figga.
P.S. Does the F3F-2 kit have the same decal sheet? Seems like it could. And, lest anyone get the wrong idea, this is one fabulous model. It will make you want to go to more challenging biplanes. Can anyone imagine the magic AM could work on the P-26? Too bad the market is suddenly flooded with Peashooters. That is one fun airplane to model, and with a zillion colorful schemes to boot.
I feel ya brother modeller. I am building Monograms B-17g Fort and have had big problems… 90% me. I built this back in my hayday of modelling, and thought 15 years later having not built a model in that time; that sure I can do it no prob!! Well lets start with the seams. I used all the tricks but discovered my wife uses acetone free nail polish remover. I sat there in disbelief looking at my “fence” of white putty harden before my eye and nothing to push it down in there with. So I thought to myself “heck I’ll just sand it when it dries, no biggie”. Well…biggies. First the main parts while fit was good for monogram and I had used Tanex7, didnt line up correctly leaving a “lip” at the mating of the other surface. Can anyone tell my why god told them to make zig zagging seam on the nacells…hmmmm…hmmmm… anyone? Well I got to the point where I was giving up on it, but realized it was a model and I havent sniffed glue in 15 years, what was I expecting? So I futured the clear parts, put a few on it and liquid micro masked them and started the Alclad process. Well guess what, the Micro Mask doesn’ty wanna come off…literally. I been “scrating” it off. I ain’t using this[censored]anymore. Getting some Parafin and will be happy. But this model will come out as it comes out because that is my skill level right now, and frankly, I am pleased to have it almost done, feels good no moatter what the finished product comes out to be. I don’t have the skills for perfection yet, so I am happy and learned a great deal. Gotta Thank Swanny here, your site rescued me a few times…so Thanks.
-Jeff
Man sound like you’re having a rough go. Do what I do when a kit starts nagging me like that, go for a walk. I usually only go around the block but here lately i’ve been having to take longer and longer walks (two words- Monogram P-47D) As for a suggestion on the X-1, How visible is the instrument panel? if its not real visible, leave it out. I know this is cheating, but your health is more important than accuracy.
Sounds like you got one of the AM distress sale kits, as the original decals would have the 2000 copyright. I’ve heard others that had the same decal problem with other kits purchased during that time frame. The original release of the F3F-2 had a different decal sheet than the F3F-1, but it included both the front & rear types of IP decals.
According to the instruction sheet, I should have both front and back choices of IP decal, as you say. I guess I’ll have to go to the spares box. I only made such an issue out of it because AM’s ingenious little instrument system makes for a fine look with a minimum of work. I use PE panels more often than not, but I’ve learned that just because a part is PE or resin, it is not automatically better or more realistic than the kit part.
Which brings up yet another digressive question: does anyone have a good method for making the ball at the end of a photo etched lever? Even the thickest super glue never seems to dry round, nor can I get epoxy to the right texture. Some say dipping the lever in really thick paint and leaving to dry upside down works. How about it, my friends? If I get a good answer to this, I swear I’m going to tackle my Waldron PE throttle quadrant in 1/48. That quadrant alone must have 30 microscopic parts. If I were doing a Spit or Hurricane in 1/24, I wouldn’t consider the build without Waldron stuff on it. That quadrant looks like the inside of a pocket watch when built up, and I can’t see topping off such artistry with flat handles on the levers.
Now, how was that for deviating from the topic?
Well this is something I remember from about a decade ago…so it may sound funny. White glue. Pour some out and let it start to set and get tacky. then pick up a small amount and ball it between your thumb and first finger. When you have it balled up stick it on the handle and let it cure over night. the next day paint it the correct color.
Hope this helps ya.
-Jeff
[#ditto] on the white glue, but I do it a little different. Squeeze some out on a scrap card & let it set for a while until it starts to thicken. Use a small pointed brush & pick up a small blob on the tip, apply it to the handle & let it cure. It will dry in a small ball if done correctly.
Much thanks, gents. I’ll try the white glue. Never would’ve thought of that in a zillion years.