hi folks i know that the alcad stuff if laquer based . so you haeve to use the alcad2 lacquer thinner or can you use any other brand of laquer for the alcad paints. i hope to be doing a p47 and a p51 in chrome finish
You should be able to use any lacquer thinner with Alclad II but I don’t think you have to thin it when spraying. Just use the thinner for clean up. But don’t forget to use the right base coat before applying the Alclad II finish.
Personally I stay away from the Alclad primer. You’ll have much better luck with Krylon Gloss Black or a good lacquer based automotive primer. Follow the link for more on Alclad 2 and how to use it … http://www.swannysmodels.com/Alclad.html
Mr. Surfacer is lacquer based, how well does that work as a primer for Alclad?
Mr. Surfacer is not very glossy. That would affect the final finish of the Alclad. It might be an interesting experiment but I expect it won’t come out looking as much like bare metal as it would over a gloss finish.
I use Model Master gloss aircraft gray or gloss black enamels and have had no problems with either. The key, I think, is to mist the Alclad over and over in very light coats without waiting between coats and build it up gradually until it looks like you want it to.
If you lay down a wet coat it starts to look like silver paint instead of bare metal. If you’re patient and don’t rush it, it is pretty easy to use.
I used the Tamiya primer thinned 50% but it’s kinda rough. I sanded it with 600 and got a decent finish out of the Alclad.
What if you went with Mr. Surfacer as a primer, and then a clear gloss lacquer over that? A bizarre idea, sure, but that’s what I have on hand to work with.
You can use a clear lacquer or Future, which is recommended by Alclad, over Mr. Surfacer. Alclad is now marketing a clear gloss undercoat (they have sent me a sample, which has not arrived yet).
Here are some important matters:
- Never use lacquer thinners with Alclad2!
The metallic paints are very thin as manufacturered–almost watery. They should not need thinning at all. Alclad recommends not thinning the product, as it affects the paint forumlation.
-
If you thin Alclad2 Gloss Black Base, use Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK)!
It says right on the label that the product contains MEK. When mixed with lacquer thinner, MEK produces a clear, thick sludge. When Alclad2 Glossy Black Base is thinned with lacquer thinner, IT NEVER DRIES! Please believe me on this. The first time I ever shot Glossy Black Base I made that very mistake. Then I read the label (DUH!). Since then, I’ve had good results using the Alclad Gloss Black Base correctly. -
Use a respirator or a paint booth with a fan, or both. Nothing in paint is good for you when inhaled.
I’ve done test shots with Alclad2 Gloss Black Base, Scalecoat Locomotive Black, Tamiya rattle can Glossy Black Lacquer, Model Master Gloss Black Acryl, and Model Master Glossy Black enamel. As long as they are dried AND CURED (sniff the paint: if there’s no odor, it’s cured), it worked fine. I would recommend using a lacquer, though. You can also spray Future as a barrier coat on top of a gloss base coat to ensure the metallic won’t interact.
I have never seen an Alclad2 “Lacquer Thinner” advertized. I don’t think they manufacture one, as they recommend you not thin the paint. I have only seen their airbrush cleaner.
Just tonight I shot some Gloss Black Base on a piece of PVC pipe in preparation for a demonstration I’m doing next week. The PVC was wet sanded with progressively finer grits, starting with 400 and working up to 12000 micro mesh. The primer coat is Mr. Surfacer 1200. There were a few flaws that were filled with Mr. Surfacer 500 and let to dry overnight. Next, it was wet sanded with 2000, 2400, 6000, and 12000 grit, then rubbed with automotive rubbing compound using a damp cloth.
After washing with Simple Green, rinsing thoroughly, and drying, I shot three very light coats of Alclad2 Gloss Black Base, thinned with MEK.
I’ll rub the black out to get a smoother surface before applying several light coats of Alclad2 Chrome.
For more information on the effects of colored base coats on metallic paints, please see the Metallics Test Shots thread in the Paint and Airbrush Forum.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Bruce
Mr. Surfacer is fine as a primer but you’ll need to give it a light sand to smooth the surface.
Thanks. Would 2500 grit be okay or should I use something finer?
Is there any noticable difference in finish between bare Mr. Surfacer and Mr. Surfacer + a clear coat?
Can you use lacquer thinner to clean your airbrush after shooting Alclad through it or do you have to buy their airbrush cleaner?
2500 probably would be fine. The thing about using any acrylic as a primer layer is that if you are not very careful the Alclad will eat right through it and cause bubbling – once that happens, even just a little, you are in big trouble. Also, over time, acrylics can shrink which will cause the top layer of Alclad to crack because it becomes very brittle after it dries. I prefer to avoid the entire issue and stick with lacquer based primers only. Always follow the basic rule of paint layering; 1st any lacquer based coatings, 2nd any enamel coatings, 3rd any acrylic coatings. If you follow that simple rule you will rarely run into any trouble.
Clear gloss lacquers tend to be thicker coatings and can hide detail and fill panel lines. You should stick with as few coats of paint as possible to achieve the desired effect in order to maintain as much detail as possible.
I always use lacquer thinner to clean my airbrush after using Alclad or any enamel based paint.