Just got all caught up on this thread and have to say that although I have never built a WWI aircraft (except for a Metal Earth Fokker DR.1), you are inspiring me to try one out. I really like that Version D…a lot!!
The detail you’re putting into this build is nothing short of amazing and like you, I’ve used guitar strings for springs (tailwheel retracting mechanism) before as well and they work out great.
I think the vast majority of us have our “rookie” moments so try not to worry about that as much as the recovery efforts in getting back on track. You’re doin’ good Molly. Keep up the good work.
LOL! And that’s what happens to me every time at the end of a build. I usually end up making a physical list on paper so that I have to cross off individual tasks to keep me from rushing through it.
Drilling out the end of the exhaust pipe for more authenticity and preparing the wing struts and landing gear braces. They are thin and fragile, giving me a little anxiety about the eventual transport of the finished model, but I’ve found some interesting strategies for dealing with that in other posts here on this forum. Today, I am hoping to put finish the larger pieces enough to apply a clear coat.
A setback. The Tamiya clear lacquer (TS-13) was a bad choice. My research had told me it would be okay over acrylics, but I have bad mottling on two pieces. Gratefully, I had not yet sprayed the fuselage.
I am so disappointed, but I think this is fixable. I plan to lightly sand the two affected pieces and repaint. I will not use the lacquer spray again.
I sprayed three pieces. Two were mottled, and one was not affected.
Next time I spray a clear coat, I will be using this (actually ordering Tamiya X-22 clear) and applying it with the airbrush. I think the problem was not only that the TS-13 is lacquer but also that it is much harder for me to control the force and area of spray from a can. It came out too hard and too much.
Now I am rethinking the idea of correcting this by light sanding. I don’t think that is a good idea because I could also remove some fine detail of the wing spars. Instead, I used a q-tip and gentle cleaning with some Windex, and I think it is removing enough of the lacquer that I can probably repaint the colors without any residue unwanted textures. Lucky for me, the underside of the wing was not affected, leaving me only the upper side of two pieces to fix.
Molly, your Albatross is turning out fantastic. You interior work, especially the woodwork in the cockpit is so realistic. Your camo scheme also is turning out great too.
The TS clear is notoriously hot and can react badly with acrylics and enamels underneath it. While you CAN spray lacquers over acrylics, it often depends on the lacquer in question or how it is applied. We always suggest experimenting off your model first or to follow these rules posted in another discussion we had here on the FSM Forum:
Sounds like you’re on your way to rectifying the issue.
I wonder if it would have reacted like that if I had first used the Tamiya X-35 over the color layer. (I just want to apply a clear layer so I can move on to applying decals. I will probably apply another clear coat later - but it sure won’t be the TS-13.)
What I shoulda done… I think I probably meant to use the X-35 before the decals and the TS-13 as the final coat. Now that I have X-22 on order, I think it will be my final coat. Shoulda, woulda, coulda…Thanks for the link to the other post. I will study it.
I’m not sure Purple Power is available in the UK. Isopropyl alcohol will strip paint—the higher the percentage the more effective—and won’t affect the plastic.
Looks like you have recovered from the clear coat issue. That engine is going to be the wow factor on an overall impressive build. I also love the colorful paint scheme.
Recovering from eine kleine Katastrophe in the Flugzeug Werke this morning. A tiny piece I needed to hold the wheel in place went flying across the room. It’s gone into the black hole of the hobby room. Luckily for me, this piece is not visible in the final assembly, so I crafted a crude replica to do the job.
Whew. I kind of like these moments of terror as long as there is a solution. And I am learning from this group that there is always a solution. Or at least an alternative.
The piece I need is the mate to the one I’ve circled in red here.
The wheel assembly of the Albatross landing gear. It is remarkably fragile. That little red piece beside it are the pilot’s flares. They were glued to the fuselage but apparently fell off. I found them on my table. This pilot is going to need flares if parts continue to fall off of his plane.
