What is the best to mix acrylic paints with? Water, Thinner, what? My airbrush keeps clogging up when I attempt to paint with. I know I am supposed to get it like 2% milk but what is best to use to get that.
Thank you in advance for your help
Mark
Depends on the brand. More info please!
The paints are tamyia and my airbrush is a paasche. I use an air compressor, I have been using enamal thinner and it seems to work alright. But it seems to me there should be an easier way
Mark
Hi MArk.
You’ve been using enamel thinner with Tamiya acrylics? No wonder you’re having problems. They are fundamentally different and will not mix. Stirred (or shaken) vigorously enough, you may end up with an emulsified mix which may look uniform, but will settle out, given time, or you may end up with a sticky lump of goo which won’t mix at all.
For Tamiya acrylics, in order of preference,
- Tamiya X-20A thinner
- Isopropyl alcohol
- denatured alcohol
If using either of the alcohol options, a little acrylic retarder may be beneficial.
Personally I wouldn’t recommend water or Windex to thin Tamiya acrylic paints, though they are suitable for cleaning up afterwards.
Boy do I feel retarded. Thank you so much for the information. I will go by the local CVS or Wallgreens and pick up a couple bottles of alcohol and repaint my tank. As you can tell I am not only a retard but I am a novice but i have heart and I am determined to become as good as you guys at this. Thanks again for your time and advice.
Mark
Athens Georgia
Hi Mark,
No problem with the questions Mark, you won’t know unless you ask. [:)]
Generally I find it best to keep it simple. These options work and I think most of us who use Tamiya axrylics will use one or another of the three I have listed. You will find some who will say that lacquer thinner will work too, and indeed Tamiya does make a “lacquer” thinner which some say they have used with Tamiya acrylics. Water will work with Tamiya to an extent, but it’s not ideal and too much water will cause loss of adhesion and beading and other undesirable effects.
Not all acrylic paints are made equal, and thinners which work with some (eg. alcohol with Tamiya) won’t work with others (not compatible with Vallejo).
Phil’s set you on the right path (you’ll quickly learn to trust him), and I second the caveat about needing a retarder when using straight alcohol. It “flashes” dry very quickly without, and caused the dreaded tip dry. A bit of retarder put it back in working order. I recommend using Tamiya’s thinner, but not the little glass jars. FAR too expensive. It is available in a 250ml size which is much more reasonable. If your LHS doesn’t stock it, ask to have it ordered in. Your wallet will thank you and so with the LHS owner as you will have more money to buy kits!
I prefer to use Ethyl Alcohol 70% for Tamiya acrylics. Others have their own way.
I’ve had good luck thinning Tamiya/Gunze acrylics (the only ones I’ve used) with 91% isopropyl alcohol. If only they brushed on better.
What Phil said, with the caveat to us 90+% isopropyl. The 70% stuff sometimes causes problems because it is made by mixing 90% with local tap water. The tap water, while potable, may contain things unfriendly to acrylic polymers and some pigments.
I am thinning my paint with Tamiya’s own X20A Thinner. Works good for me!
Finescale Modeler has several articles on acrylics. They have this special issue that have a good article on acrylics as well as other articles for us beginners!:
http://www.kalmbachstore.com/fs1070501.html
//Tommie
The 90%+ Alcohol, mixed with a little retarder works just fine… I have a jar I keep mixed, about 90-95% alcohol and 5% retarder… as far as the retarder, liquitex acrylic retarder works just fine and isnt too much $$$ (one jar should last a lifetime), you can get it at most any craft store like Michaels etc… good luck and keep asking questions! God knows I’ve asked enough!