I am seeking advise from anyone else in/around my area about shooting paint. I live in Yuma, AZ and its a beautiful 118 F degrees today. I love the weather here. I seem to have a concern of my rattle can primer and airbrush paint dry 1/4 inch out of the nozzle. The model usually ends up fuzzy. Anyone else live around this area with experience of our enivroment? Thanks in advance.
I checked my favorite primer, black lacquer in a rattle can, and the label said “Use only 0°C-50°C”. (118°F ~ 48°C) You might want to wait for the cool of the day, Ripcord.
[:D]Thats first thing in the morning. [:|] It goes down hill from there. [:S] I might get lucky once. Dont get me wrong, I love the weather.
I’m in Henderson NV, 112 and 5% humidity.
Enamels (Model Master) are ok with generic mineral spirits or lighter fluid. What most agree is a good mix is the consistency of 2% milk. I thin them more than that by just a hair. For detail work I turn down the PSI. 15 - 20 PSI for base coats, under 15 for detail.
With acrylics I have had the best luck with Tamiya acrylics and their laquer thinner. The next best is Tamiya and their acrylic thinner. Again thin just a bit more and “fog” it on. My norm is 15 - 20 PSI for all uses.
Lifecolor acrylic is a mess to work with in this enviornment. I use their thinner and it is hit and miss. Single colors can be fogged on, detail work is problematic even with low pressures.
MM Acrylic is also a bit more difficult. I thin it with Windex for the base coats and single colors. Again I thin more than what’s considered the norm, and fog it on. Detail work is a PITA, I wound up using distilled water and some Windsor and Newton Flow improver. It clogged the AB every time after a few seconds.
Rattle cans I use early in the morning, in the garage, in the shade, or after sunset. I will not spray auto laquers/ laquer primers at all if the temps are over 100. MAJOR orange peel effect from the too rapid drying.
Rattle can enamels are hit and miss also. If I do get a day with 20% humidity or greater, they spray just fine in the shade. I use more “mist coats” than normal and less “wet coats” for final coverage. I cheat and let the fresh paint sit for an hour in the shade. Then I move the now nearly set paint into the sun for a bit. Can you say baked enamel finish?
My goal is to finish my third car garage as a man cave with a stand alone ac. As it is now, early spring and late fall are the only times I can use it for building.
I moved here from St. Louis where 95 degrees and 98% humidity were the norm. Talk about cultural weather shock! Back there I once watched enamel paint bead up and bounce off a car body due to humidity. I have had four years to adjust my painting to this wonderful desert climate. I too love the weather here and wouldn’t give it up.
PM for more anytime.
G
Thank you! [:D]
You didn’t say what kind of primer (acrylic-water based or solvent type) but I think basically both depend for drying on absolute humidity more than temp per se. You may need to go on dewpoint rather than- or as much- as temperature. High humidity is bad for solvent paints, not sure what the effect is on acrylics.
Very true! Humidity is more of a factor than overallheat .
Don, true acrylics are effected somewhat by humidity. Drying times are, naturally, longer.
Tamiya’s acrylics seem to spray well with their laquer thinner no matter the humidity, but get grainy and problematic with their acrylic thinner or alcohol as the level rises.
Enamels can fail to cover even a good primer coat depending on the conditions. I’ve had the finish change from orange peel to lumpy to sandy depending on the humidity.
G