Title kind of says it all. I’m leaning toward cans being a convenience issue, so I factor that into cost. Other than that, are there any significant advantages of airbrushing clear coats? What about primers?
I’m sure it’s a matter of preference.My airbrush set up is not exactly in DEFCON 3, so unless I’m going to get it out and set up for a real session, I prefer rattle cans.
For Primer, Tamiya is really hard to beat. Can results are good- it’s probably just not really economical.
I have to spray outdoors, each time I spray, there’s a huge process in setting everything up as far as AB procedures go. At least for my situation. I second the motion in Gmorrison’s comment in that a rattle can has its benefit and is easier as a set up and shutdown issue yet, it’s pricey, hence my use in Krylon/Rustoleum products. Again this is me experimenting.
As for AB, my very first airbrush was a Testors beginner AB. It’s a all plastic model with a quick change release, uses pressurized can air of which can be pricey, is a external mix, and is extremely convenient. You just throw everything away when your done except, the AB.
Check out my B-17G Build, that was sprayed with the Testors AB. It’s not something that you would do detail painting with but it definitely does a really good and decent job for prime and base coats. Or even clear coat sealing.
So there you have it, the pros and cons. AB, set up issues but economical, rattle can, easy yet can be pricy unless you look for sales like I did today.
I purchased a Krylon primer 12oz. can for $3.89.
Toshi
Thanks guys! This kind of confirms how I’m already seeing it. Always looking for different perspectives though. I’ve only used the Tamiya spray cans on models, and it definitely is hard to beat. I have a can of Mr Surfacer 1200 that I haven’t used. I’ve heard good things about it. I think Don Stauffer uses the Krylon primer. I know he uses an inexpensive non-hobby-specific big can, and he swears by it. I’ve heard that from other modelers as well - especially the car guys
I’ve only done testing with clears, and I’m starting to see them the same way I do primers - that the model-specific rattle cans are, though more costly, are effective and convenient. In addition to your remarks, GMorrison, I’ve heard a lot of good about Testor’s. I believe I have cans of all three finishes of theirs. I’m going to try them. So far, as far as Future goes, I’m getting the impression that it’s really best for protecting/enhancing clear parts, and as a decal base
I used to use spray cans for priming and applying clear coats. Nowadays I don’t bother with spray cans because airbrushing primers and clear coats:
- gives much better control.
- are more convenient (I have a spray booth).
- are more cost effective.
Control and cost are why I use my airbrush. And don’t even get me started again on the issues with Testors rattle can clear coats. Never had any of the same with airbrushed on clear coats.
I have to go with rattle cans. I only use them for clear coats and primers. In these cases I’m painting the entire model with one color so having better control isn’t an issue. The convenience far out weighs any savings. At best the savings MIGHT buy you a value meal at a typical fast food location. Zero clean up involved.
The nice thing about airbrushing is that you can vary the amount of gloss or flattening over different parts of model. If I want a super gloss or really flat finish over whole model, I often go for the convenience of rattle cans. If I want a varied effect I take the time to airbrush.
As a few of the guys mentioned, control is the main reason I don’t use rattle cans. The air brush will deliver consistent light coats every time.
Geez Mustang where are the keys to start that Mopar? That’s a beauty!
Thanks Ernie! It’s all done with Testors Ultra Gloss Clear from a rattle can. The red color is the molded color the kit came in.
Did you level it out, or did it lay down like that straight outta the can? That is smoother than a 70’s soul singer
That’s straight out of the can. You’ve just got to heat the can up and spray when there’s low humidity.
That’s incredible! I can’t believe that’s the raw plastic, and NO level??!!! Amazing!!
Thanks jetmaker. You know I was really surprised at the outcome as well. All I was trying to do was pay tribute to the first time I built it. That’s the original body after I stripped all the gloss coat and decals off of it from 30 years ago. The complete interior and body are all original parts.
Mustang that car is outta sight!
Somebody here said that they have had problems with Testors rattle cans. What kind of problems were had? I have long used dull-cote and have always thought it was the greatest thing ever.
Chris