I have started with 1/48 aircaft, would like to start some 1/32 or even 1/24. I may adventure into other modeling forms at a later stage. I use a cheap chinese double action, gravity feed internal mix .35mm AB for general use (Primers, clear coates etc). Being over 10 years old its starting to lack in performance.
I also own Iwata HP-CS which is brilliant and has become my go to AB for almost everything.
Problem
I am in need of an AB or Mini Spray Gun that can handle thicker paints, clear coats etc. My original thought was an Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS which would handle heavier paints but I dont believe it would lay sufficient paint down to obtain that great finish I’m aiming for. Then there is the Iwata RG3 .6mm which Im not sure is overkill, but Paul Budzik make a solid positive comments about?
I read Paul Budzik’s exquisite series about Spray Guns and AB but I just need some input before pulling the trigger on the investment.
I can over analyise things from time to time, and this one of those situations…
As Paul points out in his video, a high quality mini spray gun with a fan pattern is the best tool for even coverage over a large area. So, if you want the best, follow his advice.
Do you need it? I’m not convinced. A lot of modelers do very well with an inexpensive airbrush like the Paasche H. A lot depends on the skill of the user.
Damian … do not get the fan pattern RG-3 only the round pattern … If you want a fan pattern look at the Eclipse G-6, G-5, or LPH-50 (you should have a tank compressor for this one)
Not sure if you’ve seen these …
I also take issue with Don’s remark about the Paasche H. Here is a comparison of atomization from a Paasche H (Bottom) and an internal mix airbrush
… which do you think is going to give you a smoother surface finish? In comparison, the Paasche H looks like a drywall gun. That’s just an inherent problem with an airbrush that introduces paint so far out into the airstream. It has nothing to do with operator skill.
I very much appreciate your input, having viewed your site on numerous occasions and read the great reviews you have spent many hours complying.
I would prefer to stick with a single brand that I have experenice with if at all possible, being Iwata. The .5mm Iwata Eclipse HP BSC is a siphon, double action which could be the ansewer. It is similar to your suggestion in that they are both siphon AB’s with similar needle dia.
I’m going start by thanking you, as it was after looking over your site that it prompted me to get back into this hobby after years away, Thank You!
I have watched all of your videos including the two listed several times. I have also reviewed all your extensive overviews on all subject matter. You have demonstrated, after years of first class results, the best methods of obatining those outcomes.
I suppose my hesitation is in some way, is the cost outlay. Even with the lower cost ebay finds that can be found. But if I aspire to achieve high quality results, as you have created over the years, then some additional outlay is required.
With that, the RG3 would be my weapon of choice, taking into consideration my curent and recent compressor upgrade.
Thank you for taking the time to respond, even though you have already spent many, many hours in the production of your brilliant series on your site for this exact reason.
I agree with Paul that an external mix airbrush like the Paasche H has a coarser spray than an internal mix. It’s obvious when you mist it on as in his sample. But, I know from monitoring scale auto forums, that it is a favorite with many of these people. I also often reference this page by Roy Sutherland who uses nothing but an H. So, I have to believe a nice smooth finish is certainly possible.
If you look at my review of the Badger 250, you can see that even that simple device can put down a smooth coat of paint with practice.
I used the H as an example, it was not meant as a recommendation.
You can. Also, because the air orifice is further from the nozzle in an external mix airbrush, they need more air for good atomization. Whereas 10 or 15psi might be fine for an internal mix, 30 or 35 works better for an H or a Badger 350.
Here is an experiment I did back in 2011. I thought it might be of interest here.
I made a fixture to hold an airbrush 2 inches above the surface.
Then I sprayed the smallest dot of ink or food color I could on a piece of printer paper placed below it. I was attempting to come up with a better way to compare airbrushes. Here is my sample using a Paasche H with a fine nozzle.
You can, and I do thin all my acrylic and laquer paint/primers. On small parts I get a great finish (Using my Iwata HP-CS .35mm), however on larger areas I am of the belief that getting more paint down, allowing to maintain a wet edge and reduced passes would allow for a better end result.
I could try to increase the flash time of the paint by adding retarders or the like, or just purchase the right tool for the job.
Just comes down to money, and how much I need to part with.
I had a chance to put the Iwata Revolution CR to good use on my 1/48 Tamiya De Haviland Mosquito, and boy she worked a treat. Very good control, nice weight, easy to clean and layed down a nice coverage, pherhaps not as much as I would want but this is a matter of air pressure and my skill level.
Out of a rating of 5 I would give it a solid 4.
The following are some shoots taken after I finished unmasking my mossie (MRP White Primer and decanted Tamiya AS spray cans which were AB’s).
