Hey, I was cleaning my airbrush in simple green, letting the parts soak in it to get all the gunk loosened up that hardened from not using it for a few weeks. I thought I had all the pieces out and emptied the container to watch the little tiny nozle tip thing, not the one you can see, but the one that goes inside the head, go down the drain before I could grab it.
the one that is over the number 41-004
Anyone know what that is called and if I can buyem from the store.
The part #41-004 is called the nozzle, but Badger calls it the “paint tip”. The best place to find this information is the parts list in the User’s Manual that came with your airbrush.
Contact the store where you bought your airbrush, they may stock it or order it for you. The Michael’s Craft Store used to carry it too. If you cannot find this part locally, contact Badger or MidTenn Hobbies.
It’s also called the “cone”. I’d contact Badger directly as they will often provide a replacement part free of charge.
Regards, Rick
Is the Badger 155 the new replacement of your crappy badger 200?
Did you get your new airbrush back in working condition yet? What did you find out to be the best way to get Badger replacement parts? Did you check with the Badger dealer where you got the airbrush?
Did you contact Badger and get the part for free as Rick expected? This will be good information for other Badger users to know.
Gunk that hardens when you don’t use it? An airbrush shouldn’t stop working just because it isn’t used. It’s a straw, for cryin’ out loud! Clean your airbrush properly and it won’t “harden”!
You should be able to order a replacement part from Badger, or the store you bought it from, but consider sending the whole airbrush back to Badger for a tuneup. Likely they will replace the part for free. They’ll also clean out any remaining gunk.
Expecting a free part because of human error is a bit much. Expecting a free part because it broke is quite another thing. Rick only mentioned that they will often do such a thing.
I has gotten it back in working order, and as far as ‘gunk’ its just the bits of dry paint that didnt get cleaned out when I cleaned it, easier to let it soak in simple green and push water through it then to sit there with a needle cleaning it out
Ah yes, and watch a part go down the drain. Works well. Think I’ll pass…
For anyone else looking, I know that Michael’s (here in Canada!) has some replacement parts on the shelf for Badger airbrushes. (I actually picked mine up a few years back with a magical 50% coupon! [Y] )
Cleanup of the airbrush has been much easier for me since I switched to acrylics, a good soak in alcohol & a few q-tips & she’s perfectly clean.
Steven has complained about not being able to get the Badger 200 to work properly for over 2 years and received a lot of advise and help from many members. It would be nice to hear some feedback from him about those advise on cleaning the airbrush. 2008, 2009 and 2010.
I hope that he has better luck with the Badger 155.
Well on the first topic I took the advice got the adapter and it works, there is still a leak somewhere because the auto shutoff valve doenst shut off most of the time, so there is air getting out somewhere.
On the second point I ahve that issue SOMETIMES I have found a pretty good way of keeping it clean since I use acrylics, just submerge it in water and spray for a good 20 seconds or so.
I never did upgrade, I kept with what I have, though, I may just get a new one now with a michaels 50% off coupon.
You got me all confused. You have talking about Badger 200 all this time and switch to Badger 155 on this thread. How did you lose a part of an airbrush that you do not have?
[bnghead]
I didn’t I just didnt know a good way to show the part I need. The one looked closest to my model so I grabbed it instead of saying
‘you know that thing, that goes into the main body of the ab, thats under the two caps that screw together, you konw the thing, the one the needle goes throuhg’
1: Air leaks:
Get yourself a roll of teflon thread tape from the plumbing section at your local hardware store and use it on all the mating threads in your system
2: Cleaning:
I used to think I was able to keep my airbrush pretty clean. Backflush and run thinner through it till it runs clean. But not long ago, I pulled the nozzle (probably only the third time I’ve done it with this brush) and pulled a swab of tissue wet with alcohol through the bore with a loop of fishing line. It came out black as anything I’ve ever seen. Repeated with a clean swab three times before it came through clean. And up to that point, I had been using acrylics exclusively in this brush and flushing with clean alcohol.
You need to know the exact model number of your airbrush first. It is on the box/package of the airbrush.
Badger post detail information and manuals for their airbrushes on the web site. Here is the Badger 200 series. If the nozzle of your Badger 200 looks like the 155, your AB may be the 200-NH. The old style fine detail model has a very different nozzle.
You can find the exact parts number in the airbrush manual.
Steven, your Badger 180-11 is the older model made by Thomas in the US. The motor runs only when you push the airbrush trigger to start air flow. If the compressor motor runs when the airbrush is off, you have really bad leak. Do you have the right air hose for the Badger?
BTW, current model of the Cyclon-II compressors are sourced overseas according to a post by Ken. But he did not mention the name of the supplier. Anyone know who makes the Badger compressor.