the introduction part: Hi all, new to the forums and have re-started modeling relatively recently - I did lots when I was a kid, then started a millennium falcon a few years ago which I never finished but am doing so now. I’ve discovered that I can putty and create parts that break and fill gaps and all that stuff. It was quite a revelation and I’m enjoying the customization aspect of the hobby.
The actual question:
As you all may know, the Falcon is heavy on the weathering. I’ve experimented on the bottom part of it with enamels a few years ago. a layer of x over a layer of y, some dry brush of z. But I’m starting to discover new techniques but I’m not sure what to use. Sludge? Acrylic wash? Oil wash? shrug
Any definitive answer on a wash that works over enamels and looks good?
In general, washes ought to be the opposite of what the base coat of paint is… acrylic-based washes ought to go over enamels, and enamel-based washes ought to go over acrylic base-coats.
The reason is that the washes are essentially highly thinned paints. If, for example, you put an enamel wash over an enamel base-coat, there’s a chance that the thinner will eat through the base coat, ruining your paint job (Note: do NOT use lacquer thinners to thin paints for washes, since it will cut through pretty much any kind of paint).
Some use a coat of Future to buy some measure of protection, especially if they’re using like-on-like, but I find it’s easier just to switch mediums.
The sludge wash recipes I’ve seen are acrylic based, so either a sludge or acrylic wash is probably the best choice for your enamel.
Personally, and this is purely personal preference, all I ever use is an acrylic wash. No way I’m going to wait a couple of days for an oil wash to dry, nor am I going to worry about letting an enamel wash get too dry to get off. I use acrylic base paint most of the time, spray a couple of coats of Future (also acrylic) to get rid of the flat finish, and then use a wash of artist’s acrylics. Acrylic washes come off easy, dry in a couple of minutes, and if I find a spot a week later it still comes off easily.
Again, purely personal preference. Everyone needs to find what works for them and that’s what works for me.
Depends on the thinner. Mineral spirits typically won’t bother acrylic unless you really scrub it. Laquer thinner, on the other hand, will wipe acrylic out in nothing flat.
I used to be an “all enamel” guy. I would base coat and do all major painting in enamel. Then I would do a coat of water based MicroGloss which helps decals go on and makes washes behave properly. Then enamel washes and dry brushing etc. Then a coat or two of MicroFlat (also water based).
Not long ago I decided I wanted “out” of the enamel thing. Cleanup was just to much hassle, you have to be much more carefull when airbrushing etc. I was concerned about doing like-on-like work, but I did a model with the exact same “layering” as above, only with acrylics all arround, and had no trouble. Tamiya acrylics thinned with their thinner did not seem to disturb the MicroGloss.
Regardless, assuming your base paint is flat, you should do a light coat of some sort of gloss coat before washes. If not, you’ll find that capliary action “speads” the wash out from the crack or corner you are trying to line, and ends up looking like a greasy stain. You can then allways finish up with a dull/flat coat to get the right look.
right - after finishing the overall painting, coat it in gloss coat or Future floor polish (see article here: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html) once cured apply your wash of choice. Personally I use acrylic or oil. I use oil a lot now as I just like the results better. The advantage of oil is on a larger product like a 1/32 or bigger kit there is more time to work with the wash and not worry about it drying. Also you can do large sections at a time and avoid a “patchwork” type look to the wash… acrylics work well for me in areas like cockpits and such, get em on, they dry and coat over them with top coat of choice and you’re done! A lot of it will depend on your own personal choices after you’ve used them a little. If acrylics seem to leave you lacking try oils, or vice versa. I think we all had to experiment a little to find what worked well for us personally, and we all stick by what we use.
Does anyone have experience with adding "drying retarder " to acrylic paint to extend the time the paint stays wet , in other words , to buy you more time to work with the wash ?
I think Vallejo ( model color ) has such a product .
I know that similar additives are used by interior decorators when they apply special paint-techniques on walls .
Yes, I use it all the time for spraying but not for washes. It does exactly what you said, it slows down the drying time of acrylics which allows the paint more time to level out and also helps with the paint drying at the tip of the airbrush. It is available at most art supply stores under various names including Createx, Golden, and Liquitex.
OK, i did some experimenting last night. I used Tamiya X-1 Black thinned with alchohol as a wash on an unpainted part. when i tried to get the excess off, it didnt work, so i used a spot of alchohol. Now, my question is, would the alchohol upset the future??