I know that certain types of paints can’t be used over others but since there are acrylic primers and lacquer primers does it make a difference? Since its a primer isn’t it made to stick on any type of surface/paint?
You can put any type of paint over any other type of paint, as long as you’re airbrushing it and you allow sufficient time for whatever paint you’re using to fully cure before putting the next color on top of it. As for primers, I have no reason to use anything other than Tamiya Surface Primer, which is lacquer-based. Haven’t tried Stynylrez, but the Tamiya primer beats everything else that I have tried. I decant mine and thin it with MEK for airbrushing and it grabs onto the plastic with a death grip. With an airbrush, you can put it on thin enough to not lose any of the fine details on your model.
To answer your question in another thread, white primer is best under something you want painted white. In fact, many go with just the white primer and put a clearcoat of the desired sheen on top of it. White paints, for the most part, tend to be finicky about not giving you orange peel. I have found Tamiya’s acrylic white paints to lay down pretty smoothly though…even the gloss white levels out nicely.
It’s a sandable polyresin acrylic primer sealer, not to be confused with Vallejos non sanding poly acrylic primer ( different animal). Additionally it sticks very well to plastic .
I have a bottle,tried it once and liked the way it sprayed,leveled,and sanded.Just didn’t like the way it jammed my airbrush.It required a complete disassemble.
The primer I ordinarily use is a light gray. I have no problem covering it with white. I would not use a dark primer under white, though. You can do it with enough coats, but of course many coats can tend to soften fine details.
To me, the key has been to clean up immediately after the spray session, and no pauses in the session itself.
That said, I’ve pretty much taken to spray rinsing and cleaning with lacquer thinner now that I have a proper booth. That sort of defeats the purpose if one’s reason for using the product is to avoid solvent-based fumes, I guess.
Same here, clean up right away. Since I’m generally spraying in the kitchen I just go to the kitchen sink and shoot a bunch of hot water through, back flush a few times. Then the same with 91% alcohol and another rinse and flush with cool water. Done deal, no tear down. Maybe swab out the front cone with a q tip.