I have been using artist oils over Future on Tamyia acrylics to hilight panel lines. I have wanted to try an enamel wash so I mixed some Testors thinner with Testors dark grey paint plus some black paint. I had two problems. One, the Testors black paint settled out into small clunks. Two, the Testors thinner ate through the future and Tamyia to coat down to the prime coat (which was Tamyia Silveer). The panel lines are recessed!
Does anyone have any thoughts about what is going on here? Thank you!
Sounds like the Testor’s thinner attacked the acrylics… Was it Testor’s Airbrush Thinner or the regular thinner? Either way, when using Testor’s thinners, you’re better off doing a pin-wash into panel lines, letting capillary action take the color into the recesses… Tedious, but you won’t have problems with thinners attacking the finish-coats…
Another thing… Testor’s flats (in the 1/4oz square bottles) contain a lot of talc, and that’s why you got chunks… They have to be thoroughly mixed all the time, every time… Goes for Model Master Flats too…
If you wanna be safer, use Testor’s Glosscoat as the top-coat for washing over acrylics… Use Future on your floors, like you’re supposed to…
90% of my models get a coat of Testor’s Model Master enamels, followed by a shot of Glosscoat, decaled, then weathered with acrylics or oils (I always do pin-washes on recessed lines), followed by a finish coat of Testor’s Dullcoat… Then I use pastels over the Dullcoat… The Glosscoat and Dullcoat are laquers so there’s little chance of any enamel thinners attacking them…
I also do sludge-washes on armor, but it’s almost always with tempera paint… Zero chances of attacking the paint underneath with them…
Why switch from aritsts oils? The best thing in the world to work with as far as washes, filters, shading etc…Anything else is junk IMO…although there are some good pre-mixed washes out there on the market(Flory’s, Mig)…
Sounds like the Future wasn’t cured. Did you wait at lest a day or two before doing the washes? I wait at least a couple of days and have never had a problem with thinner attacking it.
Invest in a pre-mixed wash. You won’t regret it. I use one from AK Interactive that works great for pin washes. One bottle will last a long time. Oils work well but mixing them can be a pain. That’s why I switched.
I’ve tried Windsor & Newton acrylic oil paint (Payne’s Grey and Burnt Sienna) for a wash and it turned out OK, but it is very easy to remove (sometimes too much) with a damp Q-Tip or cloth. Mix with water and apply, let dry and wipe off. Once dried, it can be overcoated with a dulling finish with no apparent ill effects.
i find testors enamel thinner to be very aggressive. i let future as well as other acrylics clears to cure for a week and the testors enamel thinner ate straight through it. i only use odorless turpenoid now and it gives me zero problems. i got a bottle of the flory models promodeller wash i need to give a try.
Is it a new bottle of Future? If so, that is likely your problem. Contrary to what they say, they must have changed the formula because it no longer cures like it used to. IMO, its garbage and you should use it on your floors like Hans suggested. I’ve done away with Future and now gloss coat with Alclad’s Gloss Coat…great stuff. It smells like mineral spirits so its probably based with it, but it goes down smooth and dries rock hard in a few hours. I just started trying the Flory wash and its good (kind of sandy though?), but you may also want to try Windsor Newton “Cottman” acrylic paint. Its thinned with water and works great too. Just wipe it on, let it dry, then wipe it off with a slightly damp towel. Good Luck
That is a good observation. My Future bottle is a couple of years old and works just fine. It’s really amazing how all these old products have been ‘improved’ and cost more, yet you get less and have been watered down.[^o)]
I followed up on Joe’s comment about a change in the Future formula. Talking to Johnsons customer service, they did change the formula. There are now two Future products, one for wood floors and one for vinyl/tile floors. The one for vinyl floors is the harder of the two; but they could not compare it to the old product. The rep did mention that One Step is a harder product than Future and is also acrylic; but it comes in a spray can. There might be some potential here!
It seems to me that if we are serious about protecting all the work we put into a model we will have to shell out a few more bucks and buy a product that is meant to seal the model. I will take my 50% coupon to Michael’s for some Testor’s Gloss!
I just wish we could get this Future thing solved. I’ve heard people say they have personally talked to SC Johnson and I’ve heard both stories; that try have and have not changed the formula. Since I’ve come back to modeling in the last couple of years I’ve had some issues with hazing from blue label turpenoid and white spirit when applied in sludge washes or stumping out filters.
I bought a can of Krulon Fusion gloss coat. I tested it on a scrap model and it looks like its going to be a winner if it holds up to weathering medium.