A non-reactive matte sealer?

Normally I use Testor’s Dullcote to give my armor and sci-fi models a final, matte finish. I have found however, that sometimes Dullcote has a bad reaction to Tamiya acrylics, which I often use for weathering.

I’ve also had Dullcote react poorly w/ Archer Dry Transfers, melting them a little, but that I can live with…

Anyone know of a good matte sealer that won’t react unfavorably w/ either Testor’s enamels or Tamiya acrylics?

hi,

i like to use testors model master acryl flat clear, it dries dead flat and will not attack your finish.

tom f.

In addition to Model Master acryl flat, I’ve also used Poly Scale as well.

[D)] That’s a new one on me. [:D] I’ve been using them for 20 + years w/tamiya, mm, pollyscale and that’s never come up. [%-)] Maybe you’re not letting them dry long enough?

Oh yeah, seal the transfers with future and let dry thoroughly first.

Steve

You can actually get acrylic matte sealer at places like AC Moore’s or Michael’s. I used to have some around here somewhere, but I can’t locate it right now.

If you’re having reactivity issues, you’re probably laying it on too thick. The best way to lay on Dullcoat with several really light coats. I had frosted two or three darker painted models when I was just starting to model by trying to coat them with one thick coat. Try a couple of “dusting” coats first. I never had any issues after I started thinking in terms of light coats.

PANZERJEAGER:

Tigerman:

Thanks, guys. I’ll try those, in that order.

disastermaster:

No joke. Testor’s puts out a book called the Modeler’s Technical Guide. It’s a spiral bound book w/ a complete listing of all their products, including paint chips and color equivalencies w/ other brands, among other things.

Page 93 covers using Dullcote/Glosscote. The last thing on the page is a warning in bold print: “Should not to be used over Tamiya Acrylics.”

I wish I had your luck. [B)]

The doog:

I do, actually. However, over the course of a build, I’ll spray on several thin layers.

First, I put down the base coat of MM enamel paint. Then I’ll post shade and highlight, followed by any decals, transfers or stencils. It’s at that point that I lay down a first layer of DC.

Then I apply spot washes, accent panel lines and apply tonal filters. After that, I dry brush, and add any paint chipping or other types of wear. These are all oil based, and the first layer of DC is to protect the base coat of enamels.

After that, another layer of DC because the oil based washes and filters can give the model a slightly glossy surface, and may even give it a somewhat ‘greasy’ appearance.

That’s when I like add final weathering: Tamiya paints and pastel chalks or weathering powders. Tamiya acrylics give a nice thin and transparent ‘dusty’ look when airbrushed. They also come in colors that look right to my eye (Buff, Earth, etc.), but like I said, sometimes they react w/ the Dullcote, and come out looking kind of ‘melted’. You know how chocolate looks in sunshine? Like that.

So that’s my situation, in detail. Like I said, I’ll be trying out those MM acryl and Pollyscale clear flats. I let y’all know how it turns out.

Thanks very much-John Creed