1974 Porsche Carrera 3.0 RSR

Modeling Subjects Autos
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True enough, Samphoto, however, he said, “No,” and I intend to respect that. That said, I did a quick ask of common issues with that model and got this:

Power and Startup Failures: Users frequently report the camera failing to turn on, which is often tied to battery contact corrosion, depleted or incompatible AA-type power cells, or a corrupted SD memory card.

Lens and Zoom Malfunctions: Mechanical hitches, unexpected lens-retraction behavior, or unresponsive zoom controls can happen if debris accumulates around the extendable lens barrel or if firmware glitches occur.

SD Card & Formatting Errors: The camera can display sudden card-warning or formatting prompts, which users typically resolve by formatting cards directly inside the camera or replacing low-quality/corrupted media.

Soft-Focus / Shake at Full Zoom: At the extreme end of its 52x zoom range, achieving sharp focus is sensitive to hand movement and lighting, even with built-in optical image stabilization.

Further, these are not ‘recall’ level issues so far as I could determine. My first camera was a Kodak 110 Instamatic back in 1974. I’ve had several cameras since then and not all of them were ‘smooth’ experiences.

That said, if Kodak Support is free and they can help, then that’s the first proper step in the process. Plus, MarkJK said he was also getting some ‘free’ stuff that should provide a richer experience, so that’s always good.

THAT said, if you ever do require more non Kodak ‘support’ for your camera, I’m happy to provide that to whatever degree I may.

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I’m kind of shocked Kodak has support for an old digital camera at all, free or otherwise.

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Peter, what I did is put wire inside the tubing, then it will bend if you are slow and nice with it. Try it you will see that it works.

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Thank you, Christopher, but I finally got the camera to work and will post some wip pictures of work I’m doing to the wheels of the model. The Kodak rep was very helpful, and it was just my lack of knowledge understanding what she wanted me to do that kept me from figuring it out. The sd card she sent me was the key to making the camera work correctly. The one that came with the camera had a glitch in it.

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Okay fellas. It took a while to resize the photos smaller but here are wips of some wheels from the kit I am cutting apart and making them deeper set like the ones on the IROC Porshe’s. The last photo was too dark, and I shook the camera badly pressing the trigger. Still learming. need to see if I can reduce the size of the photos the camera is actually making so i dont have to edit them smaller.

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Good to know, thanks. My last big scratch-build project had me bending rollbars, custom exhaust and even modding the headers, not to mention the wiring and plumbing of the car, so I acquired several different sizes of lead solder. I will try that method, though, you never know when you’ll need it.

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So true, Peter. If it’s bigger tubing the solder might be just the ticket.

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In your display menu, you should be able to select the size (resolution) of your images. On my Canon, I set my images for the lowest resolution (pixel size, really). That allows me to post photos without the huge 7 Megabyte cost per image. At low resolutions I’m sending approximately .8 MB per image.

What you get with a smaller image is less time uploading AND a smaller viewable image overall. As to shaking camera, I would suggest getting a mini-tripod/stand or you could even place your camera on something like a bean bag, pillow or a multiple folded towel to have it sit relatively still and the material will help absorb the motions.

You should also be able to set your camera for a timed snap. I set mine for a 10s timer so I have time to ensure that nothing is going to shake the camera. ( With the exception of the images I uploaded for my deck tests, which was done hand held with my cutting board in my lap and an overhead lamp for illumination on maybe 1/60th a second).

Of course, unless you’re already into it, becoming a videographer or photographer isn’t your main effort – it’s the model.

Again, I’d be happy to provide any amount of tips, techniques and tricks that should work for any level of photography. Those images are fine, other than the out of focus one. That said, they’re digital, you can do as many takes as necessary to get what you’re after, delete the rest and no-one will ever know the struggle that may have gotten those nice crisp images.

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Christopher, I played some more with the camera and reduced the size of the photos to 12 megapixels from the 16 that it came with. This will allow me to post the pictures without having to make them smaller first so the websites will accept the photos. the camera also made noises whenever you did anything with it that were very loud and irritating. I muted them completely. so, I guess I’ m finally good to go with this camera and can just use it without thinking about it anymore. Thanks for your offers to help.

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Great progress @MarkJK. Looking good!. I really enjoying seeing all your custom work here. Very clever styrene work, impressive. Great job!!! Thanks again for posting the WIP pics.

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Thank you, Peter, for your interest in the build. It’s going to be a lot more fun now.

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I won’t be using the kodak camera because it decided to stop working after I changed the size of the photos to 12 megapixels. I decided to use the photo app on my android phone to download photos to my p.c. using a usb cable. Some one here mentioned that he did it that way so I will try it too but am sure that it will work. It will be a much faster way of doing it than the camera would have been even if it had not stopped working . even when I changed the camera back to 16 megapixels it still would not work .I’m really glad now that it did

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