It has been some time since I posted here. A couple years, in fact.
Back then, I had started this model. I picked it up again recently and am near finished.
It is the first time I have attempted to detail the engine and undercarriage. Turned out OK for first attempt, but some issues that I have learned from for next time.
I was finishing up with som decal and placement of some photoetched lettering “GT”,
when i lost one of the "G"s, trying to place it and messed up the paint at the same time with the glue. The “G” stuck to the tweezer and when I tried to pick it up again it popped out of the tweezer, into the unforgiving abyss of the floor.
I am going to try and find some metallic lettering to replace it, after I try to fix the paint.
These photoetched parts are very difficult to work with.
I’m with you on the photo etch. I’m getting better at working with it but there is a learning curve. Sadly decals don’t look as good as PE in my opinion. I mostly build aircraft and like PE for seat belts-if I can get them on right.
The engine detail and car look great. Love the color.
I too was having a tough time with little PE pieces. I started using a jewel setter with good results. The end is just wax and you can form it to smaller point if you wish.
My second car was a 1971 Torino 500. It was a great looikng car but they were prone to severe rust and a design problem where the back springs would rot through the trunk.
Similar problem in my 69 Mustang, and many 60’s Mustangs.
A very long time ago I had one of these as a company car. It was a pale white and was a piece of junk. Yours is far better looking than mine was but thankfully I didn’t actually own it. The right front suspension broke after hitting a large pothole in Philadelphia. Good riddence.
Nice job on all the details under the hood and on the chassis underside. I’m particularly impressed with your brake and fuel lines. Did you use super thin (< 0.4 mm) solder wire for these?
PE takes a lot of practice. I’ve gotten better by doing PE on 1/350 ship builds but it is easier on ships because one generally bonds it into place before painting. To CA glue PE emblems directly to a finished painted model car body sounds really tough - to locate and align it perfectly without slipping or moving it. I think I’ll stick to decals! Too bad there aren’t after market adhesive-backed foil emblems available like Tamiya provides in some of their car kits (the ones provided in the recent Merc 300 SL kit are amazing).
Thanks for sharing - build and post more cars here when you can! John
Thanks for the kind words John. The brake and fuel lines are very thin gauge wire, not solder. The “clamps” are thin staples that I pushed through small drilled holes and then twisted the ends together on the backside to hold the lines in place.