This is a pretty rare kit, so I didn’t think it was worth a WIP. However, I wanted to show the engine and drive train before it was too hidden by body work.
I added a few detaiks- spark plug, plug wiring, float chamber, throttle valve and throttle linkage. I have had a lot of trouble with the finish, and seems to soften with any paint or primer I try. I have alost ruined the last three pieces- may have to scratch them.
Very interesting and esoteric build What brand of paint and primer did you use?
Very nice and VERY cool. These turn of the century autos are quite the trip. They take a great deal just to get them going and then even more to keep them going. We are quite spoiled today with the turn of a key and you’re off. Not back in the day. I watched Wayne Carini run one of these in a race in GB on Chasing Classic Cars and it was an epic battle just to get the car going. Great work.
BK
There looks like some raised lettering in the back where the trunk would be, are those the auto manufacture’s part numbers? If so, very cool.
I tend to have trouble with gloss and semi gloss finishes getting tacky. I don’t use them often and don’t know if it’s the oils in my hands, what I’m thining the paint with, or if I need to prime everything first and because I don’t I end up putting the paint on too thick… Whatever the cause, it’s frustrating.
I started out with Rustoleom primer and Painters Touch paint. Turns out their primer is not compatible with the Painters Touch line. Went to trying Glosscoat. That stuff is usually bullet proof. Not to PT! I am trying Tamiya fine primer on the last coupe of parts. Doing the fenders with Tamiya fine primer.
That is an Aurora part number. I was trying to see if I could do a better job on the back. I have filed off the number so I can use either side of the part. Actually, I have not seen a company badge or logo on kit, nor any photos of real cars.
What an incredible build. As usual your work is top drawer. I’m confident you’ll work the paint question out successfully. Thanks for the pictures.
This is the second or third time I’ve heard that Painters Touch doesn’t go over Rustoleum primer well. Just as a point of information, I decant and shoot a fair amount of Painters Touch enamel and it goes over Stynylrez primer well, even with an added shot of LT in the enamel. I’m quite sure the Stynylrez would go over your old plastic well, I’ve done that too with old Entex and Minicraft kits. Just thought I’d put another alternative out there for future reference… But don’t give up on that Painters Touch, I get really nice finishes from that line, though I mostly decant then airbrush it as I can build the coats better that way. From the can it seems like a blast it and done situation…
You always find interesting and unusual builds !!
Hi Eugene!
I am Puzzled for sure! I paint just about everything with Rustoleum Pearl grey Primer. I have NOT had any issues with any other paint over this product. So-With your problem I would check and see if the product you are overcoating is to “Hot” chemically.
Some brands say enamel when they are actually a form of lacquer. This could be the basis of the problem. lacquers will soften Rust’os primers. But as long as you let them gas out between coats they seem to be fine. It sometimes takes a wee bit more than 24 hours though!
You know, to us some of those cars look even “Cute” But I bet they were anything but! Imagine running a car on Kerosene! Imagine No heater or protection from the weather. Hand cranking and adjusting spark and choke just right to get a good start!
Ah! Those were the days alright! Many a broken arm or wrist were seen in these days because of a compression kickback as they got more powerful, I mean, Man that four is strong! How would you like to try that today?
When looking at the “Power” plant on your kit(Nice job , by the way) I can’t help but remember the two cylinder hand cranked “Popping Johnny(John Deere) Tractor” we had when I was a kid. That’s also another reason they had such big flywheels.
A problem is there are three main ingredients to a paint- the color, the body/binder, and the solvent. When they say acrylic they are talking about the binder, in others they are referring to the solvent. Thus we can have both acryic lacquer and acrylic enamel. On some new paints it is very hard to find out what the chemistry is. Paints used to tell you on the container- many no longer do.
Making progress. Got the fenders all on, and the rear seat is finished, ready to put on.
The paint compatibility problems still exist on the bonnet (hood) but hoped to have it done by end of week.
It is finished There are a couple of paint blemishes I may polish out, but it is done for now. I am trying to work on a way to use my photo backdrops inside. If it works I’ll post results, otherwise I’ll do so in spring,
Came out great despite the paint struggles!
Very nice. That’s really cool.
BK